Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys ,

for a limited time only i will be offering a 3 " custom mandrel bent stainless steel cat back exhaust ( you supply muffler of your choice ) for $550.

i now have my workshop and although i have stuff to sort out and a house to move into i also want to finally get busy and make a little money .

can use exsisting muffler if you wish as long as it is big enough and as its custom made it will be designed to sit as high as possible to avoid clearance problems.

kermit

  • Replies 353
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

got my 32 back from kermit today, had FMIC and dump pipe installed. VERY happy :)

car runs awesome, both items were installed perfectly and even though the FMIC caused some problems kermit was awesome and kept me informed with what was going on at all times, Illl be seeing him again for an intake pipe and BOV fitment :( great guy and great work !

what are screamer pipes?? i got a 4.5 inch tip on my cannon how much if i was going to get a 5 inch cannon??

ummm some mufflers are interchangable with their tips , most are not though . i would suggest a new muffler if you are that keen on a bigger tip.

kermit

ok guys ,

i now have my workshop , based in Girrawheen , behind my rental property. i will be setting up the workshop this week but i am ready immediately to carry out any work you require. i have enough stock of parts to do 5 cat back exhaust systems so if anyone wants one ( special price of $550 ) these can be started straight away and take a day to produce . My polishing set up is still a little shaky ( due to finances and xmas ) but any jobs that require polishing can be brought back and polished at a later date if the standard i provide is not to my satisfaction.

Also Cooler pipes and intake pipes can now be tackled properly.

any questions can either be directed to Pm or i can be contacted on 0422549050.

Kermit

please be aware that the workshop does have security and i live there too .

Hey Kermit,

have you considered making stainless steel Cold Air Intake boxs? There is not alot available for a BNR32 only really the ARC box. These are like 500 bucks, if i gotta pay that much i'd prefer it to be in polished stainless.

All i reaaly want is a box that fits the front corner of my GTR with a flange on the inside to mount a pod, a flange on the outside to mount the intake pipe and a pipe out the bottom to suck in cold air from outside the engine bay.

cheers

Paul

Now that's just going overboard.. want to put some LED's in there too?:/

I'd be happy with a shield but I think my setup would result in a reasonably odd shape. I may need a bit of pipe to push the pod further from the AFM or I would need a shield shaped thus "<". Having a lid on top is not essential. If you would like a guinea pig.. :laugh:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...