Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Complete:

Trader Ratings;

  • Fixed adding a comment

  • Fixed member search

  • Fixed multiple variables (IPB 2.2 uses new variable names)

  • Added link to Trader Rating from Members list/search results

  • Fixed Type

  • Added URL input (not yet output)

Email notifications;

  • Fixed paths to sendmail

  • Added FROM field in the headers

Fixed attachments

Fix member group icons

Finished Sphinx search integration

Converted session table to HEAP engine

Installed Memcache to look after the query caching

Fix banners

ToDo:

Add URL output to trader comments

Add Trader details to members profile

Many server optimizations

Fix members' hosted webpages!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

umm either email notifications aren't working or all subscriptions have been lost again (like the upgrade before last)

Hope everything else is going OK with the move. And the baby lol.

Thanks Duncan. :)

Email notification will be the death of me. :rant:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3107117
Share on other sites

trader ratings have a coupe of small probs. when I'm looking at my own, I click on "left for others" i get an error. so I can't see who I have or haven't left ratings for. well not easily.

but it's good to have them back, so I ain't complaining! :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3107920
Share on other sites

problem opening attached images

this error:

Fatal error: Call to undefined function: attach_get_perms() in /var/www/html/forums/ips_kernel/class_db.php on line 590

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...102049&st=0

Happened this arvo 1:30ish

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3108459
Share on other sites

I must say the speed of the new forum is very impressive - should have shifted long ago :domokun: There is nothing like a well tuned US server for reliability..

Do you hand tune the database settings? what db is it running?

I'm just working with a 1million record database at the moment, so just curious, as I'm working on some optimisation myself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3109572
Share on other sites

Predator, I am so happy you said that, I have been so nervous about the performance. It has hardly been tweaked at all so far, just some small MySQL caching changes. I have a bunch more to do over the weekend which will probably help considerably (including a new search engine that will speed searches up by at least 10x).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3109705
Share on other sites

Seems nice and snappy so far..

I guess a lot of it comes down to the efficiency of IPB coding more than anything else - but I assume they have done it as intelligently as possible on that side.

I've found that tweaking a few of the mysql settings can do wonders, especially on larger databases (like I assume the message table on here)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3110406
Share on other sites

Yeah it doesnt take much to make MySQL much quicker.

IPB still needs some work. For eg, when you go to page 2 of a 100 page topic, it will select ALL posts then find the posts for that topic and THEN order them and THEN display the ones for page 2... hence why, at this stage, the whoretown threads kill the system.

IPB 2.3 is being released soon with heaps of performance upgrades... should be much better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3110449
Share on other sites

Yeah it doesnt take much to make MySQL much quicker.

IPB still needs some work. For eg, when you go to page 2 of a 100 page topic, it will select ALL posts then find the posts for that topic and THEN order them and THEN display the ones for page 2... hence why, at this stage, the whoretown threads kill the system.

IPB 2.3 is being released soon with heaps of performance upgrades... should be much better.

well i can fix that problem. :( time for a little whore thread renewal perhaps? out with the old, in with the new.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3110513
Share on other sites

umm

just noticed that my time is out by about 6 minutes

my laptop is accurate internet time,

eg now it is 2:46

but the board reckons its 2:40

gets confusing when posting, cause i look at the time to find out when they posted (specially if its a quick whore reply)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3111306
Share on other sites

ohh something else i came across

dont know if you use this or not, but its a validation website that can check everything about any website

http://validator.w3.org/

as it is there is only one error in the skylines australia webpage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3112575
Share on other sites

hey Christian, this isnt to do with the new server, but i didnt want to start a new topic :nyaanyaa:

whenever I go to do anything, it loads up the page to about 80% and then freezes for about 20secs before loading fully. It's not a major thing but it's like I'm back on dial up LOL

It's only been happening for the last month or so. I use Safari but also tried Firefox and it was exactly the same.

It's just this site... every other site/forum I go to is fine :pwned:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168000-latest-work/#findComment-3113191
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...