Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Thanks For the coments appreciate it.

The strut brace is Auto Select it's a heavy weight of the options avaliable but certinaly does the job and looks killer! I do have some other pics of it but there still on the camera will load em up later this is all i have atm.. Still a few more parts in boxes in the shed to go in next week can't wait!!!

- GoldZilla Yeah the badge really seals the deal i think, old school haha... It is unbelievable the difference the front fenders and bonnet make to the car really does make it look angry lol..

Thanks again

Kingy

IMG_2868.jpg

that red r34 is pure sex!

Thanks mate :sick:

When I got it, it was silver, stock and damaged...as it´s been hit by a tractor when the previous owner had it.

But since it was the VERY FIRST street legal german R34 GTR and by the time I bought it still the only one with registration, I wanted to make it something special :whoops:

Hey,

Thanks For the coments appreciate it.

The strut brace is Auto Select it's a heavy weight of the options avaliable but certinaly does the job and looks killer! I do have some other pics of it but there still on the camera will load em up later this is all i have atm.. Still a few more parts in boxes in the shed to go in next week can't wait!!!

- GoldZilla Yeah the badge really seals the deal i think, old school haha... It is unbelievable the difference the front fenders and bonnet make to the car really does make it look angry lol..

Thanks again

Kingy

Very sexy!

IMG_2868.jpg

Thanks dude. sizes are 17x9+22 with 255/40 all round. Lol, got too excited, just slapped them on and took pics totally forgot about tyre shine. Whole car is in need of a good wash.

Edited by john-e boi

Hey man, great work with the wheels, the offset is tough as!

only my opinion, but perhaps when you're over the bronze, maybe get them re-done in gunmetal grey or gloss black, as it will go real nice with your bonnet, spoiler stands and center section of your front bar - it will definitely set it off nicely with the white paint

great work, many of us can only dream of a set of wheels like yours for our rides =)

Edited by squareznboxez

Thanks for the comments guys. Was originally going to get them sprayed matt black. But the bronze has grown on me heaps. We'll see what happens later on I guess.

18x9.5+12..mmmm interesting lol. How much you want for them? With tyres? Condition? Might be abit too aggressive for my liking though. Just lowered my fronts abit more so tyres sits just under the car and it looks pretty good I reckon. Going to be hard to sit at that height when wheels sticks out like this unless guard work and/or heaps of camber with stretched tyres. Also 18x9.5+12 all round

18x9512allaround.jpg

Picture is from another SAU member

Edited by john-e boi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...