Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the O2 socket has a gap you can slide the wire out of i have one, best investment ever when i need to remove it... But go to your local parts store

its like 20 bucks for hte socket

I see, thought it was one of those $100 tools which you use once every 2-3 years! Will check the local Repco and get a O2 sensor from them too. One size fits all?

thanks for the tip .. I was really not keen on removing that heat sheilding to get a spanner in there.

yeha

but unless you cut off the lead fmor your OLD o2 sensor you cant use a socket

the O2 socket has a gap you can slide the wire out of

i have one, best investment ever when i need to remove it

other option is to take off your o2huosing and then remove with a wrench.

But go to your local parts store

its like 20 bucks for hte socket

I see, thought it was one of those $100 tools which you use once every 2-3 years! Will check the local Repco and get a O2 sensor from them too. One size fits all?

ther eare two sizes that i know of

i got the larger one

it has worked on everything from Mecedes, to hondas, to mitsu, to nissan

Thats exactly the economy my series 2 gets. I earthed the boost solenoid last week, so am interested in how that affects economy. I have a theory (untested) that having higher boost coming on early will assist in moving the weight of the Stag up to cruising speeds easier, so therefore the fuel consumption my even out, or even be slightly better. I will let you know how it goes. It certainly helps the driveability, and means I dont have to sink the right foot as hard as before.

I havent done a trip in the car since getting it a year ago. I was hoping to come up for the skyline show & shine, but had to miss that in favour of the rugby test.

Brief Update. Fuel economy the same as before (420kms). This is good news, given the improvements in mid-range power and torque. Not sure whether one trip is enough evidence to test my theory, but it certainly hasnt gone backwards. :(

lol not me a mate dreamed it up (should open a tool store i reckon), but it does work pretty well, since we cut it down short enough to be able to turn it more easily down on the rear dump pipe which is really tight. Pretty sure it was 22mm which was the other bonus.....who is going to miss a 22mm ring spanner?

try your local autoparts supplier other than the ones mentioned above, i mean small ones they might have it or they will be able to source one for you.

Tried spanner, couldn't get enough "purchase" to twist.

I've ordered a socket from ebay, $22.80 delivered. Hopefully I'll get it next week. Once I have it, anyone in Adelaide need to borrow it, PM me :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...