Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone notice when first starting up, most times for me, and when the initial rev occurs a rattle type sound?? (hope that is a good description!)

Also as mosoto stated about when in idle there is a slight rattling occuring, you can here this on the outside on the drivers side?? (sounds like a flywheel type sound I suppose)

First start up?..yes..same here...no issue with that, as it happens so rarely, and certainly doesn't mean impending doom. (I've also heard it on other V35's)....oh, I think it's more of a bumpety bump, minus the lower frequencies.

That farking 'idle' rattle/ticking??....I got a new gearbox..(for lots of other reasons).....all good now....I believe that particular noise has to do more with the crazy/ over engineered flywheel the 35's have......inspect/look at a stock one if you ever get the chance....way too much going on with that design.!!

Yeah yeah I think I know what you are talking about!...

A very slight rattling noise that is over in less than 2 seconds? Sounds like something from the gearbox.

Only occasionally comes out during the first movement of the day, even though I warm up my car before moving off....

Only occasionally comes out during the first movement of the day

That's called a fart............... :closedeyes:

but seriously as spit said, it's more a knocking than a rattle. Sounds like the tappet noise you get in an old holden. It has been attrributed to the flywheel on Gdriver forums as well which makes sense given mine does not go away, hot or cold.

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok!!

Tonight disarmed my car, got in, and due to force of habit I pushed the drivers side lock latch so that both doors would lock, and I noticed that the passenger side latch did not move! pressing the central locking button made no difference. If I manually push the latch it feels as if it is not catching (if it is suppose to) and the door will lock, if I then either unlock with the drivers side latch or central locking button the passenger side latch will unlock fine, just not with my side latch or locking button.

Anyone seen this before? is it something I can look at myself by removing the door trim?

(Also freakishly the BOSE CD player was just going through all the CDs as if they weren't in there!! but now seems ok! :))

Edited by Pulp

my problems......

1. my bose cd player is goneskies. wont read any cds. solution? i got chris to put an ipod cable so now i can listen to ipod. this will tie me over for 1 yr or so until i decide to get an aftermarket stereo system. its not a priority right now, as i think the stock BOSE system does an ok job.

2. The paint is weak as anything. These cars scratch very easily! i have a few scratches here and there which i will get taken care of when i get my bodykit put on, i might go and respray the whole car at the same time.

3. The leather on my drivers side seat, where it meets the plastic on the right hand side near the lever to make the seat lean forward so people can get in the back.......... it has started to crack. I plan to retrim the seats too so i really dont care, want to get some better leather trim put in the car.

4. Rear Axel Click - this started happening on my car but i took the TSB to pro concept in west ryde and Joshua there fixed it for me. no more rear click!

Thats all my problems i have had so far

Ok!!

Tonight disarmed my car, got in, and due to force of habit I pushed the drivers side lock latch so that both doors would lock, and I noticed that the passenger side latch did not move! pressing the central locking button made no difference. If I manually push the latch it feels as if it is not catching (if it is suppose to) and the door will lock, if I then either unlock with the drivers side latch or central locking button the passenger side latch will unlock fine, just not with my side latch or locking button.

Anyone seen this before? is it something I can look at myself by removing the door trim?

(Also freakishly the BOSE CD player was just going through all the CDs as if they weren't in there!! but now seems ok! :P )

actuator time. I have a few on order if you need one.

I've had the same problem with my driver's side door not locking automatically.

When Chris comes down to Melbourne again in August to install my alarm, he will fix that for me too, it's a little expensive to get it all replaced, but will need to be done!!!

actuator time. I have a few on order if you need one.

It started working all day today! :)

I really hope it doesn't keep happening cause I can't afford to spend anymore $$ for a while!

Also if I really had to I'd probably use my extended warranty to do so. I wonder if they will still cover it if I say I can get the part?? hmm!

has anyone had any issues with the auto motor on the drivers seat not working when you flip the seat? otherwise the seat works.

just looking at a car at the moment and I know I need passengers window motor and possibly the central locking is gone if its no the remote/key battery.

Edited by crumbly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...