Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Somebody just buy me a new one with 3 screwie things which bolts to the wall thingie in the engine bay. Its the only thing left in my braking system that could probably do with replacing.

Oh, since the new Alcons i have only accept a 378x36mm thick rotor which is too big for my needs i now have some new Brembos.... so many brake calipers...only one car :cool: LOL, will have to buy a gutted race GTR one day and make it a twelve wheeler so i can use all the brake setups i have laying around :)

Somebody just buy me a new one with 3 screwie things which bolts to the wall thingie in the engine bay. Its the only thing left in my braking system that could probably do with replacing.

Oh, since the new Alcons i have only accept a 378x36mm thick rotor which is too big for my needs i now have some new Brembos.... so many brake calipers...only one car :cool: LOL, will have to buy a gutted race GTR one day and make it a twelve wheeler so i can use all the brake setups i have laying around :)

lol!

roy get yourself one i was amaze at the difference it made, just putting the n1 and my stock r33 gts-t one side by side you can see the size difference.

Hopefully they'll be able to huff and puff down a house or two, atleast these guys house:

3littlepigs.gif

Or maybe not.. :D

They're 2 Borg Warner S256's, on paper they should be able to push up to 1100hp's together, though i doubt ill pass the 4-digit limit, just seems like to much but hey, i might get lucky!

Edited by brother_david

Not a Nissan I know but I finally picked up my new toy this week. It's set up for gravel, and that will be its main duty but also came with a set of new 048's so will do some tarmac stuff too (LAkeside, Mt Cotton, Morgan Park, Willowbank). I just have to reverse everything I know about driving cars and learn the wrongness of front wheel drive

post-266-1269032432_thumb.jpg

A friend has an Integra and Civiv that he rallies out of Newcaslte. (same model Civic) Jad to sit back and laugh the first time he ran the Civic, it was completely std except for stripped interior and safety gear...he ran it for giggles and testing purposes and was already several seconds quicker then his off its head customg VR6 powerd earlier model Golf with everything done to it...std it was quicker. That was at a section of bush that is ou the back of Newcastle where his car club runs rally stages.... So, they are a brilliant thing std and amazingly good with some basic mods

Yeh this is the ex Denise Collins ARC Recce car. SiR Civic running the 1.6 Vtec (sik Uleh - feel the vtec PoWahhhhh!). Brakes are pretty stock and it has Bilstein coilovers. LSD and CR box so should be reasonably quick. In the right hands it will take it to a few of the AWD turbo boys, but in my hands I'll be happy to finish anywhere in the front half of the field.

Wasn't a light blue golf your friend ran was it? I remember racing against a guy back when I lived down that way - his name escapes me now (this was in the late 90's)

Middle aged guy, really chatty and an absolute legend of a guy, nothing too hard or too much trouble.

Haha you've just described 50% of rally tragics.

Nah, the guy I'm thinking of was fairly young - early 20's IIRC. I think he ditched the Golf and bought a GTI Pulsar (not the GTIR), but that's about when I lost touch with him. I stopped rallying down that way in about 2000.

Some time back I showed a link to a build thread of a mate's old E30 M3 in Europe. You may remember it was his 'Ring lapper and he blew the engine and a fellow bought it there and then on the back of a tilt tray. Well it's complete now and I gotta say, it's superb.

http://opentrack.tqhq.ee/forum/viewtopic.p...=477&page=8

I just want a car. I looked at what 300k buys you here in Singapore on the weekend...the answer is not as much as it should! :ermm: I just want something to punt around in, anything, please ... But an E30 M3 woudl be awesome :)

just buy the 32 GTR troy. you know you want it!

I spend part of Sunday looking into whether it can be imported here...and no. But i have found a workshop that will sell me a car and guaranteed to buy it back at about the same price less a bit of depreciation. They have plenty of Silvias so looking into that at the moment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...