Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

recently bought myself a 2hp compressor, wondering what impact wrench would you use to open badly rusted high tension bolts on the exhaust.

been trying all sorts of method still won't budge...atm I'm using a 90Nm standard wrench. looking to buy about 300Nm, will that do?

the hp rating does it basically means the rate in which the compressor tank is going to be filled? the larger the faster the tank the more air compressed hence more powerfull tool can be used?

the 300Nm impact wrech I mentioned requires 2.5hp and I've got only 2.....so does it mean the the compressor will be on more frequently charging the loss air?

thanks

I would expect 300Nm will spin you the opposite direction.

I would suggest a socket and breaker bar as the safest way to do this.

Failing that, long ring spanners. Get a piece of pipe to fit over the spanner / breaker bar to increase the leverage.

LOTS of WD-40 (or similar).

  • 2 weeks later...
hi,

recently bought myself a 2hp compressor, wondering what impact wrench would you use to open badly rusted high tension bolts on the exhaust.

been trying all sorts of method still won't budge...atm I'm using a 90Nm standard wrench. looking to buy about 300Nm, will that do?

the hp rating does it basically means the rate in which the compressor tank is going to be filled? the larger the faster the tank the more air compressed hence more powerfull tool can be used?

the 300Nm impact wrech I mentioned requires 2.5hp and I've got only 2.....so does it mean the the compressor will be on more frequently charging the loss air?

thanks

You don't use rattle guns because the bolts/nuts are to tight or to hard to undo . You use them because you want to do a quick job or because you can't hold it , like a wheel nut ( wheels of the ground) or a harmonic balancer.

It will be very hard to get the rattle gun on to your exhaust nuts too. It will be very easy to snap the old exhaust studs with a small bar, if they are hard to move apply some heat on to them with the oxy, it works every time. If you don't have oxy you can use a big L.P, gas torch to get it as hot as possible or use WD40 but carefull WD40 will catch alight!!!

yeah I had a crank pulley bolt which had red (permanent locktite) on it and done up with a rattle gun, couldnt get it off no matter what, ended up getting a LP blowtorch from bunnings for $20, heated it for 15 mins and came off nice and easy.

Loctite breaks down under heat. Hence the ease... :)

Also, a rattle gun is NOT the tightest nut doer up there out!

Most 3/4" drive breaking bars can do a nut up tighter then a rattle gun.

If you can't heat it from outside, heat it from inside... ;) (RUN THE CAR!) Watch out, you might get burnt... ;)

But a good breaking bar, and turning it the correct way, will most likely get you off (You can also try tightening by a small little iddy bit before loosening...)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...