Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've done several search's using different terms and could not locate an answer, just wondering has anyone with an R34 with Xenon's removed the casing and managed to clean the inside of the headlight cover to remove the gas discharge residue? Or is there another way? I had a look at the car today and there is several bolts connecting the whole headlight to the front bumper and also to the body. Then there is also some clips but they come off really easy but couldn't get the "back" half of the case off... My lights are starting to look really shocking almost as bad as the R33's get after a while with the yellow residue on theres and would like to clean the inside but need some help on how to remove or do it.

If you need a pic let me know and ill take one to better explain what i can't in words lol.

Drew.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177795-cleaning-r34-xenon-headlights/
Share on other sites

if you mean cleaning the inside of the plastic, you need to take apart the headlight assembly, heat it in an oven and then pry it open. Can get bvery sticky.

And then after u cleaned them, you put it back together and then heat it up again...

MAKE SURE YOU READ WHAT Degree you have to set it at and for how long, as i have not performed this yet.

  • 1 year later...

as gohan said, it depends how bad the yellowing is.

i rubbed my outside so much, there wasn't any yellow coming off on the rag and there still yellow left which i assume is in the insides.

not gonna bother opening the headlights up to clean it, might damage it so just leave it as it is.

a friend gave me some cleaner from MEguires to clean the headlights with, I thought my lights were in pretty good condition before but now they look brand new except there is a tiny bit of something on the inside of one but its not really noticeable. I wanted to oven my headlights thinking the prob was on the inside, but the prob was mainly the outside. The cleaner cost $20 and out of 100mL we did 6 head lights and probably used about 6 mL, the tube will last about 100ish cars lol thats 10cents per headlight lol and the car looks amazing now. I do recomend this before risk melting your very very expensive headlights

how do you guys know it's on the inside? if you're just referring to yellowing, try polishing the outside first before cranking the oven up

+1 to this comment. I thought majority fogging was on the inside, however i was wrong most of the fogging is on the outside (however there is very minor fogging on the inside - not worth pulling the headlights apart IMO).

Clean the headlights the best you can with normal car wash - make sure there is no grit left over.

Get a clean soft cloth and use Meguiars PlastiX (non gel toothpaste also works a treat too :P ) and rub clean the headlights.

Hope this helps.

I think he is talking about the HID discharge. In which case its definitely on the inside. Mine started off quite good, but have been getting worse and worse. Mine need the inside of the lense to be cleaned, however im not comfortable doing it with an oven. Isnt a heat gun what is used to heat the glue up again?

Any who I think NOVUS here in town offers to clean the inside of the lights, however Im yet to see their work or be confident enough in them. Therefore, I will be attempting to clean my lights myself, at some stage. But I dont think ill be using an oven

Yeah its definitely on the inside of lights, discharge from Xenon's..... yep car has a STD but not ashamed as i love the bright light it gives off lol.

Yeah yet to hear, see a good way of cleaning without possibly stuffing up $1000 or nearabouts headlights.

PlastiX is awsome...use that stuff aswell...and yes u do have to do it hard and long to get all of it off..but the discharge Lanky is talking about is def inside....ive got the same stuff on the inside of my left xenon...i want to take it apart...but once again trust issues.....my mate is part of the water cooled (VW) club and they told him to do the same thing...chuck the headlights into the oven or even microwave :S (i know. WTF - MICROWAVE!!) and it will melt the plastic just enough to pop it off....but i dont think the VW headlights are as expensive as our precious xenons...but yea...moral of the story..it worked for him..but not game enough to try it

Oven .. wtf .. microwave!! ??

Omg, im not in the right state of mind to chuck my xenons in the microwave lols.

My missz is gonna' be like " wtf you doin ! .. get that shitt outta there!! "

:banana: ..

How much does this bloke in sydney charge to clean the inside ?

Anyone find any of his work ?

MRXTCZ

  • 1 year later...

Bit of a late reply, but If its yellowing of the headlight use some autosol ( yes metal polish ) worked wonders on my 33, as for the inside, they are a pain in the a$$ to clean. In the oven to loosen the black goo, and pry them open.

Cheers

  • 8 months later...

did both my lights last night. undone the little clips and two little screws.

put oven on 100 degrees and just kept checking till it got hot and came apart easy.

cleaned them & fixed my park lights coz they had fallen apart inside.

then back on 100 degrees for 15 20 mins then they went together really easy and replaced the clips and screws.

easy done :D

Edited by DJ-DRIFT
  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...

When i had my soarers i used the oven trick to clean the inside of my lights after cleaning the outside. Now With my R34 i have to do the same. I have cleaned the outside with a product i'm sure most of you have heard, it's called glassylite, and is available from Auto 1 for usually $40. But unfortunately even though i did get most of the oxidisation off, there was still quite a bit of yellow inside the light. So back to the oven it is, although i'm not that keen as last time i didn't seal the light properly and it leaked. And the price of these Xenon lights.. i really don't want to stuff it up...

And also that they go together EASY

so the full deal...

Heat oven to 100 degrees

Put a flat tray in the oven for the light to sit on, so there are no grill's or raised bits of the oven touching the light in one spot where it can damage/melt (make sure light is evenly placed in the oven/heat is not going to one spot)

Make sure no rubber seal or any meltable bit is touching a hot part of the oven so you do not damage the area. The plastic of the light surround is made of thermoplastic, it will not be even close to melting at this temp, just make sure you do not concentrate the heat on any vunerable part

leave in for 10 min at least (I tried at 85 degrees for 15 min; it does not activate the goop, must be at 100+ for the glue to become soft)

pull apart from one side and lever off all the way to the other side, this is probably the hardest part, if it is not pulling apart easily leave it in the oven longer, once the goop is at the right temp it will move

After both pieces are seperated..

I would REALLY reccomend using a tool to move/rearrange any goop which has pulled out now WHILE IT IS HOT, if you place it all back in line with the seal now it will stick back together naturally (basically the glue can become very messy and stringy like mozzarella but no where near as bad, clean up the strings NOW while its still soft)

Clean inside of the light and fix whatever else is screwed (my lights like many others will find have been de-xenoned by complience for ADR [because the xenon was too bright]... yay... so crappy h-bulbs were fitted instead of the v.pricy xenon bulbs and the ballast setup [and as result the wiring for the stock balast has been butchered and balast gone]... I have not completed the restoration back to xenon yet but will soon, apparently the kit to go for is bosche HID kit for D2R fittings [D2R is the code of the xenon fitting/plug used in the light] )

If you clean it all up sweet the light will glue back together very easily, it presses together into the seams with minimal force

Just heat both parts back up to 100 and push together till it has sealed, have the 5 clips and 2 screws ready to put in while still warm, I had no issues at all with this part, prep of the seams/glue will make it go straight in

hope this helps, will update when I return the light back to proper power/bosche kit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
    • The stock manifold is "mostly" divided. The divider actually has a notch cut out of it where it would meet the divider on a twin scroll housing. I have no idea why. But whatever the reason, it would cause some cross talk when used with a twin scroll housing. People do put twin scroll housings onto that manifold. But I'm of the opinion that proper twin scroll internal gating is...not really possible at this scale. You'd be throwing good effort (ie $$) after bad, when you really should be doing something else. Notwithstanding that.... I am not sure what the idea that you are floating has to do with the difference in comp cover position caused by the highflow using a shorter length core than the stock Hitachi one. Can you clarify what you meant?
    • Majority of regulars are > 30. We all act at least 50. Definitely not friendly as we're all grumpy. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...