Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Caged doesnt need padding far as i am aware. And it always "used" to be you needed to VASS ENGINEER the car as a 2-seater, and rego if you are going half cage and taking seats out, belts, couplings etc. The same applied if you have a fixed back from seat (and no cage). As people cant get out in event of accident etc.

Wether the rule about the cage/re-rego has changed or not i do not know. Brown Davis are on top of the laws so it wouldnt surprise me, and that VicRoads stafff simply have no idea. Just go and ask Brown Davis for where the ruling is etc, they shouild be able to tell you where if they knew about it.

As for the pics - common place these days, expect a full EPA once they send the pics off.

You usually get a "date" to present it by when the letter comes. Usually a few weeks. You can always write and ask for extension due to work/personal reasons to get more time however you won't be able to drive it after the "date" they give you.

If you are running a cage you have to have padding in the head area. If the cage was built pre Jan 2011 and fitted to the car, the cage must follow the Vicroads requirements before Jan 2011. If the Cage was fitted after Jan 2011, then the car shouldn't be on the road as it doesn't conform to the Vicroads standards. (NOTE: The rules have changed... If you can prove the cage was built before January 2011 and fitted, then you should be fine. if it was built and fitted after Jan 2011, then you have no chance of having a cage in your car and it being legal/RWC) Police usually take the easy way out and will declare the car isn't RWC because you have a cage fitted regardless of when you had it fitted unless you have written proof etc. that it was before the Jan 2011 period.

You can get the car registered as a two seater by simply applying to vicroads. You don't have to get it engineered. You must remove seatbelts and seats before you do this. This will allow you to fit the cage and the race seat. No harnesses are allowed, unless the car came out of the factory with one. harnesses are only allowed on cars pre seat belt ADR's (such as Datsun 1600's or some old Holden/fords etc.)

hmmm.... that's strange... i even rang the constable 2 days after as i said i have to get all this stuff checked anyway for a rwc and could we change it to a warning etc, he said that the paperwork has gone to vicroads and he can't cancel it from there. He never mentioned anything about 'expect EPA letter' or ever mentioned EPA? i think it was just a 'note' he wrote on the defect notice.

The main minor point was too low, which it isn't. I told him that you can only check on a flat surface as otherwise you'll get some weird results and sure enough when i got home in my garage to a concrete slab, clearance is ok where his wheel thing got stuck, hence the call to him to cancel notice.

So basically Vicroads will just check height etc - does that also mean the defect can't be cleared because it has excessive noise listed and Vicroads has nothing to do with that?

what happens if i never get an EPA letter?

just realised that the wrong location is written on the notice as well... but i'm highly doubting i can get off on a technicality like that

Of course he wont mention EPA. Either way, VicRoads cannot check exhaust noise.

Got defected for boost controller - when I take my car in to VicRoads once I have it removed, will they be checking anything else? Or do they only care about what I was specifically defected for?

Thanks!

Only whats on the defect notice.

If you are running a cage you have to have padding in the head area. If the cage was built pre Jan 2011 and fitted to the car, the cage must follow the Vicroads requirements before Jan 2011. If the Cage was fitted after Jan 2011, then the car shouldn't be on the road as it doesn't conform to the Vicroads standards. (NOTE: The rules have changed... If you can prove the cage was built before January 2011 and fitted, then you should be fine. if it was built and fitted after Jan 2011, then you have no chance of having a cage in your car and it being legal/RWC) Police usually take the easy way out and will declare the car isn't RWC because you have a cage fitted regardless of when you had it fitted unless you have written proof etc. that it was before the Jan 2011 period.

You can get the car registered as a two seater by simply applying to vicroads. You don't have to get it engineered. You must remove seatbelts and seats before you do this. This will allow you to fit the cage and the race seat. No harnesses are allowed, unless the car came out of the factory with one. harnesses are only allowed on cars pre seat belt ADR's (such as Datsun 1600's or some old Holden/fords etc.)

Was hoping you'd chime in, I'm not quite upto date with it anymore in that area :thumbsup:

yeah stupid they must think we dont work and just cruise in our imports day and night tossers

Its got nothing to do with repair times and everything to do with getting defected cars off the roads. We should think ourselves lucky they give us time to even drive the car home as most cars could probably be put off the road on the spot for one reason or another and be forced to tow them home

hey thanks heaps for the help guys! :)

i ended up calling vicroads this morning abt the windows and spent abt half an hour on the phone. they finally told me that imports with the privacy glass(not added film) are fine as far as there is the stamp in the glass or something, they also said that it complies with the ADR 8 rule. spoke to the guy i was going to get the rwc done through coz my usual mechanic is way too packed and this guy didnt have a clue and said he wanted to have a letter from vicroads to clear it otherwise he wont... so called up my usual mechanic and as soon as i said it was the rear he said that it wasnt a rwc item... so obviously it depends on the mechanics' general knowledge if they are gona give u headaches or try rip u off..

great il give david a call..(brown davis) he is a really helppfull guy so hopefully he will be able to get me the current rule on paper..

i just think its soooooo stupid how the cops can fine u for stuff that aren't even illegal.. seriously, daniel u got picked on probably coz the cop just saw the magic word "skyline" and was on a mission to get u for something even if he was wrong.. now u have to find some time to go to vicroads to fix HIS mistake really... there should be a rule where the cops would get fined for giving out the wrong fine instead of just trying to get more money off us.. :spank: would be a win-win situation, the governement gets money if we f**k up and they get money if the cops f**k up!!!!!! at the end of the day most of these mods we get done for make our cars are safer and even better for the environment... for example when i run my intercooler with the stock ecu the car runs really rich and backfires a lot... lowering our cars makes the cars more stable, having a cage not only make the handlin better but makes the car safer..

ok enough sooking.. lol

thank you very much for the help guys! seriously sau rocks!!!!! :banana:

cheers

Herbie

Of course he wont mention EPA. Either way, VicRoads cannot check exhaust noise.

So essentially i cannot clear the defect until i get the EPA notice as Vicroads has no say on exhaust?

which doesn't make much sense relative to the defect notice because in section 7 it says

NOTICE TO BE CLEARED AT (any) VICROAD OFFICE - how can i clear it if Vicroads just turns around and says, can't say yay or nay to exhaust mate, sorry. Leave the yellow sticker on.

I'd go down there wait till u get called to the counter try get the youngest bloke there and you should be right last defect I cleared had bs stff on it the vicroads guy didn't even know what the cop was talking about so had a laugh he stamped it job done

well after 45mins on hold, Vicroads can clear it. Said that if it's a vicroads/vic pol defect notice, they have the ability to clear the defect. THey said most likely just get me to start it up to have a listen and that's about it.

just going to go down and try my luck

The hold time is a joke but honestly they are the only people who can answer questions like that. I always get a name as well in case the story changes when you get there. The name wont do much but with any luck it will get the person some more training and allow them to give the correct information next time someone calls them

Edited by ido09s

If you are running a cage you have to have padding in the head area. If the cage was built pre Jan 2011 and fitted to the car, the cage must follow the Vicroads requirements before Jan 2011. If the Cage was fitted after Jan 2011, then the car shouldn't be on the road as it doesn't conform to the Vicroads standards. (NOTE: The rules have changed... If you can prove the cage was built before January 2011 and fitted, then you should be fine. if it was built and fitted after Jan 2011, then you have no chance of having a cage in your car and it being legal/RWC) Police usually take the easy way out and will declare the car isn't RWC because you have a cage fitted regardless of when you had it fitted unless you have written proof etc. that it was before the Jan 2011 period.

You can get the car registered as a two seater by simply applying to vicroads. You don't have to get it engineered. You must remove seatbelts and seats before you do this. This will allow you to fit the cage and the race seat. No harnesses are allowed, unless the car came out of the factory with one. harnesses are only allowed on cars pre seat belt ADR's (such as Datsun 1600's or some old Holden/fords etc.)

So are you saying you can't put a cage in a street car in Vic at all anymore? Is that bolt in or welded or both?

oh also nearly forgot...

for the epa test, ive got a turbo back exhaust and was thinking of just chucking the stock cat back system and leave the front and dump pipe.. u guys recon i would still pass the noise test?

cheers

Herbie

oh also nearly forgot...

for the epa test, ive got a turbo back exhaust and was thinking of just chucking the stock cat back system and leave the front and dump pipe.. u guys recon i would still pass the noise test?

cheers

Herbie

You might need to put a baffle in before the CAT (metal sheet, 4-5 holes drilled into it).

Only way is to get tested and find out. Some are fine, some are not. Many factors vary as sometimes old stock exhauts are a bit stuffed etc.

I'd certainly put a stock sized CAT on there as well if you have it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...