Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

already done :)

don't forget you got a hiflow-cat and front/dump with that too :laugh:

No that was just the catback... batmbl dump cost me $400 cat cost me $300. + around 200 for fitting :)

complete exhaust cost me $1700.

Edited by CEF11E

I don't think you can purchase Ti donuts and other 45/90 degree pipes, thats why they "section" it where bends are needed, with lots of little sections cut and shut.

Rofl, i wonder if it was done like that with stainless to fool people... how awful :)

Top Secrete and others use the same technique with Ti on their engine bay piping, and just then, when looking for a picture, I noticed >> http://www.topsecretjpn.com/r34drag5.jpg

I rem that car using piping that was discolored like normal Ti at a Jp AutoSaloon.. Now it's yellow *ponders*

:laugh:

PS: Foznice - Ti is completely non-magnetic, test with a magnet for the truth....

- M

Edited by GeeTR
give me that exhaust, Rich!

hehe, no can do. :) love to help though. i'm getting a veilside tear drop titanium for my thing. that arc one i tried to buy but missed out :laugh:

where would get a titanium cat back system from and how much u looking say for r32 gtr

for a decent titanium cat back for 32 GTR it's approx $2-2.5K. i haven't seen any really good local ones. there are plenty of nice japanese ones though.

even a decent set of front pipes like these is around $1K

500x375-2005040400001-2.jpg

really? you must have got the stainless one then?

I remember rrrage got the full mild system for $700

Yep I got a full stainless system turboback. Nothing wrong with mild steel, just stainless was only around $100 extra.

It still looks like a really nice system it's worth what you paid for it.

hehe, no can do. :) love to help though. i'm getting a veilside tear drop titanium for my thing. that arc one i tried to buy but missed out :)

i do like the sectioned droopy exhausts... but a twin Ti system would be tops!

A friend of mine used to build Ti racing pushbikes (until china pushies), to look at unheated it is very similar to stainless but has a greyer/silvery hue, he welded it in a vacuum chamber with tig, he filled it with argon then sucked it all out to form a non O2 enviroment.

for a decent titanium cat back for 32 GTR it's approx $2-2.5K. i haven't seen any really good local ones. there are plenty of nice japanese ones though.

even a decent set of front pipes like these is around $1K

500x375-2005040400001-2.jpg

I assume it's all in the fabrication time and cost... Ti itself isn't that expensive as a material in such small quantities, it's the sectioning and 'lobstering' the piping that is time consuming and must be damn expensive to pay a quality welder in Japan!

I assume it's all in the fabrication time and cost... Ti itself isn't that expensive as a material in such small quantities, it's the sectioning and 'lobstering' the piping that is time consuming and must be damn expensive to pay a quality welder in Japan!

I think it depends on the workshop equipment.

Recently saw some Corvette mufflers at the local exhaust shop. They'd been replaced with an Aus built product. (To meet ADR I presume)

I could lift each muffler/pipe unit with 2 fingers and yet each one was the size of 4-4L paint tins. Pipework was very complicated and beautifully bent, not sectioned.

They weren't available for sale unfortunately.

I think it depends on the workshop equipment.

Recently saw some Corvette mufflers at the local exhaust shop. They'd been replaced with an Aus built product. (To meet ADR I presume)

I could lift each muffler/pipe unit with 2 fingers and yet each one was the size of 4-4L paint tins. Pipework was very complicated and beautifully bent, not sectioned.

They weren't available for sale unfortunately.

yep you're right - these would be a bit cheaper to make becuase they've been mandrel bent.

when you're sectioning like baron posted earlier in this thread, it is alot of labour to cut, weld, finish etc nicely.

i would love a Ti exhaust!

Please don't quote me on this, but my understanding is that you cannot bend (mandrel or otherwise) titanium pipe sections the same way you can with stainless steel for the following reasons:

It is not very ductile.

It has a low modulous of elasticity (ie it will spring back after forming)

Has a tendency to gall much more than stainless.

If you add to this the requirement for fastidious cleanliness when working with the stuff, you can see why it is so damn expensive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...