Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just picked up a set of Sard 550cc injectors off a mate.

Bought the sard set due to a convenient price not

as a result of the Nismo vs Sard debate on my other thread... :P

Now like the other thread has anyone used these and

fitted them on themselves?

So far im aware that the O-ring set that comes with

them is no good.

Is there any other issues or dramas anyone has come across whilst

installing these injectors.

Collar set looks odd but hopefully it bolts onto the fuel rail.

Any help with this will be much appreciated.

I'll write a DIY in the tutorials as soon as I get a

chance to fit them on.

Cheers,

Bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149084-sard-550cc-injectors/
Share on other sites

Hmm thats weird cause a lot of ppl have told me that cams and injectors can be tricky and would be better left to a tuner to install them

Its depends on how much mechanical knowlegde you have.

Im a 3rd year Aerospace Engineering student and I have been

playing with turbos since I was young.

My moto is: If someone else can do it, well so can I.

No one is born with knowledge...you attain it.

With this mentality anything is possible!

Kind regards,

Bill

Edited by Nabil
Its depends on how much mechanical knowlegde you have.

Im a 3rd year Aerospace Engineering student and I have been

playing with turbos since I was young.

My moto is: If someone else can do it, well so can I.

No one is born with knowledge...you attain it.

With this mentality anything is possible!

Kind regards,

Bill

mr aerospace engineering

I have them installed

the o ring is shit doesn't even fit - not on mine anyway....I had fuel pissing out everywhere...

I adapted the OEM o-rings...works a treat. They are a bit noisy but I only have stock ones ot compare them to...I run over 250 and they never get over 80% duty.

mr aerospace engineering

I have them installed

the o ring is shit doesn't even fit - not on mine anyway....I had fuel pissing out everywhere...

I adapted the OEM o-rings...works a treat. They are a bit noisy but I only have stock ones ot compare them to...I run over 250 and they never get over 80% duty.

Great...who sells new OEM rings?

As nissan apparently only sells them with the injectors.

Not too keen on re-using my old rings.

Give him a break. I've done the injectors before, and they're piss easy.

All you need is a brain and common sense. e.g. ttake this off, then what is the next logical step. Then do this etc etc.

Shit, fuel is pissing out, obviously i'm gonna turn the engine off.

For f@#$K sake fellas I have done

it before on a CA18 with top feed injectors.

Its my first time to do a RB with side feed injectors.

& I don't believe this "DIRECT BOLT-ON" crap that goes around.

All I ask is for is other peoples anecdotal experiences in

issues they have come across, not a step by step guide.

This has turned into a Comedy Show. ;)

For f@#$K sake fellas I have done

it before on a CA18 with top feed injectors.

Its my first time to do a RB with side feed injectors.

& I don't believe this "DIRECT BOLT-ON" crap that goes around.

All I ask is for is other peoples anecdotal experiences in

issues they have come across, not a step by step guide.

This has turned into a Comedy Show. ;)

lol agreed mate. Good luck getting a straight answer :P

ive fitted several sard injectors to rb25's. 550cc and 850cc types. I used the orings they provided and had no dramas at all with leaking fuel. No dramas with fitting the collars. The only thing that wasnt bolt on was the plugs. Every set i did had to have the plug cut off the injector loom and rewired to suit their plug. However ive been told that this has changed recently and their plugs are now straight plug n play with the std loom. But i dont know how old your injectors are.

Fark it was hard work....im just a dumbarse fabricator...what would i know about mechanics???

P.S You dont goto workshops...cause they are just as bigger dumbarses as anyone else...haha even mechanics and mechanical engineers. It's really quite sad.

Edited by r33_racer

Honestlly

I paid the extra $$$ and bought Nismo 550's this time as they are true bolt in...

I used Sard in the past on my first 33 and they leaked everywhere, none of the injectors sealed and I could not get the OEM rings on without breaking them... I ended up selling them and buying a fuel rail and top feed injectors, it was a bit of a nightmare to be honest...

yes as Col said already...if i was doing it again i would have gotten nismos also. A true straight bolt up set.

yeah I reckon if I was doing it again I would get the NISMOs...but as I got mine for free, including install etc I went was the Sards...and eys the plugs needed changing also..

They work fine once the o-ring issue was sorted out...dunno if they just gave me the wrong ones...kinda ghey for 600 dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...