Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

my race car toy (yes a girls car) but catch it if you can!!!!

260kw 850kg power to weight 3.2

post-37870-1234600006_thumb.jpg

dave

ps the other car is the bsm gtr :P

Aww that car is so cute!!!

It made me giggle last time I seen you out at OP...Awesome!!

Just got it home, havent even taken it off the trailer (neighbour is coming over after dinner to help) and im already posting pictures :)

nascup1.jpg

nascup2.jpg

nascup3.jpg

YAY!!!It's Finally here!! :/ Well Done :blink:

Go Ben!

Yup took 5mths longer than it should have because of the dollar crashing which caused a lot of headaches, long story short is instead of importing a brand new kit in pieces from usa (where they are made) i've bought there shop/demo car which is 100% turn key ready to race (well, if I could fit my fat ass into there sparco seat lol). Another bloke in Perth bought the other shop/demo car and that is all that is in the country and its likely to stay that way for awhile unless you want to spend $40k to buy 1.

Because of that its got the same engine used in the actual Aussie Racing Cars which is a 1200cc 125hp 5sp Yamaha motorbike engine. Yup a lot less power than the Hayabusa engine ive had sitting in the garage for the past 4mths but atleast this car is ready to go and if I need more power I can always do an engine swap next year after i've learnt how to steer it.

It weighs approx 540kg so it's not super light like a Radical or the Aussie Race Cars but its no 1500kg gtr, has a 1 piece fibreglass shell with removable engine/boot covers. Entry is via the hatch on the roof (like the american nascars have) has a normal pedal box, adjustable bias, autometer gauges, VL Turbo front calipers, VZ rear calipers with rotors from a Mustang, EBC pads and a fuel cell in the rear.

nascup4.jpg

nascup5.jpg

nascup6.jpg

nascup7.jpg

nascup8.jpg

nascup9.jpg

cool car ben! glad to see you got something finally. it is a shame they let you down so badly though. :D but hey, you've got 'a' car now so hop in and enjoy. take it up to maccas for some drive through I say....

(on the trailer of course...).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...