Project 24

[jdmser]

I'd like to know your compression ratio. I had JE make my pistons for 8.5 to 1. I used 52cc for the combustion camber volume, measured the block height myself, and took the rest of the specs from Tomei. I just noticed that they list their rb24 pistons with a 5.2cc piston crown volume. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...ston-specs.html

[huddy]

^^ what would this make tomei's compression?

[jdmser]

I believe the Tomei pistons have a 7.9/1 cr. Which seems likely to me since my 8.5/1 pistons have a 8.5cc dome and the Tomei's have a 5.2cc dome. I got my deck clearance by subtracting my rod length plus half the stroke plus the compression height from the block height. This gave me 0.0661" of deck clearance. After over boring to 82mm in my case this effectively increases the combustion chamber lowering the compression ratio. Then the dome brings it back up to the stock 8.5/1.

[murrayis]

I took mine out to 83mm, mechanic told me the CR should be wne done around the 7.9:1 to 8:1 he couldn't remember. I am still waiting on an email back from ROSS with the piston specs.

[huddy]

so what CR will it be with the HG you are using? (sorry for the q's just trying to figure out what my CR could be with tomei pistons/1.2 tomei HG)

thanks

[murrayis]

Finally heard back from Ross pistons, below is the data they sent through to me.

Note its all in imperial

________________________________________________________________________

3.465 A dimension (for Ross engineering dept only)

56690 Ross Job Card (number on piston)

7/8/2008 Date Pro/Engineer program was run

TEST CP Program run by

0.326 Deck thickness major front

0.312 Deck thickness major rear

0.173 Minimum thickness under intake valve pocket

0.180 Minimum thickness under exhaust valve pocket

0.200 Minimum thickness at top of flat top / dome / dish

0.367 Minimum thickness of dish to top ring groove

0.251 Intake valve pocket to top ring groove

0.270 Exhaust valve pocket to top ring groove

Lox to oil ring groove

0.153 Skirt

N/A Side relief

Spark Plug notch

Spark Plug slot

0.114 Pin hole to side of pin boss

0.680 Pin engagement in pin bosses (each side)

Edited July 8, 2008 by murrayis

[murrayis]

Update:

My new intake plenum and SARD fuel rail arrived on Tuesday. I got them to make some mounts so I could use the SARD fuel rail on a rb20 plenum. I only have 2 pic's of the plenum atm.

I am Expecting my 6boost Manifold to arrive tonight once Kyle drops it off

Also forgot I received my new wastegate in the mail today fresh from the USA

Edited July 17, 2008 by murrayis

[murrayis]

Well thanks to Kyle from 6Boost for dropping my new Exhaust Manifold off at 11:30 last night, I am now able to finish up the engine build as far as bolt on's go. Heres a couple of pics of the manifold, is A highmount T4 Split Pulse.

Cheers

Cameron

[bubble1984]

Well thanks to Kyle from 6Boost for dropping my new Exhaust Manifold off at 11:30 last night, I am now able to finish up the engine build as far as bolt on's go. Heres a couple of pics of the manifold, is A highmount T4 Split Pulse.

Cheers

Cameron

any updates on the build?

[murrayis]

Well yes there is, yesterday afternoon I was bored and had just got the last bits for the gearbox form nissan so put all that together and put the engine and box back in the car.

I must say I am never doing that again by myself! My poor engine crane paid the toll and has a nice arch in the beam now. I will post some pics a little later after i tidy it up abit.

Cameron

[Wheezy]

That exhaust manifold is a work of art....

[murrayis]

Indeed it is, Not bad for a 1 week turn around from kyle. The only thing I had to do to the manifold was TIG on a 45 degree bend for the wastegate

[murrayis]

Heres a couple of pics, the engines pretty much just sitting in there at the moment

Still have to finish off porting the intake manifold ot match the head its half done, then just a matter off mounting the gearbox up 100% running all the oil and water lines, and get a tailshaft.

Can anyone recommend a place around the western subs in brisbane who make tailshafts?

Edited August 8, 2008 by murrayis

[murrayis]

Ok so I am planning on getting the engine started this weekend. I just finished the wiring tonight and decided to turnthe key and jsut crank it over to move some oil around a couple of things i noticed.

1) Theres a hissing sound coming from the dip stick that slowly tappers down after you stop cranking like pressure build up and slowly leaking out

2) oil pressure guage on the dash doesnt move but the light does fliker a little bit

Is this normal for a fresh built engine? Or shold I be looking into it before I try to start it all?

[acsplit]

you will never get the guage to read on cranking, lift a rocker cover off and check their is oil in the top end.

then fire it up quickly if you oil pressure in 10 seconds then shut it down and check again

[R31Nismoid]

Indeed it is, Not bad for a 1 week turn around from kyle. The only thing I had to do to the manifold was TIG on a 45 degree bend for the wastegate

you might want to be careful there, i remember someone else posting about doing something similar and it caused boost control issues

[murrayis]

Hmm intresting, I will have to give it a go and see how it turns out. I will Check under the tocker covers to see if theres oil in the head.

[murrayis]

Well the hot day it is here in Brisbane we decided to crank the engine over and get her running. After a bit aof head scratching of why the injectors weren't firing we jiggled the ecu wiring harness and all of a sudden they worked.

A couple of small things I have to sort out before it goes off the be tuned.

1) Retension the timing belt as its a little to tight and sitting a bit far back on the gears for our liking

2) Finish interncooler piping

3) make it run on 6 cyl instead of 5

[murrayis]

Well I spent a good part of today checkeing all the electrical connections and cables in my car to do with the coils and injectors it all turned out fine, but came across the number 3 injector wasn;t firing where in previous tests it was.

Isolated the injector and disconnected all the coils so no chance of blowing myself up, i took the injector out to see if it was blocked which it wasnt put 12v directly onto it... nothing gave it a quick tap with a screwdriver and tried 12v again and ot mu surprise it clicked gave it 10 mins and tried it again and it clicked. So I installed it back into the fuel rail adjusted the tension on the timing belt while I was in there, also found the steel plate behind the crank sproket was rubbing on the oil pump so pressed that a bit flatter so it cleared the pump and put all the timing belt and balancer back in.

Fired her up after a nice BANG! that my poor puppy is still trying to recover from, still have to adjust the idle a tad as its still at 2000rpm. I recorded a lil vid of the sound of it sitting at 2k idling

[Psymon]

Looking good. What sort of plenum is that you're using?