Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i havent gotten the knock sensor to work either but i think the jumper is still set to read intake temperature (jp16 i believe).

my worry is when i tried to play with my launch control (ignition cut control), when i set it to 3000rpm it would come on at 3500rpm. same if i did it at 3500rpm, it actually came on at 4000rpm.

and when it actually engaged i got all of these errors come up saying that there was no signal for ignition (WTF??). im 100% sure ive set it up properly, is there a jumper setting that i missed somewhere?

also, how does the ignition cut feature work exactly?

how do i set it up properly? can someone give me a quick rundown on how to use it?

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have the (E) board Trent

and yeah first thing i did is check all the wiring and jumper settings in relation to knock etc

my water sensor is not wired in i believe what is wired in is Knock 1 and knock 2

maybe that is where the trouble starts

should I wire in the temp and only one knock sensor (number 2) ???

if you have time on weekend I can give you a call and we can have another look at it

Been working With TRUST JAPAN on a plug and play EMANAGE ULTIMATE kit For R33, so hopefully soon we will be able to supply a plug in. no hassle emanage ultimate solution/ equivalent to the PFC for those who are wire-in challenged.

thats good news :)

so will the plug and play kit have any effect on the over all tune on a r33 or wil jsut be exactly the same just alot easier to fit? :S

so when i order mine to get use of full features i will need these parts

-15901500

-15901501

-15500501

is that all because that is only lik 600 bucks?

thanks!

Edited by phenline

the emanage ultimate unit itself should be about 800-900.

and unless you are currently using the emanage blue those 1 of those part numbers won't be needed, and unless you are planning on wiring it in yourself you won't need the other one, you'd just get the plug and play harness.

15500501 = emanage ultimate unit

15921506 = plug and play harness, just needs 2 wires changed over for the r33.

then if you want to remove the afm you also need a map sensor and sensor adaptor.

15500501AU $ 524.80AU $ 556.92 E-Manage Ultimate

well that was the price i was looking at for it. So would you happen to knwo the Item Code for the map sensor and the sensor adaptor becuase removing the afm would be the way to go i think?

cheer

I have the (E) board Trent

and yeah first thing i did is check all the wiring and jumper settings in relation to knock etc

my water sensor is not wired in i believe what is wired in is Knock 1 and knock 2

maybe that is where the trouble starts

should I wire in the temp and only one knock sensor (number 2) ???

if you have time on weekend I can give you a call and we can have another look at it

yep thats the issue it is wired up wrong :huh:

i looked at your logs again and it is NOT logging knock for some reason i saved your log as one of cats old ones and i did not notice until i lost my shit and viewed all channels and saw map sensor V"s.... the penny dropped and i realised what was wrong.

you have to use the launch control setting of the ignition cut. i don't have the software on this computer so i can open it up to tell you the exact bit, but under the ignition tab of the settings there is a box where you can set the rpm you want to to run, and the throttle % you want it to work from. i think standard it is set at 50% throttle, so you have to have 50% throttle and be not moving before it works. if you only go to 49% throttle it will rev up to redline. but then it is also setup standard that the moment it registers that you are moving it will rev to redline. you can set this so that it will keep the revs at the set level untill you are moving a bit faster. there is a speed signal box near it where you input the number for it to go from launch to normal.

you have to use the launch control setting of the ignition cut. i don't have the software on this computer so i can open it up to tell you the exact bit, but under the ignition tab of the settings there is a box where you can set the rpm you want to to run, and the throttle % you want it to work from. i think standard it is set at 50% throttle, so you have to have 50% throttle and be not moving before it works. if you only go to 49% throttle it will rev up to redline. but then it is also setup standard that the moment it registers that you are moving it will rev to redline. you can set this so that it will keep the revs at the set level untill you are moving a bit faster. there is a speed signal box near it where you input the number for it to go from launch to normal.

ok im kind've understanding it now. i didnt know that the V.S was the vehicle speed input. i might read up on it a little more, maybe ill figure out how to set it up properly.

this is the settings box:

post-13452-1186031628_thumb.jpg

i have played around with it a little bit, but not with vehicle speed. just sitting there reving it. i haven't actually set it up and tried to launch off it either. and i haven't plaid with the ignition adjust of it either. it does bounce a bit when you hit it, but possibly altering the ignition timing may get it ro rev a bit more smoothly may help it hold the revs a bit more steady.

i have played around with it a little bit, but not with vehicle speed. just sitting there reving it. i haven't actually set it up and tried to launch off it either. and i haven't plaid with the ignition adjust of it either. it does bounce a bit when you hit it, but possibly altering the ignition timing may get it ro rev a bit more smoothly may help it hold the revs a bit more steady.

yeah thats what ive done. the remap on my car has made the new fuel cut at around 7700rpm, i used the ignition cut feature to make it come in at 7300 but im not happy with how it comes on i might need to make it -20 as its now at -10. -20 makes it backfire a bit and im just not sure if its safe for it to be taking that much timing away at that high of a rev.

i just need to figure out the other settings to make it work properly.

yeah thats what ive done. the remap on my car has made the new fuel cut at around 7700rpm, i used the ignition cut feature to make it come in at 7300 but im not happy with how it comes on i might need to make it -20 as its now at -10. -20 makes it backfire a bit and im just not sure if its safe for it to be taking that much timing away at that high of a rev.

i just need to figure out the other settings to make it work properly.

Do you realise that the retard is designed to be used to build boost and is meant to be used in conjunction with the launch control? we managed to get some pretty good boost on the rb at 4000rpm :(... only issue is with ours there is no spd signal (no loom or sensor) so we cant actually use the launch control feature :(

Do you realise that the retard is designed to be used to build boost and is meant to be used in conjunction with the launch control? we managed to get some pretty good boost on the rb at 4000rpm :(... only issue is with ours there is no spd signal (no look or sensor) so we cant actually use the launch control feature :(

do you mind giving us a run down on how we would use the feature? i.e. by giving us some usual settings and what they mean?

pretty please ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...