Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
Very interested in having an Rb26/30det built for my 33gtst but I dont have the time to read 3000+ posts at the moment anyone whos had this done possibly have a list of parts,pricing,labour etc? would be much appreciated

so your not going to be building it yourself then?

then get some quotes from some workshops.. expect for a proper build RB26/30 to be near $10K just for the motor including labour.

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
Just got my rb25/30 dynoed both stock AFM and injectors were limiting produced 183.9rwkw at 5,500 rpm on 8psi, not bad i thought need to chuck those injectors and bigger airflow meter in then she will be cranking :dry:

good effort, once you get them injectors and afm in she'll be flying, presume that was done at boostworx?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

GTR injectors still wont flow enough, and are wrong impedance.

Why go to all the effort? Just get 550's from Japan for @ around $900.

Drop straight into the RB25 rail.

Then it will justify having the GT35 on the side of it as the GTR injectors still wont allow you make the power you should with the GT35 on there.

FORZA-MOTORSPORT Proficient

FORZA-MOTORSPORT

Posted
Posted
GTR injectors still wont flow enough, and are wrong impedance.

Why go to all the effort? Just get 550's from Japan for @ around $900.

Drop straight into the RB25 rail.

Then it will justify having the GT35 on the side of it as the GTR injectors still wont allow you make the power you should with the GT35 on there.

Good idea! :glare: Kill 2 birds with 1 stone :)

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Or try to track down a set of 550cc rx7 injectors.

The GTR's should push 250rwkw odd with a bit of fuel pressure.

Do remember Shaun's dyno reads a tad lower than the rest as for what ever reason he runs it in SHOOT6 mode not Shoot6F. generally speaking as you lower the shootout modes the reading also becomes slightly less.

For example.. throw it in shoot81 and you will pick up 25-30rwkw. :yes:

SO yes.. 550cc injectors push 18-19psi and 300rwkw odd. :D

FORZA-MOTORSPORT Proficient

FORZA-MOTORSPORT

Posted
Posted
But AM-PERFORMANCE has a R32 RB25de head wich has the same rail as a RB20det, are'nt RB25det injectors side feed?

Nice power figure for such low boost!

Thanks mate :whistling: , well the rb25de head i got was from an r32 so it is top feed, r33 rb25de heads must be side feed i think!

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
anyone used GTR cams in the RB25DE head with the 3L bottom end?

I've used them in the DET head, so if they have hydraulic followers they will give the same problems. The flank angles are too high so I found almost no power under 5K rpm but plenty over. The cams can be reground to give even more lift and the right profile for hydraulics.

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
anyone used GTR cams in the RB25DE head with the 3L bottom end?

looking into this now, they will fit but with a weld and regrind should be pretty good accompanied with some adjustable cam gears, just weighing up whether to do this or get some poncams!

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

why not spend the $450 odd for a tomei exhaust cam for an rb20det head (like 264 with 9.0mm lift) Staright fit, no welding. Depends on what u want out of the power band as to what specs u need im sure, so what results would the gtr cams bring in over the std 25 cams? Not much or alot?

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
why not spend the $450 odd for a tomei exhaust cam for an rb20det head (like 264 with 9.0mm lift) Staright fit, no welding. Depends on what u want out of the power band as to what specs u need im sure, so what results would the gtr cams bring in over the std 25 cams? Not much or alot?

still looking into it, theres a guy on calaisturbo.com that does weld and regrinds and has a really good rep! I'd rather get a full set of cams rather that just the one. This is the message he sent me!

Re: cams

If you want a small improvement without changing anything the best bet is to give me some GTR cams and I can grind them to hydraulic spec to suit your motor. This will add about 10 degrees and 1mm of lift to your car as it is now. Cost is about $220 to grind the cams that you supply.

He said there isn't as much to gain using the 25de non vvt cams!

Still looking into it, still getting my head around all the 'degress' and 'lift' etc cam talk, don't wanna jump into anything until i understand it more and work out the best value for money!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Cost is about $220 to grind the cams that you supply.

He said there isn't as much to gain using the 25de non vvt cams!

You said camsssssss... Being $220 for 2 sticks to be reground? If so thats not bad...

What do you mean by the second bit... isn't as much to gain using the 25de non-vvt cams. Is that compared to the regrind or the std rb26 cams?

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
You said camsssssss... Being $220 for 2 sticks to be reground? If so thats not bad...

What do you mean by the second bit... isn't as much to gain using the 25de non-vvt cams. Is that compared to the regrind or the std rb26 cams?

i can't remember exactly but something about the gtr cams having more meat or more area to grind/weld makes them better for a weld and regrind

it is $220 for both cams!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...