Stability Under Brakes And Car Walking Around

[Cubes]

Yes.. On a perfectly smooth road it would wander around slightly; jumping off the throttle would have it feel like it darted to the right slightly.

Give it a boot full on a road that is uneven and you could really feel the rear end steering the car requiring lots of steering input.

My subframe bushes were exceptionally bad; the two fronts were leaking excessively.

I fixed the subframe bushes and now the hicas rack has decided its had enough and its time to throw a lock bar on it.

I can jack the car up and wiggle the back wheels side to side excessively; within the last couple of days it feels like the subframe bush problem is back. Feels near identical but doesn't seem to dart around when getting on or off the throttle suddenly as the buggered subframe bushes did.

Unsure if you blokes have CBC (consolidated bearing company) over there but they seem to think they have rose joint rack ends suitable for the R32 GTST rear. I'll pull mine off over the next week or so and see if what they have matches up.

[Roy]

That would be good. Im going to park my car for a while as i had another kind of close call today trying to drive around little gremlins. Need to get soem decent rotors that dont crack after a few hard stops and get the bushes all sorted and tie the car down a bit better. With all the ectra mid range torque i now have with a belly full of boost it makes the car a little too entertaining to drive fast

[Duncan]

BTW we run a breather on the rear diff with a hose up to the boot like the front diff on a gtr.

Is your car actually straight? Chris's r31 used to crab, turned out it was just crooked from hitting too many walls. Surely a new 32 gtst shell is cheap because no-one wants them?

we had a lot of trouble with the rear of mark's gtr feeling loose turned out to be the ball joints at the end of the hicas rack - we put solid nylon bushes with a bolt thru in there instead. So he promptly drove it off a cliff.

[giant]

roy

we had that unstability feeling in the rear too under power and hard braking, (if you can get it on a hoist get a big bar in there and check all your bushes, our lower control arms were moving around and like duncan said the rods ends were also moving, so we changed them to polyurethane and it still actually had just as much movement !! and didnt fix the problem, we then put in solid alloy bushes in the control arms pivot points to check if we were on the right path and bingo much better, so we bought control arms with proper solid rod ends and the car is heaps better for it!

also with you going through brakes it means you are working them hard because you are driving hard and also proably getting great grip on semi's, we could get about 2 or 3 mm a side on the rear in bush movement (even though they looked fine) with a big bar in there, can you imagine whats happeing when you go hard under brakes and both rear wheels move back and outwards generally heaps of toe out and very unstable.

hope this makes sense ( getting late)

cheers russ

[Roy]

Eek. More momney. But thansk for the responses.

And Duncan, the car is actually straight even though she has tasted armco/tyres.

[BHDave]

you've mentioned in another thread that your rack ends were shot haven't you roy? It's a relatively cheap fix, even buying new nissan, atleast in comparison to upgraded shocks and springs and stuff (which won't be able to perform anyway if your alignment can change as loading changes). I think you'll find that will make a huge difference to the stability.

Alloy collars are cheap, easy to install and will stop any excess movement of the subframe if you can handle a bit more nvh.

Giant mentioned the movement in the rear arms, makes me wonder whether i have wasted a lot of money by doing all the bushes....though id be interested to know whether your car has the larger diameter shorter bushes or the smaller longer z32 style ones on the lower control arm. Mine has the smaller ones.

[giant]

I think mine had the large diameter bushes, funny thing was when we went to polyurethane bushes i was able to get as much movement out of them as i could with the standard bush when checking it with a pry bar.

[Roy]

you've mentioned in another thread that your rack ends were shot haven't you roy? It's a relatively cheap fix, even buying new nissan, atleast in comparison to upgraded shocks and springs and stuff (which won't be able to perform anyway if your alignment can change as loading changes). I think you'll find that will make a huge difference to the stability.

Alloy collars are cheap, easy to install and will stop any excess movement of the subframe if you can handle a bit more nvh.

Giant mentioned the movement in the rear arms, makes me wonder whether i have wasted a lot of money by doing all the bushes....though id be interested to know whether your car has the larger diameter shorter bushes or the smaller longer z32 style ones on the lower control arm. Mine has the smaller ones.

Yep...you are right. They are all shagged and have been for years. The suspension was repalced because it simply wasnt up to the speed of the car...re replacing the rack ends...they are next on teh list and will probably get done at the same time as the cradle bushes. Im thinking about gettign all adjustable arms rather then bushes...want to do it all in one hit before driving all the way to Sydney for a few track days next month.

At this stage im told the alloy subframe bushes are easier/cheaper to fit so will be takign that road. To hell with NVH...im on a budget baby

[BHDave]

If you are going all adjustable arms i think you will have to get used to nvh very quickly....

[Roy]

My car is a well trashed bucket of sh1t. Its so noisy with squeeks and clunks and 193,000kms....NVH could be a good thing as it will drown out all the FAN, (farking annoying noises)

[battery]

whats NVH?

[Roy]

Noise Vibration and Harshness...similar to a night on the shitter after a dodgy vindaloo