Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those that know how bad the factory interior paint is on the R34's (seems to dissolve in the Aussie heat)

I've found a low-semi gloss alternative that seems pretty good, Powerplus PJ9184 "SNB 150 Desert Rose Metallic"

Just soak/scrub the original paint off with metho, takes no time at all, prime and hit with this stuff and in comes out looking pretty swish again.

console.jpg

  • Like 1

lol....that shift knob took some pure luck to get! I thank a certain member of SAU for taking me up on my offer...I literally stumbled on it in the for sale section....and yes it is awesome!

Tamiya (model) spray paint I tells ya....no priming necessary, great range of colours and they are meant for plastic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=91076

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=91075

Mate good work, You funny enough picked the same colour as I did .. For your infomation it is very similar to the GTR paint work .. except it extends the entire length of the dash.

In regards to wiping off with metho .. big no no, that particular paint is very sticky when you apply metho, which means bumpy surface for new coat...

To remove spray on a plastic primer or spray paint, let top dry .. hit it and sand it back bare with a 600+ grit paper. it works best because it removes the paint in chunks and its quite easy..

Using metho is just too hard..

Now dont forget to use a plastic primer undercoat to make it stick hard!

About 4 layers of clear will ensure a long lasting protection system from scratches..

and make sure you mask that damn AC control .. I dodged mine need to sand it back im pissed every time I look at her.

Enjoy your job it well done, hope you remembered to do the window/mirror controls too because they have the same shit paint!

In regards to wiping off with metho .. big no no, that particular paint is very sticky when you apply metho, which means bumpy surface for new coat...

You've got to soak it, I mean literally dice it in metho otherwise yes it will be sticky. Sit all the parts in a shallow tray, submerge where possible and the paint falls off with little to no help...get one of those kitchen pads with the green on one side. If you're not up to your elbows in metho, you're not doing it right :dry: You'll be back to virgin black plastic in no time.

With the A/C you need to pop the plastic screen out *carefully* when you're done glue it back in as you would have damaged some clips for sure. Same for the red and blue bit, cut of the melted plastic pins that hold it in, the glue them in when done. There's nothing easier than just painting the whole thing without worrying about masked edges.

Good one you gave me insparation to do do mine. But instead of metho i used gp thinners and a white scouring pad. The hardest part was putting it all back together. I had some left over paint so mines proton gti silver. ha

hey man where are u located, are u able to help me do mine like that it looks awesome

Good one you gave me insparation to do do mine. But instead of metho i used gp thinners and a white scouring pad. The hardest part was putting it all back together. I had some left over paint so mines proton gti silver. ha

So have you painted the gauge section, air con etc as well?

The picture is a bit iffy for my eyes because the flash might have just made it look that way..

Looks good though :blink: same for Dan's too.

Yeah you have to be patient that's all, remove the A/C plastics carefully and you'll get a professional finish.

Yeah my one is GTR style (even bought the brushed aluminium dash insert for the gauges) the gear surround is sonic silver (Nissan) and the A/C and triple gauges are Desert Rose metallic.

For those that know how bad the factory interior paint is on the R34's (seems to dissolve in the Aussie heat)

I've found a low-semi gloss alternative that seems pretty good, Powerplus PJ9184 "SNB 150 Desert Rose Metallic"

Just soak/scrub the original paint off with metho, takes no time at all, prime and hit with this stuff and in comes out looking pretty swish again.

console.jpg

hey mate looks good, but what are those 3 gauges in the single din console, what brand are they? what were they worth and what are they measuring?

i did my r34 door window control plastic and centre console as well... gloss black.... the factory finish is pretty poor and scratches easy... only part i havent done is the pods where the 3 factory guages are.... how do you take that off without wrecking it??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...