Jump to content
SAU Community

Classic Skyline Register

rsx84

By rsx84,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted
Hey, Matty.

What was the reason for going to the stagea calipers and bigger discs? did the standard DR30 gear suck that badly, or was it just marginal with your power output? I'm considering a stud pattern change to the RX (to suit a proposed S3 rear end) and have access to a pair of DR30 front struts pretty cheap. If the brakes are pretty ordinary (running about 140RWHP atm) then might reconsider whether there's any benefit (running Volvo 4 spots at the front and they work ok)

Also, to fit the Bilsteins, I assume you have grafted new tubes tot he struts. Did you use the Commodore tubes, or have you used something custom? I gather the coilover hardware is bigger than the 2" sleeves that go over Datsun struts.

Cheers

Don't get me wrong - the DR30 stuff is perfectly good. The (main) problem that I had was that I couldn't get enough rear bias with the factory setup. The fronts wanted to lock up and you would spear off the road. The Commodore rears gave me enough rear bias - so much so that it enabled me to put bigger calipers on the front. The pad area of the single piston DR (front) calipers is pretty big - the Stagea stuff is just bigger again. The DR rear pads are tiny things...

I did have a problem with brake fade with the DR stuff, but again, I think it was related to the rear. They would get very hot, the pedal would go "long" and there would be a change in the the bias. That meant that you never had any real confidence in the brakes over any great distance. 15 kms was about where it would really start.

I haven't had any problems with the existing setup. Good pedal even in 40+ km stages - in fact, once they get some heat in them, they just get better.

On tar, you probably wouldn't have the bias issues that I did.

I took it to Wakefield once (on the old brakes) and gave the brakes an absolute smashing. The car pulled up consistently, every single time. Afterwards though, the rear discs were blue and the fronts had cracked...

As for my strut setup, see post #32 in this thread.

Hope this helps! :nyaanyaa:

  • Replies 169
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

GTR30
GTR30

YEAR: 1983 MODEL: HR30 GT L20 ET BODY TYPE: sedan COLOUR: Dark blue/black one off

Liz
Liz

Thought i'd finally post mine up which I'm sure you've all seen. YEAR: 1984 MODEL: DR30 BODY TYPE: Coupe COLOUR: Grey

Posted Images

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Thanks Matty - top info :(

Aah now I remember - the Hills Hoist struts :rofl: I remember reading about them.

I think that my suspension dude has some suitable tube left over from when he was contemplating a bid to supply the formula suspension for some series or another. (can't remember which it was - V8 holdens and / or fords IIRC)

Cam1 Rookie

Cam1

Posted
Posted

I've got a R30 Ti Hatch, '84 model. It's bronze with 135,000 orig kms. Full service history, orig books, I'm the 2nd owner. Four speed auto, (unfortunately). Stock as a rock except for stainless exhaust & turbo muffler, tinted windows & new speakers. Has all the fruit except for a sunroof. has anyone ever retrofitted an original one?

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
I've got a R30 Ti Hatch, '84 model. It's bronze with 135,000 orig kms. Full service history, orig books, I'm the 2nd owner. Four speed auto, (unfortunately). Stock as a rock except for stainless exhaust & turbo muffler, tinted windows & new speakers. Has all the fruit except for a sunroof. has anyone ever retrofitted an original one?

Hey Cam, I had an RMR30Ti like yours since new. Unfortunately it only did 600K before it wore out this year. Bugger. So I got an R30 to replace it. She has only done 380K so is nearly run in. At 135k, yours will last FOREVER.

Cheers and beers. Hugh.

Socko Enthusiast

Socko

Posted
Posted

Heyas :banana: Only got ours a couple of months ago and it's currently pretty standard...

YEAR: 9/9 1993

MODEL: R33 GTS-T

BODY TYPE: Coupe

COLOUR: Black

MODS: Sports tuff clutch, and cat back, and 17's that need replacing quickly! :)

ourskylineed2.th.jpg

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Heyas :) Only got ours a couple of months ago and it's currently pretty standard...

YEAR: 9/9 1993

MODEL: R33 GTS-T

BODY TYPE: Coupe

COLOUR: Black

MODS: Sports tuff clutch, and cat back, and 17's that need replacing quickly! :)

ourskylineed2.th.jpg

don't take this the wrong way but your R33 is not quite a "classic skyline" yet give it a few more years :P

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
tir31 Experienced

tir31

Posted
Posted

hey all, been a member on here for awhile but not in the classic section..

ive got 4 skylines

year 1983

model dr30 rs

body coupe

colour red

year 1989

model s3 r31 silhoette gts2 no. 183

body sedan

colour red (ofcoarse)

year 1990

model s3 r31 gxe

body wagon

colour burgendy

year 1990

model s3 r31 ti

body sedan

colour stormy glow

jon.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Shaddow Apprentice

Shaddow

Posted
Posted

YEAR: 1990

MODEL: R31 Skyline S3 RB30E

BODY TYPE: Sedan

COLOUR: Silver

MODS:

Genie Extractors, 2 inch lukey exhaust

2 inch lowered springs

Silo Interior (well most of it, I'm still missing some little trim bits)

Almost a complete stereo system (MP3 deck, splits, speakers, sub etc) once I finish installing.

I've got to say I don't really call my R31 a classic, not when I sit it next to my zed or my hot rod but hey its all perspective is it not.

And as someone said L series engines never die, they just get noiser.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
hobodeluxe Apprentice

hobodeluxe

Posted
Posted

skyline 1988 gts-x

RB25DET NEO

fmic

air filter

3" exhaust

microtech

increased boost

just over 200rwkw tho i have a print out from APC for 243.2 rwkw - which i think they have fudged cuz i dont thinkg its possible with stock turbo and injectors...

car has tein custom coils on 16" x 8.5 watanabe rims -- i love her so much :wub:

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • dyl33
      VOLK RACING GTC CENTRE CAPS

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Centre caps $250
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...