Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

are you guys sure the r33 thermo fan doesnt switch on with aircon? i thought it did. not constantly, but as needed.

Yes you are right, even R32 but i think we'd like to have the fan turn on a bit earlier than what set (factory temp set at 94degree i believe) by Nissan just to be on the secure side.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Thanks for the how to Cubes, worked a trick. But I think its a little too late for my compressor, I think the summer period has over cooked it. Oh well I have a replacement one here.

What gas are you running? Our compressors are not designed to deal with the high pressures experienced with R134a gas.

Find an aircon specialist that is licensed to deal with R12a; a MUCH better option.

I've had both gases in mine and the R12a is much better. I can no longer hear the a/c compressor roar, I can no longer feel when it clicks in and out and the power it sucks out of the motor is hardly noticable UNLIKE R134a.

R12a is a more efficient and environ friendly aircon gas than R134a.

Don't confuse R12a with R12. They are two different gases.

yeh i converted it to R134a gas and ever since then have been having probs. 2 weeks after I had it done it built up too much pressure and stopped working. They had to release some gas and it worked again for a few months then the compressor went. I'll have to get the compressor replaced and then fill it with the r12a then.

What gas are you running? Our compressors are not designed to deal with the high pressures experienced with R134a gas.

Find an aircon specialist that is licensed to deal with R12a; a MUCH better option.

I've had both gases in mine and the R12a is much better. I can no longer hear the a/c compressor roar, I can no longer feel when it clicks in and out and the power it sucks out of the motor is hardly noticable UNLIKE R134a.

R12a is a more efficient and environ friendly aircon gas than R134a.

Don't confuse R12a with R12. They are two different gases.

haha ive converted mine to R134a.

The power drain is huge, wouldnt dare turn it on whilst idling at lights :whistling: When coming to a stop, i always put it into neutral and rev a bit so it doesnt stall it self :P

haha ive converted mine to R134a.

The power drain is huge, wouldnt dare turn it on whilst idling at lights :whistling: When coming to a stop, i always put it into neutral and rev a bit so it doesnt stall it self :P

lol mine wasn't quite that bad but it made the car feel very very dull.

  • 7 months later...

i did this and it worked a treat,

also added another wire connecting it to the black side of the diode then ran the wire into my cabin with a switch that connects to ground, now i can turn it on via the switch or via the air con

Say ur radiator temp has rose a bit, just flip the switch and instantly the overheat fan will kick in and aid in cooling your radiator.

  • 3 weeks later...

has anyone tried this on an R33?

I'm about to replace my aircon fan, as mine is seized, and probably has been for some time. although the aircon is still quite good :blink:

now to work out how to get the fan out without removing the fmic :devil: . i tried, but it doesnt look possible, so i unplugged it for the time being.

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 1 year later...

as hot weather has come around in victoria, this requires a bump up to the top :yes:

took my car to get an AC checkup and they told me to wire in the radiator fan startup.

One question, after turning off the AC is the rad fan still on? or does the wire+diode signal the rad fan to turn off?

  • 11 months later...

Yes, I would like to do this mod on my S2 R33 for this summer! Does anyone know if the fuse layout is the same as the R32's?

Also, does it actually make much difference to the air temps (inside the car) when you've just started the car and it's ultra hot outside, but you're sitting still? I'm finding that for the first few mins it never really cools down much inside if it's >35C outside and I'm not doing >40-50km/h. On the flip side, once I'm doing >40km/h would I really need this 2nd fan going whenever the A/C is on?

Oh, and what happens if the car reaches 91C but the A/C is off? Does the overheat fan stay off? Or, in other words, is the overheat fan now solely controlled by the A/C?

Edited by benro2

will be trying this mod its got 2 be 1 of the cheapest 1s out and it will give me a chance to check if my thermal fan works (i dont trust the 1 the panel beater fitted)

  • 4 weeks later...
took my car to get an AC checkup and they told me to wire in the radiator fan startup.

likewise - when i had my regas done the mechanic also advised running the thermo fan would knock off approx 5degrees from my current internal vent temp which is @ 11degrees

this is a fantastic mod, i'll do this today :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...