Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep it's been a while.. I just wanted everything to be done :P

Basic run down on my setup currently:

Stock RB30 bottom end (new bearings, rings etc)

Ported RB26DETT Head with mild cams

Subzero Split pulse manifold. Used a plate to fit my current turbo.

Garret GT30/40 spec turbo .82A/R Rear

600cc injectors

Power FC

Enginepaint1.jpg

A guy here in Brisbane does them,NV N01, as well as HICAS bars. Pretty good prices and good products hence I don't do the bars anymore.

Al, just loosen everything, drop the front of the cradle down after removing the lower pineapples and put the split ones above the cradle at the front. You only use 4 at a time. you will need a bar to lever the cradle down far enough to install mate. Better yet get the Alloys. I could feel the rear of the GTR squirming with the pineapples and now there is too much grip with the Alloys for skidpan work. I can only assume the cradle bushes were pretty doughy and the pineapples not enough to help it.

What you will notice is a bit of drop in the rear when accelerating hard but no other real issues.

Ben I saw your dyno chart. An extra 70rwkw at 80kmh. Pretty nice.

Haha that's great to here, I have a max oversize slide hi-flow too. Can't wait to get my rb30 back together.

What tyres/rims are you running? also what manifolds are you using?

I have a set of fedral 595's 235/50/17 and 9" rears. I am going to get 265's when the ones on there are ready to be replaced. also will get the camber set to 0deg.

stock manifolds :P conservative timing and fairly rich tune ( 11.5:1 )

its a really touchy combination of turbo and engine. especially with a 2 way lsd, anything more that slight throttle around a corner and it will start to slide.

the alloy bushes hold the cradle still but not sure if they are the best setup. if i was to do it again i would replace the stockers with urethane items.

So i've gone back to the idea of dry sumping the motor and this is what i've came up with...

Feedback is welcome.

sump01.gif

1. Peterson 4 stage dry sump pump, left hand mounted

2. Oil filter

3. Modify rear of head to have external oil drain (unsure if needed, would use 3 stage pump if its not)

4. Two pick up points from dry sump pan

5. Oil cooler

6. 1.5 gallon / 2 gallon oil tank

7. Remote breather can

Any suggestions or pointers? I am not too sure about the external oil drain on the head, if its required or not on a dry sump setup. I thought if it was then a 4 stage pump would be required so I could have 3 pick ups ( 2 from oil pan and 1 from head).

Has anyone used a Davies Craig electric water pump for their build?

My mate is using one on his 302 windsor. I was a bit skeptical when the Idea came up, But its really working great. actually better than the Mechanical Stock pump did. We also have a DAvis craig 15" thermo fan setup, with thermo switch active on it, so that also helps. the damn thing runs cooler than my RB. so yea. good investment. But not sure if its really worth the effort on an RB.

I would put the oil cooler inline after the filter before the oil enters the engine. Ideally you would have a cooler before engine, and then one before it goes to the tank.

We are having success with our dry sump set up so far with 3/4 of the season complete.

3 scavenges from the sump, none from head, oil pumps through cooler to filter to motor and back to tank after going through an in line filter before landing in the tank. Tank holds about 15 litres of oil (Redline ouch $$).

Biggest and most difficult job was fabricating the bracket on the Left side of motor and arranging for a machine shop to modify the harmonic balancer to add the pulley wheel.

Good luck...the peace of mind is brilliant and with the vacuum created we seem to have almost solved the top end oil problems even when the car does a 15 lap flat out race.

So i've gone back to the idea of dry sumping the motor and this is what i've came up with...

Feedback is welcome.

sump01.gif

1. Peterson 4 stage dry sump pump, left hand mounted

2. Oil filter

3. Modify rear of head to have external oil drain (unsure if needed, would use 3 stage pump if its not)

4. Two pick up points from dry sump pan

5. Oil cooler

6. 1.5 gallon / 2 gallon oil tank

7. Remote breather can

Any suggestions or pointers? I am not too sure about the external oil drain on the head, if its required or not on a dry sump setup. I thought if it was then a 4 stage pump would be required so I could have 3 pick ups ( 2 from oil pan and 1 from head).

I'd put the cooler on the pressure side between the pump and the engine. I suppose you could run both sides but it makes for a lot of extra plumbing.

so... is that solid works or autocad you used to draw that up? :laughing-smiley-014:

I have to admit having three pick ups from the sump and none from the back of the head is alot easier and tidier. But if you had the head return already from a wet sump setup and converting to dry sump, rather then removing it, it can be simplier just to connect that line to one of the scavenges.

Either way works fine, it just depends on preference i guess. I believe peterson suggest two coolers as the ideal option, one before motor and one after. I would also filter the oil before it goes to the cooler, helps stop any crap from getting caught up in it, as they are pretty well impossible to get perfectly clean.

Ive said it before...but make sure you use the inline filters on every scavenge point! Thats a must, if you dont want to do it, refer back to my ballbearing in peterson pump gear thread.

I might as well use a 3 stage pump seeing that I haven't put an outlet /pickup on the back of the head.

Its my understanding that I wont have to put a restrictor in the oil galleries right?

Proengines - Photoshop CS3 autocad. lol... you like?

r33_racer - I sent you a PM re oil pan.

what do you guys think about remote oil filters?

if i was to use a remote oil filter on my rb30 with n1 pump, 1.5 mm head ristriction and the other blocked off, is there more chance of things to go wrong in the oil department??

the remote filter is just for practicality and does nothing else, so would this increase likelihood of oil starvation to head??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...