Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have to get an EPA noise and emissions test done fairly soon and was wondering If I could get some advice? I have a R33 gtr vspec series 3, current mods are, -5 turbos, power fc, greedy elec boost controller, nismo fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and injectors, cam gears, exhaust, and pods

I was planning to remove the boost controller, return the injectors and ecu to stock. I believe that the turbos shouldnt be a problem as they are nearly the same as stock. Do I need to return the fuel pump and pressure regulator to stock, I know Im meant to but will they effect emissions if the stock ecu is controlling them and would the inspectors be able to tell between the stock and nismo items. I will quieten the exhaust and leave it that way. Also if I refit the stock ecu will I need to get the car retuned? And is there a difference between an ecu for a gtr and gtr vspec. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Any advice? Just like a bit more of an idea to what stock parts I'll need to start collecting/replacing. Cheers.

Depends if you've been defected or not.

If you have not, you might get away with it.

If you have, unlikely as it'll be listed on the defect. Any legit RWC place should not honour it without an engineers.

not defected.

should i do something to make it not so obvious like weld on both side and paint the new metal plate to make the color same.

thx

Depends if you've been defected or not.

If you have not, you might get away with it.

If you have, unlikely as it'll be listed on the defect. Any legit RWC place should not honour it without an engineers.

You should make it as close to factory as possible mate, closer it is, the better.

Even if it takes more time/money... as once you get defected for it, I'm not sure any engineer in Vic actually signs off on it (if you have airbags)

no airbag, it is a R32, is it going to make my life easier on this? damn stupid previous owner!!! they cut a hole there and not using it

You should make it as close to factory as possible mate, closer it is, the better.

Even if it takes more time/money... as once you get defected for it, I'm not sure any engineer in Vic actually signs off on it (if you have airbags)

No airbag means any engineer will easily sign off on a PROPER repair job should you get defected (requiring engineers)

So you shouldn't have any issues if you do a good repair now, and then just go about your normal life.

Being you'll already have fixed it, no-one will know otherwise :)

I got defected for not having a battery wire with tie downs every 60mm and open ended wheel nuts is that BS or can i be done for this?

i got done for other things but just confused about these

^Wow that's harsh.^

I cleared mine EPA today. Even a standard 32 cat back exhaust was 93 db so it failed yesterday, everything else was ok except the guy thought I had diff fuel pump coz it was noisy. Pulled it out and its nissan :(

Had to get a new muffler and it made it 84 db today. It's been 6 months and I will finally have it back on the road.

I got defected for not having a battery wire with tie downs every 60mm and open ended wheel nuts is that BS or can i be done for this?

i got done for other things but just confused about these

Not sure about the battery wire but my car from factory has open ended wheel nuts as does just about every car I can think of that has steel rims.

Battery wire tie downs every 600mm (60cm). From memory that's the requirement, but sometimes it's better to have every 40cm.

It's a fair call, but pretty pedantic. If I was the copper, I would've said "Fix this and you can go on your way".

As for the open ended wheel nuts.... Not sure!

I got defected for not having a battery wire with tie downs every 60mm and open ended wheel nuts is that BS or can i be done for this?

i got done for other things but just confused about these

I got EPA'd at a defect station at 90.4db...and was told id get a letter warning that it is close to the limit.

I just received a letter saying 94db and to get it checked/fixed.

Im wondering is there any % leeway on these tests like speed cameras have 3km... or is it 90 flat. 90.1 over = defect??

You sure you didn't miss read the reading of 90.4? :blink:

On a serious note, do you have paper work to show 90.4?

Usually they have a tolerance.

I got EPA'd at a defect station at 90.4db...and was told id get a letter warning that it is close to the limit.

I just received a letter saying 94db and to get it checked/fixed.

Im wondering is there any % leeway on these tests like speed cameras have 3km... or is it 90 flat. 90.1 over = defect??

You sure you didn't miss read the reading of 90.4? :blink:

On a serious note, do you have paper work to show 90.4?

^That :)

Either way, you are illegal so what it "is" its honestly irrelevant.

You need to be 89dB 4900RPM if memory serves me correct for the RB25... so regardless of 90.4 or 94.0 - you need to fix your exhaust.

There is no tolerance far as i know however. If it's 0.5dB over, you are over and will fail. As the EPA people "tell" you, thier meters are perfectly calibrated.

I know for a fact they are not (having gone to two testers and had a variance of 2dB), but thats just how it goes really.

You should make it as close to factory as possible mate, closer it is, the better.

Even if it takes more time/money... as once you get defected for it, I'm not sure any engineer in Vic actually signs off on it (if you have airbags)

Even after all the defects i have seen cops hand out, i have yet to see even the best cops give a defect for the battery tray hole.

Edited by Peter89

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...