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R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

JCaSs1001 Contributor

JCaSs1001

Posted
Posted
Not sure if this has been mentioned...

I recently got my RB25/30 running (last Tuesday). I did the mod for the VCT, however, all I did was grub screw the hole in the head, with no other modification. My VCT works perfect. No oil control/lack of oil issues or anything (this was mod was done on the advice of my engine builder).

Discuss.

u mean to say u didnt do either internal(from buckets) or external oil feed to the VCT solenoid and it still works??

cactus Collaborator

cactus

Posted
Posted
u mean to say u didnt do either internal(from buckets) or external oil feed to the VCT solenoid and it still works??

Correct. All I did was the grub screw mod to stop oil/water mixing. Bolted the head on (of course all of this on the advice of engine builder) and it works fine. This has been done on my mates twin came RB30 and his also works.

judd33 Collaborator

judd33

Posted
Posted

quick question guys, got a 6boost high mount mani and a gt35r turbo,did anyone have to re -postion any of the front or rear housings on the turbo to position the turbo correctly on the mani.my mani is a t3 flange,fits perfetly,so no problem there!

judd33 Collaborator

judd33

Posted
Posted
yes you will need to losen the front housing so you can align it properly with where you want it.

make sure the oil feed into the turbo is facing straight up

thought so cheers!i wont be doing it,just a stupid ? really, but there is no stupid ? on here!

fomby639 Enthusiast

fomby639

Posted
Posted (edited)

ive just gotten hold of a NA rb30 bottom end and gonna to the usual build, ie rods pistons and so on, just wonder a few things...

1. is there any difference with the rb30 NA and Turbo Crank

2. can the rb30 crank be fitted to a rb25 block to get around drilling and taping holes in the rb30 block, read somewhere that this was possible and if not what is the best way about doing the tensioner for the belt if the pre tapped hole is not there.

3. is there any other differences between the turbo and NA rb30 block itself.

Using a 25 head, cheers for any help :)

Edited by fomby639
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
ive just gotten hold of a NA rb30 bottom end and gonna to the usual build, ie rods pistons and so on, just wonder a few things...

1. is there any difference with the rb30 NA and Turbo Crank

no

2. can the rb30 crank be fitted to a rb25 block to get around drilling and taping holes in the rb30 block, read somewhere that this was possible and if not what is the best way about doing the tensioner for the belt if the pre tapped hole is not there.

no

3. is there any other differences between the turbo and NA rb30 block itself.

no, but there is a small difference between S1 and S2 blocks in relation to the flat area where the tensioner goes, the S2 block is a little easier.

Using a 25 head, cheers for any help ;)

Cheers

Gary

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

Some of the S1 blocks don't have the turbo oil feed drilled all the way through, check it with a piece of wire and make sure it goes all the way through the block and into the gallery behind the oil filter housing. You can drill it, just need a long series drill to do it. I've only seen one block like that but it's worth a check.

  • 2 weeks later...
Redliner007 Enthusiast

Redliner007

Posted
Posted

hey guys! Sorry its been a while have been so caught up with work and studies haven't really had much time to spend online or on cars sadly :banana: But i have managed to FINALLY get mine trouble free and tuned. How is all the rb30's out there? Hope all is going well for the festive season.

On a quick note has anyone has issues with the speedometer drive/cable on the bigger rb25det gearbox? For some reason my gearbox keeps shredding the plastic part at the end of the drive, It was all fine until i took it out onto the open road sitting around 100km this is the second time its happened and was wondering if someone knew a way around it?

joe blo Experienced

joe blo

Posted
Posted (edited)

do most of you guys get more area welded onto the head on the front water gallery i think it is how its different from the rb30 block? i got my head rebuilt but didnt know about getting that bit modded to get more gasket sealing area there. will it be ok to leave it how it is?

its a rb25det head from a r33

Edited by joe blo
Redliner007 Enthusiast

Redliner007

Posted
Posted
How closely are you following the writeups for the speedo sender? are you cutting a new groove and rotating the sender 180'?

too be honest i didnt know there was one lol. Um i was thinking maybe it was because of the bigger motor it was doing this? I have yet to pull the speedo drive out a second time to confirm that it has chewed the plast gears, cutting groove and rotating???? I'm not aware of this

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
too be honest i didnt know there was one lol. Um i was thinking maybe it was because of the bigger motor it was doing this? I have yet to pull the speedo drive out a second time to confirm that it has chewed the plast gears, cutting groove and rotating???? I'm not aware of this

Read the writeups!!

You basically need to rotate the sender 180 deg otherwise the gear mesh is too great and it chews the gears out.

  • 3 weeks later...
On Edge Veteran

On Edge

Posted
Posted

hey people, great thread this one has been a great read!!!!

i am just about to do the following

put series 2 stock rb30 bottom end, with new bearings and piston rings

onto a stock series rb25 head.

how much should i be charged for this in labour? i have benn qouted $2500 nearly $3000

bear in mind this is to keep vvt also

any help and advice on whethter this labour price is good please let me know, i think its way too much

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Guys I was just doing some casual reading AGAIN on the RB30DOHC guide, and in relation tot heR33 RB25 head, it claims you will need to:

"The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain."

What is the external head oil return it speaks of? Is this the standard one at the front of the head that needs to be T'd in?

I'm on my second RB30DOHC motor, and never had this fitted... What issues are normally seen if this isn't plumbed in?

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