Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i need some help...

my boyfriend has a nissan skyline GTR R32...his turbo timer is broken and i am sick of sitting in the car waiting for the damn thing to cool down or whatever it is. Anyways, for his christmas present i want to buy him a new turbo timer, but i dont want to get him a crappy one....and since i know nothing about them , i thought someone on here might help me out....

Can anyone tell me what is a good one to suit his car?

:) thanks a lot in advance...!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145820-a-good-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites

hi, i need some help...

my boyfriend has a nissan skyline GTR R32...his turbo timer is broken and i am sick of sitting in the car waiting for the damn thing to cool down or whatever it is. Anyways, for his christmas present i want to buy him a new turbo timer, but i dont want to get him a crappy one....and since i know nothing about them , i thought someone on here might help me out....

Can anyone tell me what is a good one to suit his car?

:) thanks a lot in advance...!

theyre all generally the same...

I use a greddy full auto timer..

has extra features such as:

lap timer

Automatic time selector for the timer (the harder you drive it the longer it stays on)

You can preset up to 4 diff settings with each a max and a min timer value if your using the auto setting.

it also shows a digital reading of your speed

can measure 0 - 100 m times , 0 - 400 m times

and the feature i use the most haveing a big stereo is the batt. volume display in volts.

Its a cool unit and looks good.. i got mine off my mate he owns:

www.natetune.com

I paid about 130 bucks.. give him a holla :)

hope i helped...

Tell him that if he doesn't thrash the car the last 2 street corners b4 parking that he shouldn't have to wait for a turbo cool down. But if he insist on it, then as above, they r all more or less alike, some with a few more features than other like lap timers, A/F ratio(theoretical)... but all do the same job. Im running a Apexi pentype, cheap, slim, sleek n easy to hide(from the cops). HKS does a good one as well with 1/4 mile timer.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electroni...8&pageNum=1

Check out the For Sale section, should be some decently priced ones there delivered.

thanks for the quick replies guys...and he is anal about cooling them down...as he is with everything about the damn car lol. His pride and joy...but it makes buying presents easy (maybe a bit expensive tho).

I didnt realise that they were all basically similar..

oh while i'm here i have one more question...he wants a tacho thing (is that what they are called) the one where the light flashes on when he needs to change gears or something. Anyways all he wants to install is the light without the gauge is that possible? Or can you not buy and install them separate from one another?

thanks again, you have been most helpful..!

Turbo Timers just trick the car into thinking the key is left in the ignition. They just count down then disconnect the circuit (take the key out). So yes they're all the same. $80 for a apexi pen timer is about usual.. I got a $30 second hand HKS one cos I like old school stuff. You shouldn't pay more than $100 for a new one in my opinion.

It is possible to get just the light. If you're looking at something you can buy off-the-shelf then you can get a kit thingy made by a company called Pivot which is pretty cool. They do sell JUST the light so don't get confused with the shift kit, you only want the shift light.

As someone said before if your bf cools the car down properly he won't need a turbo timer - usually they're only useful at the racetrack. Similarly he shouldn't need a shift light on the street... but then again the advice above is if you/he insists... gotta get some BLING BLING somewhere.

for the shift light I would suggest Pivot shift light. they make 3 types. one is a small type one, one is a large single light. and the other has 3 little lights that go off in stage. all very high quality, and easy to use and fit. They cost between $130 and $180 from memory.

for the turbo timer, maybe go for a pivot one too so it matches? or the Greddy one is good, as are the HKS ones. Personally I'd prefer the Greddy one.

I'm sure he will love both gifts. :dry:

check them out here:

http://pivotjp.com/product/shiftlamp/ssl-m-e.html

this is the pro, very cool:

ssl-p-animation.gif

and the "M" looks like this:

ssl-m.jpg

I'd reccomend either the "M" or the "Pro" as they are the least conspicuous of the 3 types. The X is pretty big.

you guys are gems. thank you very much for your help...i thinking probably the greddy one for the turbo timer...now i just have to decide...silver or black? hmmm maybe silver to match this stereo face thing.

and i will look into the pivot shift lights. :dry::) :)

where in Australia can i buy the "M" or the "Pro" shift light? anyone know?

I believe if you hit up the nissansilvia.com forums then the distributor is on there as bt-revolution. My tip to you is always bargain too :)

I'm a sucker for girls so here's a link - http://www.bt-revolution.com/Shift%20Light.htm

Oh and look out for the idiots and "experts" on that board, they have a higher ratio than SAU.. much higher.

did you hear that ?????

you guys are gems :)

:dry:

you guys are gems. thank you very much for your help...i thinking probably the greddy one for the turbo timer...now i just have to decide...silver or black? hmmm maybe silver to match this stereo face thing.

and i will look into the pivot shift lights. :dry::) :)

yep id go the silver looks good with the black dash unless you want to hide it... i got a silver 1... greddy is a good unit and not very $.

I believe if you hit up the nissansilvia.com forums then the distributor is on there as bt-revolution. My tip to you is always bargain too :yes:

I'm a sucker for girls so here's a link - http://www.bt-revolution.com/Shift%20Light.htm

Anyone know exactly how big the M n Pro light is, thinking bout getting one myself now. Damn this site... just makes me spend $$... lol. N i assume u can wire it to a 12V source with switch n fuse instead of using the cigarette lighter. Where do u guys place the light n black box with the +/- adjustments?

Sorry Rachelle, didnt mean to hijack ur thread. Get ur bf the pivot, he'll luv u for it... :wub:

Turbo Timer…..YUK

What do you want one of those for?

They are just an easy place for someone to steal your car.

Ooooo, I have to cool the turbo down after I thrash it.

Yeh, but what about the gearbox, didn’t you thrash it at the same time?

Oooooo, better buy a gearbox timer

What about the diff, didn’t you thrash it at the same time?

Oooooo, better buy a diff timer

If you were really driving fast enough to heat up the turbo then you probably used the brakes it to stop in the driveway.

Oooooo, better buy a brake timer

Surely it makes more sense to do a lap of the block to cool the whole lot down. Not just the turbo, idling in the driveway.

:wub: cheers :yes:

theyre all generally the same...

I use a greddy full auto timer..

has extra features such as:

lap timer

Automatic time selector for the timer (the harder you drive it the longer it stays on)

You can preset up to 4 diff settings with each a max and a min timer value if your using the auto setting.

it also shows a digital reading of your speed

can measure 0 - 100 m times , 0 - 400 m times

and the feature i use the most haveing a big stereo is the batt. volume display in volts.

Its a cool unit and looks good.. i got mine off my mate he owns:

www.natetune.com

I paid about 130 bucks.. give him a holla :)

hope i helped...

I also have the greddy turbo timer (Silver) got it from Autobarn from $130.

In reply to the others mentioning about easy to steal etc, I got a pro. to wire it into the imobiliser and alarm system so if the car is broken into whilst on turbo timer the car shuts down and its imobilized.

I heard that you don't need to cool the turbos down unless you drive like a hoon constantly but I drive on the hwy to get home 110km for like an hour so I do it just for safety lets the whole car take a breather rather then just shutting down. But each to their own.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...