Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate is looking to buy a R33 Skyline or either a N14 sss and spend say 5k on engine mod's,what car would you rather drive and what would be quicker over the 1/4?? I've heard stock R33 non-turbo's arent that quick but he's not sure what he wants to do. Im not sure what to tell him either as i havent driven or been in a non-turbo 33. I know i can expect biased answers being on a 'skyline' forum but just thought id ask. :laugh:

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Brady

Edited by brady89

he's only on his p's so he wont be able to turbo the pulsar for another 2 years, but still with the mods he'll do if he gets the pulsar he can expect to be running mid to high 14's

Edited by brady89

Get the Pulsar or a HOnda Civic Vti-r for similar money if you can afford it

Don't bother wasting too much money on modding it just drive it around cheap mods and when you reach the age/full licence get your turbo car and enjoy

my 2c.

:laugh:

a skyline with no turbo is like a fat kid with no cake. no one's happy.

LOL so true.

I wouldn't go either, or atleast I wouldn't do up the pulsar. The SSS stock is probably it, maybe some suspension and be happy, anything else is a waste of money... definately not the r33 NA.

Actually on second thoughts.. the NA r33 would have to be the worst skyline evar.

Have you also considered:

Renaultsport Clio 172

Honda Civic VTi

Honda CRX

Peugeot 205 GTi

Mitsubishi FTO

Toyota MR2

S15 Silvia AUTECH (147kw non-turbo)

Mitsubishi Magna VRX

HSV XU6

XU6 apparently meets VIC power to weight rules, not sure about rulings in other states. My home state of WA doesn't have this P-Plate restriction cr@p, so I don't pay too much attention.

Not necessarily saying any of these are better or worse then the Skyline or SSS, just showing you that there are heaps of other options around for a solid first car.

the missus has a n15 sss pulsar (used to be mine). with just extractors, 2" exhaust, with centre muffler and rear muffler (not cannon), and a k&n panel filter and it dyno'd at just over 112hp (about 84kw).

they torque steer a bit in first gear, but are great fun to drive. and will just beat falcons and commodores. you just have to rev them. without extractors they start to choke at about 5500rpm, but with them they come alive and pull hard till redline (7500rpm).

i can't comment on the NA r33, but i think it wouldn't be as fun as the pulsar.

will also add that the pulsars are very reliable.

Edited by mad082

facts:

r33 na

(pos) rb25de eng

RWD

easy to mod

funn to drive

n15sss pulsar

sr20de

fwd

easy to get eng mods

toqure stear.

mychoice

r31 skyline apx 1500-4000g rwd

3.0L 6 cyl

easy to turbo, can get manual,

can spend so much more then if to buy a 33 or n15 as u would have more cash left over

or get r31 gts-r coupe with a rb20det 2dr and still cheap to buy apx 8k

facts:

r33 na

(pos) rb25de eng

RWD

easy to mod

funn to drive

n15sss pulsar

sr20de

fwd

easy to get eng mods

toqure stear.

mychoice

r31 skyline apx 1500-4000g rwd

3.0L 6 cyl

easy to turbo, can get manual,

can spend so much more then if to buy a 33 or n15 as u would have more cash left over

or get r31 gts-r coupe with a rb20det 2dr and still cheap to buy apx 8k

the reason why i say to get the 31 is that it is a beginers car, its easy to drive and fun to drive, it may not be the farstest but if u'r just learing its pretty good to start of whith. then do some mods of u'r choiseing and then u can have a pretty decent car that would probably cost the same as a r33 and be for unique.

Get a nice ti pulsar - cheaper insurance and it has the same running gear as the sss

We just sold ours to buy my r33 (heh :D) but i loved driving it - was lowered, exhaust, stereo...fun daily

err... R31 non turbs?

that slow AND ugly as hell

Took the words right out of my mouth :D ......wait till the full license mate and get a proper Skyline....and by the looks of R33 Pricess in a another 2 years you can buy one for free....oh...the owner might give you some $$$.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...