Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have the 2530 strapped onto my rb20 atm with a few other supporting mods.

as soon as a dyno day comes around, it'll be on the dyno getting a power figure. hoping for around 200kwrw on about 1-1.1bar.

gotta sort out the running rich issue first tho.

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i have the 2530 strapped onto my rb20 atm with a few other supporting mods.

as soon as a dyno day comes around, it'll be on the dyno getting a power figure. hoping for around 200kwrw on about 1-1.1bar.

gotta sort out the running rich issue first tho.

Which ecu?

If you cant afford a pfc to fix the rich issue, try a SAFC?

Just for the record those HKS GT2535's are really just a 2530 with a slightly larger dinosaur 6/12 blade compressor tossed in because Garrett weren't doing the 71.1mm GT35 series compressors at that time like in later GT2871R/GT-RS type turbos . If you got a GT2871R 48T and bolted the HKS T3 flanged turbine (exhaust) housing to it you would have the same approximate deal with a more modern compressor wheel .

HKS got into Garretts GT ball bearing turbos early and for this reason had some combinations of mainly compressors that they don't use today . This is why turbos like 2510's , 2535's and 2540's are no longer made , better combinations developed with later thinking has made them redundant .

Roll on the twin scroll twin integral gate turbos like IHI is supplying to Subaru because they are the way of the future .

Cheers A .

My RB25 HKS 2535, combo made 244rwkw 14psi stock inj and AFM running a PFC.

I then bought injectors, Z32 boost controller etc, no more peak power but a massive amount of midrange was gained from 18psi... The extra boost totally transformed the car!

That same turbo is now on a mates car running 250rwkw at 15psi (i think) with the same setup (ECU, Z32 etc)

I also have another mate with a HKS 2535 on an RB25 with a Wolf 3D, injectors etc and he is running 18psi and 252rwkw...

I dont think they will run much more than 250ish rwkw no matter how much boost they have but the midrange agin on them is amazing at high psi...

I have one of these babies too on my rb20...made 202kwkw at 15psi with ths usual support mods...exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, z32, injectors and remapped ecu...theres a fair bit more left in it i just need a new front pipe as mine is dented and would be restricting flow...also have a 3" metal cat coming in the main to replace the sh!tty 3" cat i have...will turn the boost up and do another tune...then we'll see how it does....

Edited by limpus

Just to add a little further,

HKS 2530 equivalent = GT2860RS = 60mm compressor = 320hp rating

2535 = 69mm compressor = 350-370hp rating, no direct spec equivalent from Garrett

Garrett 2871 48T = 71mm compressor = 380hp rating, no direct spec equivalent released by HKS

Garrett 2871 52T = 71mm compressor with bigger inlet + T25 turbine flange pattern = 400+ hp rating = HKS GT-RS (but this has T3 flange pattern)

Running beyond a compressor's flow capacity will yield more midrange torque for sure, but run them into choke and as everyone's saying you won't make any more high rpm torque and possibly strike detonation issues unless the tuner takes strong notice of what the mechanical specs are and what information is being logged during the process.

Bottom line: do the numbers really matter, or what it does on the road?

Edited by Dale FZ1

robs was a 2535, not a 2530 :domokun:

my 2535 makes about 248kw @ 14-15psi according to what the dyno rekons.. allthough it does sound abit high.....

cln, rob told me no one ever believed it and he did it a number of times to shut people up..

Justin911 is now using that turbo.

And no it wasnt 25psi thru the turbo.

DjeMz: Robs tuning wont disapoint you :)

Im also using a HKS 2535 with a power fc, After market fuel pump, Splitfire coil packs 3 inch turbo back exhaust, GFB bleed valve standard injectors and sandard AFM on a RB25 R33 Series 1 the car pulled 240 rwkw at boostworks

post-26024-1177332107.jpg

:)

Here is what you said:

djemz: rob from creatd is confident 2530s and 2535s are good for 250 and upwards.

with a 2530 he made 255 on his drift 33

When in fact 250rwkw is about the limit for this turbo; NO "upwards" :P

I just stated "260 is optimistic and any claims more is just BS"

Here is my Dyno graph with a before mentioned set-up.

Ignore the red line as the graph is a "b4 and after" comparison when i changed my exhaust system.

post-1811-1179143787_thumb.jpg post-1811-1179143806_thumb.jpg

You can see where the cams and porting come into their own: More usable power and torque (better average power and torque)

I consider the GTRS as the newer version of the GT2535, as it only makes slightly more power and they stopped producing the GT2535 when the GTRS was released.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...