Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got some questions that afta doing some research, i havent been able to come up with conclusive answers, so id like to ask:

For an r33 GTS-t stock turbo,

1) when pple say the stock turbo shouldnt be pushed past 14psi, do they mean the boost made at the turbo or are they refering to the boost at the manifold? Im asking coz if i have u 2psi drop across the cooler piping, then saying that the stock turbo is good for 14, really means istd good for 16 if ur measuring it from the manifold.

2) If a turbo has a life of 60,000km, wouldnt boosting it to say 10 -12psi (from 7) mean thats its life is shortened by at least a 1/3? If ur buying a 2nd hand car, the turbo prob has less than 30,000 left, so boosting it could mean u have 20,000kms or less? Since in a typical year u would drive 15 -20,000kms how can ppl say 10 - 12psi is reliable when the turbo will most likely blow within a year and a half?

3) Is it normal for a r33 GTS-t to pull unbelievably hard in 1st gear, very good in 2nd, but pretty poorly in third gear, even up to redline? Is this signs of the turbo maxing out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156828-stock-turbo-capabilities/
Share on other sites

cummon, this has been discussed about 1,000,000 times here, anything over 12 psi and you are gambling, regardless of age. Anyway you dont really get any more power turning it up above that. Run 10-11 psi and sort out the rest of your system first(exhaust, i/c, management) and then if you want more power, get a highflow.

Got some questions that afta doing some research, i havent been able to come up with conclusive answers, so id like to ask:

For an r33 GTS-t stock turbo,

1) when pple say the stock turbo shouldnt be pushed past 14psi, do they mean the boost made at the turbo or are they refering to the boost at the manifold? Im asking coz if i have u 2psi drop across the cooler piping, then saying that the stock turbo is good for 14, really means istd good for 16 if ur measuring it from the manifold.

2) If a turbo has a life of 60,000km, wouldnt boosting it to say 10 -12psi (from 7) mean thats its life is shortened by at least a 1/3? If ur buying a 2nd hand car, the turbo prob has less than 30,000 left, so boosting it could mean u have 20,000kms or less? Since in a typical year u would drive 15 -20,000kms how can ppl say 10 - 12psi is reliable when the turbo will most likely blow within a year and a half?

3) Is it normal for a r33 GTS-t to pull unbelievably hard in 1st gear, very good in 2nd, but pretty poorly in third gear, even up to redline? Is this signs of the turbo maxing out?

1) Typically people are referring to boost at the plenum as thats where most of us are getting our boost signal from. It would have to be a pretty ordinary intercooler and piping to have a pressure drop of more than .5 psi at the sort of power we are talking about here. 12-14psi is what most people will say is a good idea to maintain any sort of reasonable lifespan.

2) Turbo life is a lot longer than 60,000km's these days, some of the current crop of factory bb turbos will see well over that if left alone and fed good clean oil. I'd be surprised to discover more than a handful of people who have had to replace a stock turbo before 100k as it's just gotten old rather than it's been over boosted or the engine has been maintained poorly. My car had 100k on it when i bought it and the turbo lasted another 60k. I started modding almost immediately after buying it and had boost up to 16psi on occassion. It didn't spit the wheel out the exhaust, it just got noisey in the end so i replaced it.

3) Couldn't tell you, but consider a stock 33 gtst is up near 1.4 tonnes and makes about 130rwkw give or take. It's not going to accelerate particularly hard once your out of the first couple of gears. Add an intercooler, exhaust and boost with say an safc and get your self up around 180-190rwkw and it's a different story.

Im running 13psi at the moment.That is as far as im going with it.Im getting a VG highflow soon so im not that worried.

heck no i wouldnt run the stock turbo past 12.5 psi as the series2 skylines turbochargers are pretty crappy as i blew mine at 12.5 psi... that and i had a few boost spikes to 13.5 psi which prolly blew it up lol

hiflow time! >_<

It's different for everyone. Some people run like 18 psi and they don't blow.

Others run 10 psi and they blow. It's all luck of the draw.

We were muckinng around running an rb25 turbo at 16 psi on an rb20. It gets thrashed every few days, and it's still going strong. Been a while too

hey guys

my series 2 has done 150k and stil on the stock turbo, it was dynoed just 2 weeks ago and made 193rwkw on 10psi and 199.3 on 12psi. ive only ever had it on 12psi maybe 6 times and it goes great. basically what im trying to say is this, with the right components in your car it will comfortably handle 12psi and deliver great resuls and will last you as mine has me.

i suggest you invest in an ebc to stop the spiking and keep your car healthy as other ppl have said its not just the boost that matters, but the entire setup.

  • 7 months later...

By the way, who manufactured the stock turbo on the R33s? A mate asked, and I know it, but I'm drawing a blank at the moment. It's some really boring company name like Hitachi or some bl00dy thing, but I don't remember!

Anyone?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...