Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First thing that comes to mind is a V8 commodore or falcon... but hardly a daily driver heh.

I'm not sure if a V6 would be enough to tow a GTR. Your best bets are most likely Diesel 4wds. Good luck!

The UAS car is towed to events by a V6 (i think) VN/VR auto commodore wagon, it seems to do it ok

Otherwise, go for one of those OLD land cruisers - thats my plan, they'll pull almost anything :thumbsup:

Yeah i have an old turbo diesel pajero at the moment. but have problems towing a boat!

so i need to think of what i can use!

i think its actually illegal to tow with a commodore and falcon! but i havnt ruled them options as they are cheep as chips! and are good on fuel and the like.

my brother can source me pretty much whatever i want when it comes to cars/etc for cheep also so what may be someones 15k will be my 8-10k..

Old FJ60 Landcruisers arent too bad for legally towing that much stuff but dont expect it too be fast!

Or very nimble either as theyre freaking huge old tanks

But theyre tanks!

(But in the price range you want)

FJ40's will do it too but theyre actually sometimes more expensive than the 60's, the short wheelbase or ute ones are the go if you can find a good one for the right price, diesel and in short wheelbase or ute configuration. Theyre super tough and also super slow.

Edited by MK2

Bah! I wouldn't touch an old Cruiser.

Used to have one here for dads old business. It didn't want to pull a 1.3tonne machine (About the weight of GTR, prob less) on a car trailer. Was absolutely hopeless on hills!

Commodores can tow upto 2.2Tonne (new ones)

If you want, you can buy mine cheaply, has manual gearbox, new, heavy duty clutch (good for towing) new brakes, new tyres.

It's a VR V6 manual, and the 6 in Commodore and Falcon tow VERY well.

GQ Patrol

although they are absolutely pissweak in the legroom department.

diesel version.

petrol version is woeful on fuel economy. i'm sure fatz can attest to this.

best part about gq patrol? they have exactly the same climate control knobs etc as an r31!!!

Ive got a FJ60 cruiser petrol its thirsty very thirsty it will tow anything go anywhere tho, very reliable cant kill it... and a 84 Corona as a daily work car cheap as chips on fuel paid 100 bucks of my uncle for it, the best 100 bucks ive ever spent. You would get a decent cruiser for the 10g.

Fuel is always going too cost you a lot on anything which is good for towing or like someones said, gas could be an option. Personally I prefer diesel or just a huge petrol engine. Old X series panel vans and sedans arent too bad if they've got the 351 clevo in them, aftermarket diff, decent gearbox, they already come with a pretty strong chassis with takes readily too huge arse tow gear.

(My old Ford Landau was definately the shit for towing in style though, 4 bucket seats, aircon, 4 wheel disks power everything which was pretty novel in a 1974 vintage. Sadly I sold it)

351's are too bad if you dont molest the pedal too much, otherwise you can just sit there in summer with the aircon on and watch the fuel gauge plummet every time you give it some binking and theyre 'f**ken stupid' proof motors if you look after them.

Edited by MK2
GQ Patrol

although they are absolutely pissweak in the legroom department.

diesel version.

petrol version is woeful on fuel economy. i'm sure fatz can attest to this.

best part about gq patrol? they have exactly the same climate control knobs etc as an r31!!!

Ditto,

Go for GQ Patrol they're cheap as chips nowdays, you could pick up 1 for 2-3k (petrol verison, diesel are more than that due to demand) and spend the change on gtr or turbo it. GQ Patrol makes excellent towing machine if Petrol, go for 4.2l or find a 3l and turbo it, Diesel, 4.2l is sluggish unless it has aftermarket turbo, and one last thing, don't get 2.8td, slow pos you won't like it when towing!

2 door Ford maverick! SOLD!

same as pajero. around a 91 model, some i have found on dual fuel. or straight gas!

Seem to be rather cheep and in the price range..

now i have alot of shit to sell. anyone need an os triple plate clutch? trust dog box? arc 32 gtr air box???

Neil went falcon in about that price range and is very happy with its towing....but I couldn't lower myself to buy a local POS.

So i bought an imported POS instead, navara ute, cost about 4k, rated to tow 3 tonne came with air and power steer (both essential if you are dragging big loads everywhere). the motor isn't up to the job it is only the 2.4p really struggles on hills.

Go for an AU Falcon. What you are describing is what they are designed for. They are much better than a Commode for towing not least because they have a live rear axle. They are dead cheap because no one wants them. They are pretty economical too. 10K will get it done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...