Mag86's Skyline Project

[skybt1]

did you have to use the r31 brackets or just change the bushes and keep the r30 brackets?

[Factory 5]

Well the R31 brakets have an offset bolt spacing, so i used the R30 brackets... with the fat R31 bushes.

the bushes stick out about 2 mm, but it all geta compressed down anyway.

the 2 long bolts with space rod on each end was used from the R31 too, it was shorter than the R30 item.... cant remember why i used the short ones, i banged my head pretty hard on the sump!

[skybt1]

cool, sounds like a nice easy upgrade for a bit of rigidity.

[Factory 5]

you'll notice an instant difference (well i did as everything is still stock)

[Factory 5]

got off my arse and installed the R31 rear suspension yesterday, took just under 30min!

they seem to be similar ride height and stiffness

the R31 struts look a bit shorter, but not too much

im going to try and find the spring rates of the R31s, and then the R30, to see if theres any difference

im thinking its just the struts im meant to use off the R31, not the R31 springs

also got the old 16x7's sandblasted & powdercoated gloss black

looks pretty tough!

only problem is a tiny bit of scrape on the rears, so im looking at trying to bend up the lip about 10mm.... will see how i go

[skybt1]

im guessing you're lucky and dont have to remove the rear seats, seat belts

and parcel shelf to get to the strut bolts!

[Factory 5]

nah mate, just the speaker grille covers!!! pish easy!

[Factory 5]

i think the R31 stuff i put in the rear was stuffed, like soggy and soft suspension, scraping tyres on guards all the time, ridiculous

so i put the r30 stuff back in, alot better now, sxcrapes only on big roundabouts

will be looking at putting in king lows all round, with koni internally adjustable struts, to be completed in next month or so

also looking at front brake upgrade of somesort, iv had enough of these pissy things!!!!

ive looked at VT commo calipers, welding up the mounting lugs then re-drill holes at 89.5 spacings, plus the easy looking hilux caliper mod, but they are really heavy monsters!!!!

any suggestions out there>>> apart from s13 coilovers and all that rubbish

[harvo]

Nice rims man (and car )

Make life easy mate and go the Hilux/Landcruiser calipers. I wouldn't use anything off a Holden especially brakes

There's a pair of recoed Hilux calipers on eBay at the moment, but $350's a bit steep. I got a pair for $50 in good nick but your right they are heavy bastards.

How did you go straightening out your rims?

[Factory 5]

i, leaning toward the hilux ones, its the weight that im not keenon, ive always been told that reducing un-spring weight is a great way to increase performance, so adding weight is a little backward it seems,

would be safer though thats for sure

i have been told be a z car guy that the calipers off a prado and later model toyo's are alloy instead of iron, so ight look at a 4x4 wrecker

for the rims, i was starting to sand them for re-painting and then polishing the lip, but the paint was friken hard to get off, so i got them sandblasted for $30 each, then powdercoated gloss black for $30 each, i was going to take them to a wheel place to polish the outer rim bit for the dishy look, but ran out of cash

i chucked em on and actually like the straight black look, makes the car look a but like a tuff streeter

still deciding on polishing the outers, will see...

but the overall aim was safety, as the 195s on the Ti rims were too slippery, and i nearly could NOT drive in the wet, the single spinner diff makes a mess of intersections and merging onto 80km/h main roads in peak hour an absolute mission!

so now with 225s all round, grip is infinite under normal and slightly spirited driving conditions, wet and dry

but if im being a bit of a goon they will slide if a make em, which is hardly ever....

[Factory 5]

Just a quickie...

For intercooler piping, if im chasing no more than 150kW, is there any need to go over 2 inch on the hot side (before intercooler), and 2.5 on the cold side ('cooler to throttle body)

Im just trawling through fleabay for silicone joiners, and there is a fair price difference between the sizes. I dont want to order stuff then find out its too small or too big (at $25 to $35 EACH joiner/bend its not going to be a cheap exercise) im looking at 8 connections, $25 x 8 equals.... $200 fu#$ing dollars on silicone joiners!!!!

another option is to buy an heap of stainless steel bends, cut to size at home and get welded professionally, and then only have silicone on the turbo, 2 on the'cooler, and one on the Throttle body. (4 connections)

AND finally. for dump pipes. does anyone have a simle explanation on those split dumps where the exhaust from the wastegate gets routed into the dump 20cm or so after the initial outlet>? what is the advantage (apart from wankey marketing)

i ended up scoring one on ebay, plus the 3 inch stainless front pipe to the 'cat' all for $120 delivered... will need minor mods to get in.

im on a BIG push to get it ready before the 20th DEC when i go on a roadtrip to brissy. even if its a 6psi setup, it will help with all the xmas pressies and luggage the missus is loading up!

Thats the good thing about a hatchback, i can fit 4 full size eskies in, 3 cricket bags, toolbox, fishing rods, swag... and still see over the whole lot.

rah... go to bed

Edited November 29, 2009 by MAG86

[Factory 5]

got hotplated.... thanks to some help from the guru!

[sobeksminion]

PMs sent, gents.

Hi Matty,

I know this is like a two year later thread revival so sorry bout that. But can I please have the details of the megasquirt bloke as well if you reckon he is still in business.

Cheers

Michael

[noddle]

Just a quickie...

For intercooler piping, if im chasing no more than 150kW, is there any need to go over 2 inch on the hot side (before intercooler), and 2.5 on the cold side ('cooler to throttle body)

On my 240K,

From the turbo I use a 2 to 2.5 inch right angle bend, that goes into a 2.5 inch pipe, which goes to a 2.5 right angle bend, to the intercooler,

out of the intercooler, I use a 45 degree 2.5 inch pipe, to a 90 degree 2.5 inch bend, that goes into my S bend tube, that has the BOV on it, and it then goes to the throttle body with a 2.5 to 2.25 reducer

pictures here

http://noddle.110mb.com/Turbo%20Upgrade/index.html

Nigel

Edited November 29, 2009 by noddle

[Ghostrider]

Wouldn't common sense tell you to use the equal size out as the diameter of the throttle body?

As far as inlet (from turbo compressor) goes, opening up to intercooler pipe diameter, I think would be the go. Just remember, as air cools, it becomes more dense and therefore needs more space to move at the same speed.

Cheers, D

[MrBFrederick]

got hotplated.... thanks to some help from the guru!

Where did you get 'hotplated'?

[Factory 5]

well import monster is probably your best bet.

pm me for more info

[Factory 5]

WHOAH.... I only just realised this thread is like 9 funking pages long.... and nearly 4 years old!

As for updates,

Well I have just been doing general maintenance, like replacing the heater core, heater hoses, radiator hoses.

Om on my 2nd heater core, and it is a BI7CH of a job, about 4 hours getting my near mint interior out, and then 5 getting it all back in... AND NOW it seems that this next heater core is buggered too! ( there is a white powdery residue on the copper pipe bends) and when the fan is on it stinks of coolant and the windows fog up...

Next time I'll be looking at a NEW unit to replace it, or something completely different like a converted oil cooler or similar. the copper units just arent strong enough for the rough bumpy roads here in Canberra.

Radiator has a decent size hole in it from flying road gravel.... yay for that. I have a reco'ed unit that I will be chucking in to replace it.

[Ghostrider]

Mags, your heater core problem is more likely the cockheads that had them before you didn't use coolant in the radiator, because the white powder you speak of is corrosion of the brass piping. My PNV has none of your heater core problems and it's about same age as yours and I have spare cores that don't show any of the symptoms your suggesting.

Maybe you should try taking the core, or a core to a radiator specialist before you seek a new genuine unit.

D

[Factory 5]

So in summary gotta fix the NEED list first, then comes the POWER list.

And no-joke, most of these items, nearly ALL of them have occurred in the last 3 months.... Not bad considering I have hardly had an issue with the car in the last 40,000 km I have owned it and gave it a bit of curry here and then.

To Do List:

Parts that NEED replacing:

Radiator (leaking)

lower Radiator hose (leaking)

2 leaking injectors (leaking)

o-ring around the overdrive solenoid on auto trans (leaking)

new filter screen and gasket on auto trans (leaking)

new trans cooler hoses (leaking)

new exhaust, partly for performance, partly cos it sounds like a farking steam train, and partly cos im loosing brain cells from the fumes (Leaking)

new tyres & wheel alignment (bald)

front disks machined and new pads

new rear disks and pads

new wiper inserts (smudging the windscreen)

new LHS park light globe

remove snapped bolt in head for rocker cover

new rocker cover gasket

re-gap rocker arms (tap tap tapperoo!)

new air con switch (fell to bits)

new rear window switch (fell to bits too)

fix divers door rubber seal (leaking)

clean out chrome roof trims (full of leaves and shit)

new diff mounts, super pro or similar (current items go CLUNK every time you select or deselect drive, or accelerate/decelerate)

so as you can see there are some things needing attention....

judging by the timeframe to get the car to where it is now, i guess this will take about 6 years in 'Andrew Time' to comlete.

POWER List.... f*kit. to be continued,,, (with actual progress kiddies!!!)