Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys ,

for a limited time only i will be offering a 3 " custom mandrel bent stainless steel cat back exhaust ( you supply muffler of your choice ) for $550.

i now have my workshop and although i have stuff to sort out and a house to move into i also want to finally get busy and make a little money .

can use exsisting muffler if you wish as long as it is big enough and as its custom made it will be designed to sit as high as possible to avoid clearance problems.

kermit

  • Replies 353
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

got my 32 back from kermit today, had FMIC and dump pipe installed. VERY happy :)

car runs awesome, both items were installed perfectly and even though the FMIC caused some problems kermit was awesome and kept me informed with what was going on at all times, Illl be seeing him again for an intake pipe and BOV fitment :( great guy and great work !

what are screamer pipes?? i got a 4.5 inch tip on my cannon how much if i was going to get a 5 inch cannon??

ummm some mufflers are interchangable with their tips , most are not though . i would suggest a new muffler if you are that keen on a bigger tip.

kermit

ok guys ,

i now have my workshop , based in Girrawheen , behind my rental property. i will be setting up the workshop this week but i am ready immediately to carry out any work you require. i have enough stock of parts to do 5 cat back exhaust systems so if anyone wants one ( special price of $550 ) these can be started straight away and take a day to produce . My polishing set up is still a little shaky ( due to finances and xmas ) but any jobs that require polishing can be brought back and polished at a later date if the standard i provide is not to my satisfaction.

Also Cooler pipes and intake pipes can now be tackled properly.

any questions can either be directed to Pm or i can be contacted on 0422549050.

Kermit

please be aware that the workshop does have security and i live there too .

Hey Kermit,

have you considered making stainless steel Cold Air Intake boxs? There is not alot available for a BNR32 only really the ARC box. These are like 500 bucks, if i gotta pay that much i'd prefer it to be in polished stainless.

All i reaaly want is a box that fits the front corner of my GTR with a flange on the inside to mount a pod, a flange on the outside to mount the intake pipe and a pipe out the bottom to suck in cold air from outside the engine bay.

cheers

Paul

Now that's just going overboard.. want to put some LED's in there too?:/

I'd be happy with a shield but I think my setup would result in a reasonably odd shape. I may need a bit of pipe to push the pod further from the AFM or I would need a shield shaped thus "<". Having a lid on top is not essential. If you would like a guinea pig.. :laugh:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...