Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per the topic, can the hicas computer that is mounted underneath the parcel tray in the boot be removed after you remove the hicas system.

Likewise can you remove the computer that is basically identical but on the passenger side of the vehicle, i suspect this computer is the for the abs. Like the hicas computer it is mounted underneath the parcel tray but is on the passenger side of the vehicle, where as what i suspect to be the hicas computer is on the drivers side.

This leads me to wonder if removing these computers will "open" any circuits in the car causing things to function incorrectly. Im also not sure if skylines have speed sensitive steering in any way, ie making the wheel easier to turn at different speeds etc and exaclty what the ecu is using the speed signal for etc.

heres a pic of the two computers im talking about

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

post-4425-1179651654_thumb.jpg

Edited by 2630GTS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169399-removing-the-hicas-computer/
Share on other sites

Sorry to steal the thread,

But is there any special sensor (inertia?) inside the hicas box under the parcel shelf, which means you cant relocate the control box? I want to move mine so its not in the way of my audio gear - but someone said there might be a sensor inside which needs to be level, in the center of the car.

As per the topic, can the hicas computer that is mounted underneath the parcel tray in the boot be removed after you remove the hicas system.

Likewise can you remove the computer that is basically identical but on the passenger side of the vehicle, i suspect this computer is the for the abs. Like the hicas computer it is mounted underneath the parcel tray but is on the passenger side of the vehicle, where as what i suspect to be the hicas computer is on the drivers side.

This leads me to wonder if removing these computers will "open" any circuits in the car causing things to function incorrectly. Im also not sure if skylines have speed sensitive steering in any way, ie making the wheel easier to turn at different speeds etc and exaclty what the ecu is using the speed signal for etc.

heres a pic of the two computers im talking about

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thought: Nissan generally didn't put stuff in the car for no reason.

The module on the passenger side is the ATTESSA computer - so by all means if you are tired of AWD then bin it.

The other computer is the HICAS unit. If you want to remove its function the easiest way to do it is get a Tomei HICAS canceller or a bar that replaces the steering rack. Don't remove the computer if your rear steering rack is still active otherwise you will be on your way to the mother of all accidents......

Thought: god gave u eyes for a reason, And if u used them u would notice i have a HCR32, not a gtr/gts4

I ask this because i have removed the hicas system was wondering since its gone if the computer could go to.

The unit on the passenger side i have since found out is the abs unit, and since im considering removing the abs thought it would be a good time to ask about that also.

thanks for the 2 cents worth tho

Sorry to steal the thread,

But is there any special sensor (inertia?) inside the hicas box under the parcel shelf, which means you cant relocate the control box? I want to move mine so its not in the way of my audio gear - but someone said there might be a sensor inside which needs to be level, in the center of the car.

I moved mine for the same reason. I didnt have any problem so id say there is a 99% chance u will be fine. Maybe ask some of the guys in the car audio section.

The hicas computer is still inline with the speed sensitive steering. If you can figure out a way to maintain the speed signal to the steering when removing the unit it should work.

I have been wondering whether you can just splice the speedo signal wire at the ecu into the solenoid but i'm not game to try and don't have the knowledge to be certain if it would work or blow something up anyway.

I'm pretty sure there's another thread on this topic where they got into the nitty gritty of the signal required and all sorts of shit and it sounded to me like it was just the square wave speed signal which the speed sensor on the back of the speedo puts out.

BHDave: totally wrong type of signal you have there. Frequency modulated fixed duty waveform input as speed reference signal, pulse width modulated fixed frequency output to solenoid.

James. (I'm maybe looking at learning to program PIC's to make up a small converter to do this though.. If I find the time and motivation)

I just ripped my HICAS computer out, the power steering still works, just on the highway mode. It's not that heavy.

But after I dopped my engine out, I didn't hook the power steering wires up properly, so it was stuck in highway mode anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...