Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

91 suzuki katana (think of a 1000cc sh1tty 2WD in a tincan jimny body) - a wannabe "compact 4WD" with only rear wheel drives that doesn't even go. Body rattled like hell too. Your nana on a bike would overtake this.

95 toyota kijang (my country's favourite 1300cc people mover) - doesn't go either and rattly.

93 Lancer CE Coupe bought accident damage from a friend leaving the country. Got dents & bents in every single panel no kidding.

86 Cressida with a dying starter motor, transition car b4 finding the next Galant.

94 Galant SE Hatch, not bad, much better performer than Lancer but still not fast enough. Engine sh1ts itself after only 100,000km

Which seems to me I now realise never moved up from the cars made in 91-94 era... my current R33 is a 93 model....

'81 GJ Mitubishi Scorpian

'81 VC Commodore

'88 TJ (i think) Hilux Surf

'90 N13 Pulsar Hatch

'88 N13 Pulsar sedan (FAT18L)

'91 N13 Pulsar Sedan (CA18DET powered - NOF41R)

'96 R33 Gtst (NOZILR)

'93 S13 180sx (the born of JCKASS)

'95 R33 GTR (JCKASS)

i was told once that when i got y first turbo i would never go back... and thats what happened, cept now i have 2!

'73 VW 1.5l Beetle - Body rusted so had to get rid of it. It was a pretty cool car - heaps of character. 105km/h was the highest speed I could coax it to.

'83 KA 1.5l Laser - Had a manual choke. On a cold day if you timed accelerating and the choke properly, it felt like a turbo :). The exhaust fell off once and all the sudden it felt like it was given wings. My bro wrote that one off.

'86 N12 1.6l Pulsar - Involved in heaps of accidents. I thought it was ballsy compared to my sisters 1.5 version. Got some good 4 wheel sliding around the race course at Bathurst :)

Then I test drove an r33 skyline. As soon as the turbo kicked in, I knew I had to have one. :)

I've also driven V6 Magna (my old folks), several commies (including a supercharged calais), a datto (my bro's - had the shittiest brakes on the planet), an astra (even more ball-less than the VW), a shitty 80's magna, a forester, a celica, and a WRX (gimme a skyline any day of the week over a WRX :)).

1980 VC Commodore. Bought it with a very rooted 173 in it, ended up with a blue 202, lumpy as Crow Cam, 450 mechsec 4-barrel holley, extractors etc. It got 20l/100km, was lumpy as anything (couldn't get it to idle below about 1000rpm, cam started to come in around 3000, redline at 5500) and the cops loved it, and if I caned the crap out of it, it would *just* keep up with a stock VLT :)

Next car was the '33 in 2000, then I bought the bike in May last year. Turbos are good, but just the thought of bolting one onto the bike scares me :P

Funnily enough, i still drive most of the first non performance car I owned, which was an R31. Now pretty much everything from that car besides the chassis is in another much more modified R31 which I drive now, including the boot and windows.

First vehicle was a 20,000rpm roadbike.

my 1st was a $150 fully sick 1.3l carby holden barina (swift) 90 model complete with hail damage!

the hectik thing was that i wacked on a veilside style kit on it patched the lil bitch up

decked it out with a douf douf system ,some 16's cut the springs and put a 2.5'' exhaust on it n the final touch was a recaro seat phone holder,

on the 1/4 it would have done 30secs et but it would always provide 6 secs of madness.

sold the car for $2000 to a dealer

would have broken even after the years,

they were the good times

*memories song in backround*

beat that!!!!

Learnt to drive in a VT Holden Clubsport, First car 300ZX-Turbo second car my now R33 GTST um so never had the experience - ive worked in Mitsubishi & Toyota Dealerships so just driven there non performance cars but thats it.

Sorry :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...