Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

coverna3.jpg

Gear Knob Warmer

Hand made hat for your gear knob. Available in a range of colours to match your Mini. Pictured is my Electric Blue/EB one, along with a Chilli Red/White one. These are made to order just state in the notes box what colours you want. (p.s. please don't try driving with the warmer in place)

From a Mini Car website lol

i also have a razo gearing knob

it burns like a bitch in summer, cant stand it need a leather one when summer comes

but atm its only cold, all u have to do is rub it a bit(yes rub ur knob) and i dun really see it as a problem

razo gearing knobs are crap, wouldnt get another one even if it 'looks' good

You're forgetting the worst part - metal gear knobs in summer!

I had a Nismo titanium one in the GT-R and remember getting into the car after it had been parked for a few hours in the sun.

I touched the shifter and swear it nearly burned NISMO into my hand.

I felt like this guy...

229.jpg

Gear Knob Warmer

Hand made hat for your gear knob. Available in a range of colours to match your Mini. Pictured is my Electric Blue/EB one, along with a Chilli Red/White one. These are made to order just state in the notes box what colours you want. (p.s. please don't try driving with the warmer in place)

From a Mini Car website lol

how is it going to warm your gear knob? what do they think, the knob has heat or it's own to keep in. some stupid knob design that it :)

hey tekin

i have the same knob i think. just a flush silver razo one

it gets pretty cold in winter, not much u can do. but summer is by far the worst. i struggle to change gears if its in the sun for a few hours

Rekin....nice one...best answer so far' but useless as Kyle stated...but looked good to warm the real knob...

Joshua...If I hardened the f#$k up anymore...I would be a 2 day old stiff..

Shaun...hair drier...how would I explain that to my friends when I have no hair

James....do evos./hummers come with nismo c/f knobs...

Steven...a few more days and I am fitting the original back on..

Paul...I would suggest we both melt them down and make a razo....battery operated shinny thing-ama-jig that looks like a bullet.

Oh...Ash.....some don't have one...so it does not shrink...LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...