Jump to content
SAU Community

Shitty Series 1 R34 Interior Plastic Paint


Recommended Posts

Recently i did all the plastics for my mates 34,heres some pics for you guys that wanted to see what a black colour would look like.its called saturn black its also heat and chemical resistant. theres some befores and afters in there too.

post-38410-1212382807_thumb.jpg

post-38410-1212382865_thumb.jpg

post-38410-1212382923_thumb.jpg

post-38410-1212382971_thumb.jpg

post-38410-1212383033_thumb.jpg

post-38410-1212383072_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

has anyone done this on a r34 with the popup screen? What extra steps are involved if anyone knows ???

Also does anyone know a good shadow silver/charcoal paint colour? I don't wanna do it up in black so as to leave a bit of contrast (like the original)

Oh and does anyone know if you can replace the led/light inside the radio/AC Unit ? my dash leds are blue and the radio/ac are green so I'd like to change these to blue as well when I take all of it out

Jack, any chance of taking a couple of piccies of your mates interior now with all of it back in place? Good work by the way, wish I had mates like you :P Cheers

Edited by Delta Force
Link to comment
Share on other sites

has anyone done this on a r34 with the popup screen? What extra steps are involved if anyone knows ???

Also does anyone know a good shadow silver/charcoal paint colour? I don't wanna do it up in black so as to leave a bit of contrast (like the original)

Oh and does anyone know if you can replace the led/light inside the radio/AC Unit ? my dash leds are blue and the radio/ac are green so I'd like to change these to blue as well when I take all of it out

Jack, any chance of taking a couple of piccies of your mates interior now with all of it back in place? Good work by the way, wish I had mates like you :banana: Cheers

In my first post I've got a recommended colour for the plastic, go to supercheap and check it out, it's a good match :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recently i did all the plastics for my mates 34,heres some pics for you guys that wanted to see what a black colour would look like.its called saturn black its also heat and chemical resistant. theres some befores and afters in there too.

So you sprayed them all white as an undercoat, and then used the saturn black as a 2nd coat??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

What about those duplicolor brands.. are they any good? they have the pewter color that matches nissan sonic silver which the guy from autobarn showed me from the book.

Do you Guys spray clear coatings after applying the paint?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used 3 coats of clear coat on the trim parts I painted. A bit overkill and when the sun was out the gauge cluster would reflect a bit onto the windshield

would probably need 2 coats max for the gauge cluster, put as many coats as you like on the rest :(

I posted these somewhere before but here's my effort:

DSC04159.jpg

DSC04259.jpg

DSC04265.jpg

I used powerplus paints too

Edited by Yo-Yo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys, how do you take off the aircon surround??

hmm okay i had a look at it,

aircon is gonna be a tricky one to do with the red & blue temps around the dial which i want to keep.

ill do everything else tho.

see how i go

good to do over the xmas break :)

Edited by dori32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks very nice .. I'm gonna do the same to mine but do the vents and aircon and perhaps the top lcd cover (I have that popup screen) in black. Then find some nice silver pedals and a silve bezel insert for the console and the car shouldn't look so 1998 anymore (maybe a bit more like 1999) :banana:

Speaking of which I'm going to go and rip out my (broken) lcd now ..wish me luck!

Edited by Delta Force
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i wanna do mine but the only thing that worries me is the AC controls. the blue and red thing around the knob did you guys just tape it up and spray painted the whole thing???

and can some one provide a step to step process and dismantling the ac unit???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the whole centre console (ac, stereo etc) slides out .. it's just 4 screws holding it in there. The blue/red on the AC is piss easy, just take them out as well as the clear plastic and spray the rest. Then glue them back in afterwards, it's no big deal trust me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it's all just clipped in ... the only thing you should be careful about is removing the vents - use a thin screwdriver from the left hand side and they'll pop out too. Make sure to protect the corners with masking tape to avoid accidental scratches when poping out vents and sliding out the console etc

To reveal the 4 screws holding it all in place, remve the gear shifter surround (pops out once you remove the screw behind the ashtray) and the vents - don't try removing any other fascias whilst the console is still in there. The vents will reveal the remaining 2 screws.

Edited by Delta Force
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...