Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

p7170077lx6.th.jpg

p7170078vr5.th.jpg

Mods are cooler and exhaust, its in an R32 and everything on the motor is stock... except for the RB20 remapped ecu thats running it.

Dyno run with the 33 ecu was a hell of a lot less. As we all know the stocker hits R&R with raised boost. Now ive got loads of midrange torque and driveability is sweet as.

For the bucks.. its a sweet upgrade for those 33 owners looking for some more poke... chuck those 33 ecu's in the bin.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Those are some nifty results simon. what are you doing to control VCT? I can see it it coming on at 100kmph so in 4th with your diff ratio i am guessing that is around 3700rpm?

really keen on this as i may be going a 25 shortly and would like to retain my ecu and harness

forget about retaining the loom, its a fair wack of work just to do it. Just run the 25 loom with a 20 ecu and you'll be laughing.

No VCT here either, its off and not really needed. Cant say ive noticed any lack of low down.

My rb20 with slide highflow was making 225 rwkw on 16-17 psi with stock injector / afm /remap then i swapped in the 25 which now makes 10 kws less, with stock turbo and had an insane amond of midrange torque compared to the rb20..

Overall im pretty happy with it.

unknown Telly gave it to me when he worked out it wouldnt fit in his 25de

as they were 33 cams one was a 256 hks thing the others a tomei supposedly

could find any info on it but it did have b673465 or something like that on it so sounds like tomei

he's now gone 26 now anyway

Yeah it gets drifted, ive kept it under 1 bar which is to keep it safe, Should be safe at just under 13psi i would say.

I just say it because i've seen a couple turbos @ 12psi let go on track days.

And others who had killed them @ drag days (12-13psi also), and the drag ones are even less time/heat.

Some last some dont, guess its luck of the draw on that one

I just say it because i've seen a couple turbos @ 12psi let go on track days.

And others who had killed them @ drag days (12-13psi also), and the drag ones are even less time/heat.

Some last some dont, guess its luck of the draw on that one

same with soarer's i got a friend been thrashin his poor ceramic turbos @ 14-15psi for nearly 2 years no drama.... but his brothers didnt last a fortnight... lady luck is a bitch

haha turbo tune dyno..... should make 190 everywhere else :D Nice curve though.

Prob been a while since youve been there but they now have the most accurate dyno in Adelaide. If i wanted a high reading i'd go to tilbrooks and wow people with 240 rwkw's from the same set up :)

Prob been a while since youve been there but they now have the most accurate dyno in Adelaide. If i wanted a high reading i'd go to tilbrooks and wow people with 240 rwkw's from the same set up :D

+1 recently had mine dynod there when jeff remapped it and before the remap it pulled a little bit less to what it did at boostworx with the same mods. as said they have a very accurate dyno.

that result is very impressive, if i ever get the $$ ill seriously look at going RB25.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
×
×
  • Create New...