Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Merry Xmas SAU’ers!!

I was going to post this in the normal sections though didn’t think I would receive the best advice with a thread involving steering wheels and racing seats 

I’m 186cm,85kg,52cm shoulder width and realized today the stock seats in my BNR32 ARE causing me shoulder issues, and will undoubtedly get worse as I grow.

Issues:

- Wings on seat too narrow, and hunch my shoulders forward

- Not enough lumber support ( normal wear)

- At a length where knees don’t bump the under dash every heel toe, my arms are too far away from the steering wheel

- Together as the driver, if the above were all right; feel too high, with my head 10mm from the roof lining

I really like the std seats, with the fabric ultra grippy, so you almost slide out of your pants, like Evo’s, and assume I can stick harness straps through the upper slots.

I thought of having them rebolstered but I don’t know how much they could “open” up the wings.

I guess my question has a few parts. Im looking for people who don’t comply to “Census measurements of the average JapLand driver” and what seats you use, or have had experience with.

Also, the steering wheel, even full reach adjustment is maybe 2” too far. I was going to use a longer boss, that would bring a aftermarket wheel closer. Again the std steering wheel is the right shape and size, but is very slippery when your hands get a bit wet. I was looking at OMP wheel, though know I need a boss with the right adaptor for the S.wheel angle sensor. Does the manufacturer of the wheel need to make the right boss for a Skyline, or can you buy a generic unit, then fit any generic OEM wheel?

Any assistance, views, opinions wot eva appreciated!

- M

I hated the stock GTR seats, and when I had to remove the drivers to weld it back together realised what a cheap piece of factory junk it is.

I replaced with Recaros and Recaro rails - in a word - Fantabulicious!! Stiff and the right shape for someone with shoulders. Paid $1K 2nd hand in awesome nick and got $1100 for the factory puss.

I also have a MOMO race wheel which is a bit too close to the indicator and wiper controls on the boss, so bought an adjustable extender, a bit like a shock platform adjuster, and now the wheel is close to me for more comfortable driving and the indicators are well out of the way, plus the pedals are adjusted for heel and toe so it's almost perfect.

really??....

i quite enjoy the factory gtr seats

so comfortable and hold me perfectly

but at the same time im a fairly small build kinda guy

hey GeeTR if you do get rid of your stockers

tell me i may buy one off ya i wanna make an office chair out of it

RellikZephyr

I wouldn't call the factory seats uncomfortable... I even had a passenger with me driving 2 hours, do motokanas all day with me and drive home comment at how surprisingly comfortable the seats are, and he drives a falcon everyday.

I think they are a good trade off between a race seat and comfort. But i am talking about the R33 GTR, haven't spent much time in the r32 GTR seats.

But if your taking your motorsport serious, which sounds like you are, you probably do need to upgrade to a proper racing seat, and sounds like you may need a steering wheel spacer....

Thanks Guys,

GTRgeoff - Did the recaro you bought have a width for the wings, how wide were they? Model?

RellikZephyr - will let you know, if i get rid of these

Ferni - Cheers, yah, i got some costs to rebolster and modify.. and 1st / 2nd hand AM seats are looking like good value.

Do any of you guys know where i could test a bunch of different seats? Revolution Racegear here in CBR is a little lacking in variety :P

Again, thanks for your help

- M

Mike, I never checked the model. Pretty basic as far as I know but with the build of Rugby Union prop and 100kg @ 176cm the wings are exceptionally well fitted to me. RR canberra used to have a good range when I lived there but I left in 2000. They used to be pretty helpful so ask if they know of some you can try out or ask the ACT members of the forum.

The sheer rigidity of the Recaros puts the stockers well in the shade. The downside is no auto slide forward on the passenger side when you tilt but back seaters are a pain anyway.

If your tall and getting a new seat and running harnesses then be sure the seat is the right size. For a reasonable budget i thnk VELO are a great seat and very comfortable. (5'11" 100kgs)

Other then that i find Racetech are another great, comfortable seat. I wouldnt personally buy Recaro

well i half agree with troy. yes I think d cups are nicer than c, but there is a point at which they become unfeasably large... wait a minute. we're talking about seats.

velo is definately a good seat on a budget, and they cater for the 'ample gentleman' such as myslef (6"2 and many kgs). I haven't used a racetech, but they look nice, and aren't that cheap. the downside is they are made in NZ and some of them proudly have it stitched into the headrest. lol

I love recaro buckets, their recliners have never done it for me at all. I dont find them confortable, and they are massive, and heavy. I wouldn't put them in my car. Their race seats are awesome though, and I still regret selling the one I had. The downside is they are the most expensive by far (like double the price of some others).

Currently I use the standard GTR seats on the street and love them, but for any kind of track work, go straight to a proper race seat (ie, fixed bucket). ATM I use a Cobra evolution GT for that, but it may be a bit too pricey, and a bit too hard core for most mere mortals as it as the head restraints etc (it's out of a V8SC).

here's a tip, when looking at bucket seats "GT" version is code for "this seat is for fat people". needless to say, I have the GT... lol.

Cheers,

Will jot them down, and check em out when in Melb / Syd.

I wasn’t too keen on spent $1500 new Racaro right now but a second hand one, or a new cheaper seat could be the go, not before I try them out though, im a little picky.

Baron – Yah, I’ve seen pics of your defi clad, roll caged BNR32 with the Cobra’s – mighty impressive. Cheers for the “GT” hahaha

I see you have a quick release, though what steering wheel and HICAS suitable boss are you using?

This will require a fair amount of work and looking around i think :(

- M

I have a Bride Zeta 3. Very large improvement on factory GT-R seats :(

Just getting in and out is a bit of a bugger sometimes.

Wheres the improvement Remix, what are your measurements? Did you car come with them from Jp?

Id like to find a strong, correct reclinable if possible as its a 2 door, i see the Zeta is a fixed back. $800 for FRP, and $1600 for CF, with the "type L" more again. I dont like the idea buying a seat without trying first.

Ta

M

HKB make a hicas compatible boss kit. just make sure you order the right one for your year model as there are 2 types of steering angle sensor in R32 GTRs (early, and late models are different).

then it's just a matter of bolting your spacer or quick release to the boss, then the wheel to the spacer.

Well i have a zeta 2, which is almost identical to a zeta 3, and the biggest difference i found was that the shoulders are very comfortable. I sat in other bride, a gtr seat and a sparco sprint, and their shoulder's were just not right, for me anyway. The zeta is also tight on the hips whcih is great, but really good on the shoulders. I'm 5'11, 82kg's with around 56cm shoulder width.

I also have a quick release kit, which makes getitn in and out ALOT easier.

Well i have a zeta 2, which is almost identical to a zeta 3, and the biggest difference i found was that the shoulders are very comfortable. I sat in other bride, a gtr seat and a sparco sprint, and their shoulder's were just not right, for me anyway. The zeta is also tight on the hips whcih is great, but really good on the shoulders. I'm 5'11, 82kg's with around 56cm shoulder width.

I also have a quick release kit, which makes getitn in and out ALOT easier.

Awesome, thanks Zeta for your contribution. It seems a lot of ppl running seats that fit them well, require quick release kits. I always figured Junki's would nab my wheel, though the ones that tilt, not separate would work.

HKB make a hicas compatible boss kit. just make sure you order the right one for your year model as there are 2 types of steering angle sensor in R32 GTRs (early, and late models are different).

then it's just a matter of bolting your spacer or quick release to the boss, then the wheel to the spacer.

Thats Exactly what i was looking for BB!! "HKB" Generic boss, i can then use with most boss's and wheels

Thanks a heap!!

- Michael

Wheres the improvement Remix, what are your measurements? Did you car come with them from Jp?

Id like to find a strong, correct reclinable if possible as its a 2 door, i see the Zeta is a fixed back. $800 for FRP, and $1600 for CF, with the "type L" more again. I dont like the idea buying a seat without trying first.

Ta

M

If you're worried about it being a 2 door just use a non-reclinable driver's seat and a reclinable passanger seat.

As for being worried about junkies yoinking your wheel, just take it with you, then they can't yoink your car either :laugh: (unless they come prepared)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...