Rb26 Gt-ss Turbos - When Should Boost Kick In?

[Swiper the Fox]

Just an UPDATE everyone.

It was the boost controller! Wasn't set up right. Wheeeee!!! Much more response, a whole lot smoother on boost too. Now to take it to the track again! Shame it's so damn hot at the moment.

Good stuff mate....great to hear its all sorted. Those AVC-R's are a tricky unit for some to set up....from memory a car i set-up at the SAU dyno day a while back, went from 255 to 289 kw just from a bit of a tweak on the duty cycle during a few spirited laps of Victoria rd.

Blitz dual solinoid controllers FTW!

[Beer Baron]

Maybe standard R34 GTR turbos ... there's another idea about your car I had the other day...

yeah that's a good point. the engine was built in 2002 so they would have been cheap and plentiful in japan then. it would make sense as it's very responsive, but not overly powerful. I'd be curious to see what happens at 18 or 19psi, but not game to test it out until I know for sure what they are.

[pnblight]

yeah that's a good point. the engine was built in 2002 so they would have been cheap and plentiful in japan then. it would make sense as it's very responsive, but not overly powerful. I'd be curious to see what happens at 18 or 19psi, but not game to test it out until I know for sure what they are.

It's pretty easy to pick the r34 turbos the comp housing has a A/R 0.53 marked clearly on it and should be visible even when installed.

pete

[Topaz]

I have R34 GTR turbos in my 32 (at least thats what I was told when I bought it), but I nver knew how to tell. So its easy to see the A/R 0.53 by looking at them with the filters and piping on the car?

Whats written on std 32 turbos?

[pnblight]

I have R34 GTR turbos in my 32 (at least thats what I was told when I bought it), but I nver knew how to tell. So its easy to see the A/R 0.53 by looking at them with the filters and piping on the car?

Whats written on std 32 turbos?

well when i mean easy i mean you won't have to strip the car to but a small mirror might make it alot easier and the r32/r33 will have .42 a/r marking on the comp housing the r34 is the only turbo i know of with the .53 comp housing and it is mark as such. As i got to broken ones in the shed at home off clients car.

pete

ps dont boost to 18psi as even the r34 break wheels and destroy motors (damn ceramic wheels pain in the neck)

Edited December 5, 2006 by pnblight

[R31Nismoid]

yeah, lol. it comes on fast and early and stays there. profec B II and HKS wastegate actuators to thank for that i guess. I think it's quite a good graph. it's taken me a while to get there. very meaty, and lots of area under the curve. all through optimising stock gear. the only question mark is turbos as I'm not 100% sure they are stock, but power output would suggest they are, or maybe 32N1s.

wont be 32N1's as they are shockers, less response out of them than GT-SS, you'd know about it if you had them as you wouldnt be as happy as you are.

They would come on late and not make much more power... more similar to Justins first post kinda thing if you did have 32N1's.

[Beer Baron]

thanks for the tip pete. I will check again. but I dont think mine have the AR marked on the outside. the 34N1s I've had before (and most stockies too I think) had the comp AR stamped just inside the compressor outlet

you could be right about the lag thing ash. one thing it's certainly not is laggy. has a massive area under the curve, boost comes on early it makes lots of torque

[justinfox]

Thanks for that Richard. I know there's nothing wrong with the build now as I am making power but it's the tune that's not right. I will be re-tuning again perhaps this week hopefully. Will report back ASAP.

[Beer Baron]

good man! I want to see your thing hauling arse. at least you know there is heaps to be gained with your set-up. you have all the nice gear I dream about, but I guess with any new set-up it just needs some optimising. mine took a lot of tweaking to get the curve looking way it does. yours will look the same when finished, only with much bigger kw number at the top

Because I'm bored I did a little comparison of the old average power. it's not exact, but close.

the three collumns are speed, my power, your power

80 85 60

100 155 70

120 190 120

140 225 190

160 245 245

180 260 268

me: 1160 / 6 = 193.3 average

you: 953 / 6 = 158.8 average

doing these rough average power calculations will give a good idea of how it fast it will be on the road and track.

that one is kind of flawed obviously because yours was having the EBC problem which I'd guess was killing resposne and hence average power was way down on where it's at now. once it's tuned post up the graph and we can compare again. it will help me to decide if I should move to the SS too. i'm picking your average power from 80 to 180 will be well over 200kw atw.

[Roy]

Interested to hear what was wrong with the boost controller?

[jazza08]

I remember i had oil in the boost controller lines once and it was soooo laggy, cleaned them out and it came on full boost around 1000rpm quicker!

[T04GTR]

i really am not a fan of the avcr. to bloody complicated. my greedy one with 2 knobs is sweet.

[jazza08]

E-Boost 2 is the best boost controller ive ever seen

[PhilGTR]

This thread is very helpful! I think I have found the problem to my lag issue and going to get it retuned this weekend at CRD. I believe its my boost controller's START BOOST setting being set at 0 which means my wastegate is always open?? I have a greddy profec b spec2. I know Beer baron you have one of these maybe you can shed some light on what you have urs set at? I believe this is a very simple to use boost controller and sometimes still confuses people, even the reputable guys at UAS! I'm glad i decided to read the manual

Edited December 6, 2006 by PhilGTR

[Swiper the Fox]

Interested to hear what was wrong with the boost controller?

Duty cycle setting is my bet

[Roy]

Duty setting? For the life of me i cant see how ppl get it SO wrong as to affect the response of the motor like experienced here. Im not saying anyone is right or wrong, just pointing out that its very surprising that its the settting of the EBC. Without even knowing what i was doing i got my AVCR almost spot on. After reading the manual i was able to get it spot on...and have since helped a few friends out with getting theirs to work top notch. They were all singles though so that could be the reason????

Interesting

[justinfox]

Tuning the car tomorrow (well, today as it's 1.24AM now!). Will post results guys.

[Angus Smart]

Ahh nice to hear justin good to see its sorted now!

i've been away for a month, havnt been down to brads for a month or so.

i was with beau the other night when he was painting his front bar and i took off my exhaust and took it for a drive with just front pipe on. and it made a hell of a difference to my problems i am having! which i beleive is mostly boost controler related also.

also a f**ked muffler is contributing to my car bieng a slug..

[Beer Baron]

This thread is very helpful! I think I have found the problem to my lag issue and going to get it retuned this weekend at CRD. I believe its my boost controller's START BOOST setting being set at 0 which means my wastegate is always open?? I have a greddy profec b spec2. I know Beer baron you have one of these maybe you can shed some light on what you have urs set at? I believe this is a very simple to use boost controller and sometimes still confuses people, even the reputable guys at UAS! I'm glad i decided to read the manual

Hi Phil. yep, your start boost needs to be much higher than that. it basically controlls how long the wastegate stays shut. so if you are after 1 bar I'd suggest a start boost around 0.8 bar or so should be the ticket. set warning to 1.2 bar, with boost reduction to 20% if warning is exceeded for more than 1 sec. gain and duty I cant remeber of the top of my head. but if you looks back to the last page you can see how fast it ramps onto boost, and how stable it stays once it's there. that was about 10 or 20 mins spent tuning the Profec B II.

can't wait to hear how things go for you today Justin. Where is it being tuned?

[PhilGTR]

Hi Phil. yep, your start boost needs to be much higher than that. it basically controlls how long the wastegate stays shut. so if you are after 1 bar I'd suggest a start boost around 0.8 bar or so should be the ticket. set warning to 1.2 bar, with boost reduction to 20% if warning is exceeded for more than 1 sec. gain and duty I cant remeber of the top of my head. but if you looks back to the last page you can see how fast it ramps onto boost, and how stable it stays once it's there. that was about 10 or 20 mins spent tuning the Profec B II.

can't wait to hear how things go for you today Justin. Where is it being tuned?

Thanks beer baron! i have it on 10psi at the moment and it feels much much better.