Jump to content
SAU Community

Gearbox / Centre Diff Problem

Stinky Rooster

By Stinky Rooster,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

My baby (S1 '97 Stagea 25X RS Four) has developed a rawther distressing noise and I am really hoping someone out there will have some ideas.

When the gearbox is under load, there is a rattle coming from the top of the gearbox/centre diff that sounds a bit like a loose bit of plastic or something, but it is coming from under the shifter console. Before anyone asks, yes I am sure it isn't just a loose bit of plastic. I had a similar sound in an old falcon once and it turned out to be the speedo drive working its way out of its retaining bush in the gearbox, but isn't the speedo in these things electronic?

The noise is only apparent when the gearbox is under any load (accelerating or maintaining constant speed) and it is getting louder everytime I drive it.

Another thing it is doing, and I don't know if this is related or not, is there is a slight "shudder" apparent at low speed and constant speeds

I have only had the car a week and a half and I am really glad I chickened out of a personal import because at least I have a warranty, but I still want to hear any opinions.

HEEEEELLLPPP!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/146839-gearbox-centre-diff-problem/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

SILLY QUESTION TIME - (HENCE THE HANDLE)

If there is no centre diff, what in the hell is the massive lump for in the floor on the passenger front side for? I just assumed it was a centre diff. Front transfer case maybe?

Also, to confirm, trans fluid should be checked with engine on and gearbox warmed up? if so, then I have the right fluid levels, but as I said, I have only had the car for a week and a half and I think I would have noticed if there was a massive leak by now.

Next question - how seperated is the gearbox and the ATTESSA system? Is there any way one could leak fluid into the pther?

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted
in the R32 (dont know about stags) theres a ATTESSA fluid container in the boot.

Yep sure does, how do I check the gear box level? Can't find a dip stick where I would expect to... :)

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted
Yep sure does, how do I check the gear box level? Can't find a dip stick where I would expect to... :laugh:

from memory i think my mech cheked it where we pour the oil in. May i suggest that you migh want to pour in a bottle of the auto transmission additive made by nulon. you will notice substantial differences. This is just an option/

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted
from memory i think my mech cheked it where we pour the oil in. May i suggest that you migh want to pour in a bottle of the auto transmission additive made by nulon. you will notice substantial differences. This is just an option/

Yudy, you have a 5 speed manual 260RS! I have an auto, they are very different...

mr manfringinsen Contributor

mr manfringinsen

Posted
Posted

My car has the shudder in the transmission at constant speed. It felt like a failing uni joint at first, (count how many there are of them under there!!). I noticed the shudder was there when sitting at the lights in D and it dissapears when in N. It can be made to dissapear by backing off and coasting. Another symptom I have is when giving the car a bootful from a 15km curve that climbs out of a gorge. If I do this on a hot day it turns the 4WD light on and goes into 2WD.

My first check was for the level of the ATTESSA system. This can be found in the back on the right hand side behind the little door. This should be checked when the ignition is on and the ATTESSA pump running and probably on level ground.

My second check was to bleed any air out of the pump and transmission. This is done via a pair of little bleed nipples when the pump is running. One is above the diff (hard to see at first but it is there). The second is just at the back of the transmission housing. There was a fair amount of air in there.

My third check was the transmission fluid level. This is done after the transmission is warmed up, in N, on level ground and idling. It is checked with the dipstick on the firewall.

None of these things have fixed the problem.

My next move is to replace the transmission fluid and filter, and replace the ATTESSA fluid by bleeding the fresh fluid through as it had muck in it.

I believe the transfer case has its own sump. I have to investigate how to refresh it's oil.

The oils to use can be found in the maintenance or parts section in this very forum.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yep sure does, how do I check the gear box level? Can't find a dip stick where I would expect to... :happy:

Dude - it is buried behind the rocker cover just slightly toward the drivers side, hard up against the firewall. It took me 10 minutes of searching before my wife came out, pointed straight at it and batted her eyelids at me....

:P

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted

just some advice about the 4wd attessa setups. the container in the boot area for the attessa is only for the pump it does not show the level of the fluid in the actual transfer case itself, to check the TF case level u need to jack car up so its level and get under and pull the filler plug out (top one of the 2), its on the very rear of the gearbox (its actually on the TF case but the tf case is on the rear of the box).

use auto tranny fluid for the transfer case, Nissan have Matic D or castrol make a new synthetic one called Transmax or something like that from memory.

oxford1327 Experienced

oxford1327

Posted
Posted
use auto tranny fluid for the transfer case, Nissan have Matic D or castrol make a new synthetic one called Transmax or something like that from memory.

would this apply to auto stageas only? or would it also be applicable in manuals???

just curious cos i am looking at doing a fluid purge right thru the car soon including brake fluid etc.

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted
would this apply to auto stageas only? or would it also be applicable in manuals???

just curious cos i am looking at doing a fluid purge right thru the car soon including brake fluid etc.

both manual and auto stageas use auto fluid in the TF case :happy: also the transfer case fluid is totally seperate to the gearbox fluid.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
  • Author
Posted
would this apply to auto stageas only? or would it also be applicable in manuals???

just curious cos i am looking at doing a fluid purge right thru the car soon including brake fluid etc.

For the love of all that is good and holy DO NOT PUT ATF FLUID IN A MANUAL GEARBOX!!!!!!

You need to put gear oil in it. There are some excellent synthetic gear oils about but if you put auto tranny fluid in a manual, you will destroy your gearbox in very short order

oxford1327 Experienced

oxford1327

Posted
Posted

i kinda figured you wouldn put atf in the manual box but was told to also use normal gear oil in the transfer too? so will hafta check this out a little further with the local skyline guru.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

sorry - mybad, I should have realised you wouldn't be that dumb. :happy:

I have had a mate that put 14 litres of engine oil in to his Mazda 626 - when asked why, he said it was because he looked down the filler hole and couldn't see the oil level so he just kept adding.

And yes, the engine did "hydraulic" and stick a con rod thru the block (chortle)

Edited by newbie101
CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted (edited)

heres a post i found when doing a search for oxford...

This may or may not be useful - straight out of the Australian delivered GTR32 owner's manual:

Recommended lubricants:

Fuel: Premium unleaded - min octane 95 RON

Engine: API SG 7.5-30 Turbo

Manual transmission: API GL-4 80W-90

Transfer case: Nissan Matic "D"

Power Steering Rack: Dexron II

Cooling System: Nissan LLC (long life coolant)

Brake and Clutch: DOT 4

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=58968&hl=

read the whole thread as plenty of knowledgable users have said use "matic D" or regular ATF fluid is fine.

this is castrols reccomendations...

Engine Castrol formula R 10/60

Gearbox Syntrans 75w/85

Transfer case Transmax Z

Front Diff Syntrax 75w/90

Rear diff SAF-XA 80W-140

4wd TRANSMAX Z

pwr steer TRANSMAX Z

Brake super response dot 4

Clutch super response dot 4

Edited by CruiseLiner
stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yudy, you have a 5 speed manual 260RS! I have an auto, they are very different...

Alex my 4wd lancruiser is an auto i tried the nulon additive on the auto gearbox and it made a HUGE difference in shifting ETC. try it you wont regret it

Also i think i posted lists of oils lubricants remmended by mobil too. Cant remember where i posted it up at though soz. Its what i wass recommended by mobil when i purchase all the oils from them.

Edited by stasis
FLYSLY Mentor

FLYSLY

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem with shuddering at constant speeds, but my car is getting serviced on thursday, and im getting my new tranny cooler fitted so the tranny fluid will be replaced so i guess ill see how i go.

But ill let you all go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...