Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well.....the real question, what sort of noise are you looking for. Bass Junky was looking into making some replacement induction pipes, aint as easy as you'd think mate. Problem is all the other anti pollution gear and other pipes that connect to the intake between the turbo and the air flow meter. Also the bends are a bit of a bastard :)

Well.....the real question, what sort of noise are you looking for. Bass was looking into making some replacement induction pipes, aint as easy as you'd think mate :)

Was hoping amplify the flutter with the bov blocked off, i know its tricky stuff but i got time... Was thinking about a 3"pipe with a bend and then use a silicon reducers to attach to the turbo, any metal pipe should sound different than the stock rubber pipe.

I wouldn't say better hehe, sounds kinda ghey to me, it's sort of like the air fluttering sound that i like except about 10 times higher pitched and squealy.

Look up "r32 dose" in youtube for a reference, theres a few on there with under engine vids, relocated afm's and the that

to get it sounding ok which was what i had...

Cooler

Pod

metal cooler pipes (although works with anything)

And No Bov...

thats it and away u go..

to make it hardcore like a Bloody VL SICK BRO!!! U get a tiny pipe off the front of the turbo bend it 90 deg down and put a tiny filter on the end...

relocate the afm and ur away...

All your dosing info here :teehee:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28060

When you start running well over stock boost, and have larger intercoolers / intake piping obviously there's a lot more air in the intake system, and it will be at higher pressure - so when you back off the throttle there's a lot of air trying to escape through the compressor. This means it will be slowed down quite quickly and violently, which puts large loads on the turbo bearings, wheels, and shaft. Repeated hammering by high boost backoffs can harm the turbo, and the amount of slowing each time causes a lag when the turbo spools back up after each backoff / gearchange.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...