Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That just sucks Mark. As an alternative if you still have some stockers then Slide is still only $1500 for highflows. Mine made 320rwkw on 14psi on the GTR so on the 30 should go harder again at lower rpm.

unlucky scooby! There is always problems....its quite annoying.

I need a little bit of info so i can work out the cr for this new motor....

Does anyone know what the std compression height is from gudgeon centre to deck...is it 1.300" or 33.02mm? I know the cp's all have a comp height of 1.280" and the 9:1 pistons have a 6cc dome. But i have a set of acl rb25 pistons and was going to see if i can use them to get a 9:1cr in this new motor.

1.300" (33.02mm) does ring a bell.

Wiseco state their rb30det piston has a comp height of 1.260" (32mm) and results in a deck height is 0.039" (0.99mm). Going by that the deck height is 1.299" (32.9946mm).

Would have to measure it up to be sure, but its safe to say its with in 1.299" to 1.3" :closedeyes:

Pull off ~0.030" or so off the block depending on how the head cc's up and headgasket.

got the dreaded phone call today. noisy turbo had worn bearing and seal, needs machining and oversize seal. other one - not noisy - has worn bearing. had them checked and given stamp of approval by same turbo shop before purchase. 20 km later, stuffed. go figure. waiting for advice on if it looks like there has been oil starvation.

no oil starvation (guess that's a good thing), just wear. so the turbos that were given an OK and a "we'd buy them, no problem" seal of approval were stuffed from the start. now it's "well we can only inspect them to an extent". as i pointed out, pity they didn't say that at the time. as if i'd spend that much money and leave things to chance. bottom line is they know they screwed up but there is no way they'll compensate me for the full amount. trying to reach an agreement for parts only so at least i'm getting somewhat of a break.

Hi Geoff, it sure does suck. I was thinking of the hi flow stockers but I'm worried about running out of puff at higher revs with the RB30. Even thought about having the R34N1s hi flowed to be sure. A while back I also invested in having the exh housings ceramic coated and ported by the same place that OK'd the turbos, such was my trust in their recommendation about their condition, so i'm kind of stuck with these.

Cheers

i have 87 hks 26 pistons. and 6" rods

has anyone decked a 30e block 2mm to get a desired sqush cleaance? or will this weaken it to much i heard of 0.5mm but not 2mm

another option i was thinking of is using rd28 83mm crank with 6.125" rods

im aiming for 700hp on 98ron i have large overlap mild apexi cams too. what static comp ratio should i aim for.. is 9:1 too much?

rb26 pistons aren't really suitable for the conversion, as to get the correct squish, you end up with too much compression. 2mm deck is fine, and i would recommend 9:1 for a street car, just run 98 octane, and it will be a torque machine, just need to get the correct pistons, although you could machine down the crowns, just need to check the thickness, as you will need to take a fair bit off. SK has played with the diesel cranks, and he doesn't recommend them, but it would give an awesme rod/stroke ratio.

Ive said it before.

If your going to ask questions that have been covered here or in other parts, ill chop your post >_<

Im *slowly* cleaning up the thread as best i can. So expect another 15-20 pages to drop off soon

no oil starvation (guess that's a good thing), just wear. so the turbos that were given an OK and a "we'd buy them, no problem" seal of approval were stuffed from the start. now it's "well we can only inspect them to an extent". as i pointed out, pity they didn't say that at the time. as if i'd spend that much money and leave things to chance. bottom line is they know they screwed up but there is no way they'll compensate me for the full amount. trying to reach an agreement for parts only so at least i'm getting somewhat of a break.

Cheers

...and the best they can offer is parts only at $1269 to rebuild both. Wouldn't spend any more money with 'that' shop, would even pay more elsewhere than line their pockets after being screwed. Being sent to Garrett for a 2nd opinion.

Just an idea does/has anyone used an RB30 Crank etc in a RB20/25/26/(RB25NEO) :) with sleaves and spacer plate like OK Giken do?

Gets around oil squirter fitment, vct oil supply etc.

How do you think it will compare to the usual RB30DET option.

The rb30 block, with squirters fitted would still be alot cheaper option.

Just an idea does/has anyone used an RB30 Crank etc in a RB20/25/26/(RB25NEO) :) with sleaves and spacer plate like OK Giken do?

Gets around oil squirter fitment, vct oil supply etc.

How do you think it will compare to the usual RB30DET option.

True, was just thinking that a RB30DET based on the r34 RB25DET would be something different.

With VVL, solid lifters and the like.

I Guess that getting the constantly variable VCT working would be a pain.

And for solid valve train you could just use the RB26 Head.

I supose that there is not enough merit to justify the expense,except maybe that it could be a one of.

Err Sorry Adriano was not aware of that.

The RB30 Guide says that 34 heads have a different water/oil gallery design.

Is this true?

If so how much modification is required to fit onto RB30 Block.

Have another read of it...

R34 RB25 heads apparently have a different water/oil galley design. I will update here when I know for sure.

Note the apparently.

I've known for some time the above is untrue... I guess its time to update the guide. lol.

I don't think I mentioned the R34 Heads are solid either..

I have a few more pics and a few other bits and pieces to drop in it. Just a matter of motivation and a little time. :)

hi fellaz, just wondering if there is a rb30 service manual out there, or a r31/vl service man which gives details about the rb30 engine. that would be great if someone can help and share it in pdf.

ive found R32/3/4 manuals after much searching but no luck with the 30

thanx

Have a look KKR turbos otomoto.com i think. They are plain bearing type but a great quality unit.

KKR580.Only abut $900 brand new.

Also with the pistons, Suggest maybe you look at Hypereutectic, they are a good strong piston and i have had them in turbo cars exceeding 330rwkw without fault.

I would definately be looking at NA pistons for the rb30/25 engine though to keep compression up for better down low response.

Also another inexpensive way of treating engine components is CRYOGENICS, Helps to stabalise the molecules of the component,

I believe most V8 Supercar engine builders use this technique, only costs about $10-15 per kg last time i checked.

Hope some of this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...