Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah it could have been much worse. could have been much better too :rofl:

actually, if my exhaust hadn't melted my rear bar a bit most of it would buff right out... lol.

I thought it might have been worse, oh well as you always say, some rear action is better then nothing!

nah, what I always say is some real action is better than ya mum.

and at least now I'll get some respect from fatz. he rocked up just to call me a pu55y. looks like i took it to heart. hey, all the greats have binned it at some point...

Awww Baron :) thats suxs

Should of come to DECA! :P

But glad its not that bad :rofl:

That's no accident it is just a love tap. fatz would call it a smack up the bum. A little battle scar for the GTR nice. Like Range Rover owners with their can of spary on mud and come to work Monday saying they had a good weekend off road. At least you are out there having a go. YOu sure you weren't having a few beers for mothers day at the track?? Go the Baron.

karma pay back for stuffing aound with the SAU dyno day, he he?? All sorted now and I know this won't stop you.

Edited by Boosted Zed
ahh.. i thought it would have been much worse!! a few scrapes and bump are easily fixed :rofl: hang on.. was this the car that was recently resprayed too? :)

yeah almost exactly a year ago i painted the whole car.

does anyone know the name of the dude that takes photos? i know he was there, but I didn't get a chance to see him at the end of the day. I hope he has some rippers for me.

Not too bad, mate. R+R rear bumper with a bit of paint and some detailing. You're not having too much good luck, but as said above, at least you are out there having a go.

Yes, might be karma for shifting the Dyno Day to the same day as Compak Attak :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...