Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am just interested in what everyone thinks of this tune....and if It good for road.

I asked for mid range punch....and everyday driving conditions......

I have not driven it yet....disregard old tune...boost controller was not set up correctly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=92010

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163761-is-this-a-good-tune/
Share on other sites

All of the technical info is available in RB26 turbo upgrades.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...80&start=80

Set up at 1.25Bar

Yes I know it is a bit wonky...this is why I am asking this question.

I have been told it is not on shoot-out mode......which is at 15km intervals on the graph...but at 5km interval,therefore plots are marked up and down.......making a more precise type curve

Your down around 50rwkw give or take i reckon aswell knowing your basically using 2530's

I have been told it is not on shoot-out mode......which is at 15km intervals on the graph...but at 5km interval,therefore plots are marked up and down.......making a rounder type curve

Have you even looked at the graph dude?

Its RPM based, not km/h based. :sorcerer:

I think someone is leading you up the garden path.

Your down around 50rwkw give or take i reckon aswell knowing your basically using 2530's

Have you even looked at the graph dude?

Its RPM based, not km/h based. :sorcerer:

I think someone is leading you up the garden path.

RPM and SPEED(KM's and hour) are both the same.

As for the 50RWKW I am under.....I believe his dyno needs to be callibrated...I have been told he is always 30 to 40KS's less than other tuning houses.

Im sorry, every dyno shop says their dyno reads lower, that way if you get more power somewhere else you cant blame them. Plotting is no different in shootout or non shootout mode. If their dyno reads low, dont you think they would be the first to get it calibrated? To be perfectly honest, i dont see how cars can be tuned to give a wavy power graph, on a power run it only goes through about 15 load cells, and as long as the numbers dont jump all over the place ive always found the curve to be smooth as long as there is no missfire. Can you get a graph of AFR's?

RPM and SPEED(KM's and hour) are both the same.

As for the 50RWKW I am under.....I believe his dyno needs to be callibrated...I have been told he is always 30 to 40KS's less than other tuning houses.

I stand by my comment about the garden path.

Definately sounds like someone is taking you for a run.

There are plenty of well known, proven workshops in Vic.

Just go to one of them

i can't be in shootout mode mate as it's not a dyno dynamics dyno. i have nfi if it's a good tune or not. maybe your engine has 60psi compression and the tuner did an amazing job just to get that power. on the other hand it could be a really good engine, with a really poor tune. and yes, every single dyno shop says their dyno reads low...

Id have to aggree with the up and down waves on the tune, usually they are alot smoother than that aswell, looks almost like up and down "fluctuating" boost in that area or wavey afrs whos to tell tho easiest also would be an afr curve and or boost curve may help in determining these things as well as barons comments its hard to say health engine or not

Thank you for your comments....I will try and get a afr graph and post it up soon....tuner will not be in town till thursday.

The state of the engine also has a lot to do with the max power.....I agree.

Was unaware that most tuners said that their dyno's showed lower readings than the others.....would have thought they would have the highest reading to lure the client back.(ie)"look at that great curve...look at that power I was able to tune in.."

When is the next Dyno day for SAU(VIC)...would love to see all the cars rated on the same dyno.

Dynamic Test systems are usually very good dynos.... every bit as good as Dyno Dynamics. That wavy section could be a myriad of things.... roller traction etc...

power for GT2530's is average though.

boostd mate. inlet cam and exhaust cam are two different things. you can't compare settings on his inlet cam to your exhaust cam. it's quite common to retard the ex cam and advance the inlet cam on rb26.

Whether the power curve is smooth or not can be a function of the scale of the dyno graph itself. Some tuners are known for making the vertical scale on a boost or AFR curve massive so the AFR and/or boost curve looks very flat.

In saying that I would expect more power everywhere with 2530's.

boostd mate. inlet cam and exhaust cam are two different things. you can't compare settings on his inlet cam to your exhaust cam. it's quite common to retard the ex cam and advance the inlet cam on rb26.

Yes, thanks for that. It's well known that retarding the exhaust cam will increase exhaust gas flow at low rpm in turn bringing boost on earlier, The advanced inlet cam causes a lumpy idle and better efficiency at high rpm....which can be seen on the dyno graph. I wasn't comparing the cams, but, what the different settings will acheive. His exhaust cam has been set at 0

Maybe the timing belt is loose and the cams would dial into in+2/ex-4 who knows, however comparing before and after graph lines its pretty obvious the tune favours top end by the shifted torque peak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...