Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think from memory i have seen vanilla gt28rs's from $1300 trade price

which is very resonable imho compared to hks spec gtrs's

not sure on exact differences, one would assume its not hks spec compressor/wheel options but the same all in all

the vanilla GT28RS's do not have a T3 housing (afaik) so you need to get the nissan housing machined to suit and get the correct oil water lines etc supplied to fit.

the HKS come with the HKS T3 housing and all oil and water lines, elbows etc so a full bolt on kit. more money but it works out of the box.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Highflow is a word that is often too loosely thrown around.

If you have a look at Ben|1981's troubles with his highflow, you'll know exactly what I mean.

I've ripped out numerous highflows from various cars that have just been totally crap for lack of a better word.

A highflow is not a highflow.

I mean, hell, if you want a crap highflow, give me your turbo, i'll get it machined, and put a set of wheels on and balance it.

What is important though is the research that goes into a combination which doesn't surge, makes good power, and has good response (wanting the world really).

That is something that I believe that GCG and precision turbos have hit the nail on the head :)

How much is the cheapest HKS upgrade?

2nd hand you can get the HKS 2535 that 1400r is trying to sell on page 1 of this thread :P

Great turbo for around the 250rwkws mark

If new, the HKS GT-RS is around $2300 (i think?) for a complete kit deilvered thru nengun/greenline etc...

The whole "Hi Flow" issue is a huge snake pit , for the uninitiated there's a few things that you need to understand before you go for the tools/wallet/seller .

Its very difficult (at times impossible) to find a turbocharger that will bolt up to an essentially std engine and give all the nice low down production style characteristics with more of the same from the mid range up . To expect to do so is unrealistic , the manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to make production cars easy to drive in the 1-3500 rev range because thats where the majority of them spend most of their time .

"Hi Flow" turbos have two major problems being fitting convenience and cost , actually another is dependent on the supplier knowing what works and what engines actually like/need .

If the turbo won't bolt up its useless and IMO things like T28/T3 adapter plates particularly on an I6 are worthless . Too many manifold runners to merge into a single T28 turbine housing inlet . All sorts of silly things have been done with non native turbine housings where the priority was just getting the thing to bolt up to the exhaust manifold . The turbine and its housing must be a workable combination or the whole effort will be compromised and sometimes pointless . Its absolutely wrong to think that that any turbo is better than no turbo .

So firstly the exhaust housing has to fit the desired exhaust manifold and the outlet the exhaust pipe . Secondly the housing has to be a workable match with its turbine wheel/shaft . Thirdly the compressor housing has to clear the exhaust manifold and everything else in the general vicinity , and have enough room for its inlet/outlet plumbing . Fourth , the compressor needs to be one thats capable of being driven properly by the turbine so it provides enough wind without placing any extra avoidable drive loads on the turbine .

In a perfect world a Hi Flow turbo will fit exactly the same as the std one does with all the std plumbing fittings for exhaust in/out - oil in/out - water in/out - air in/out .

Cost , no properly designed and manufactured turbocharger is cheap . Someone somewhere had to pay to for it . The materials used in petrol engine turbos has to have high temperature resistant properties to be long term reliable and these are not cheap .

Often OEM turbos use unique parts ie not from a generic range of components so to make incremental alterations is not possible without custom castings ie HKS's exhaust housings / compressor housings . Anything not made in quantities particularly for high volume OEM apps is going to be expensive . This is part of the reason why turbo kits from the aftermarket like again HKS are expensive , they had to do all the costly development work so that the performance result is there and that the kit fits together quickly and easily .

Enter the backyard Hi Flow turbo . This is a very grey area where the turbo is often a bitzer and alterations were made purely to 1) make it bolt together and 2) bolt to the engine . Almost always the compromises to get it on the donk damage its real world performance because the cost of doing it properly is beyond what a backyardies mates will pay .

Gotta train to catch , cheers A .

Thanks everyone for all your input, and it is all good to suggest to get after market turbos, however maintaining stock looking turbo and the true bolt on feature is important for me also the response and as it has been said a high flow provides all 3 on monday i will call around for some prices and post results here for other to see. Thanks for all your input again and keep the places coming so far we have GCG, mtq turbos and precision turbos.

MTQ r all over the country... Used to be Dynamic turbo's.... Can't remember what suburb they used to be in in Sydney now, probabaly SW suburbs as I used to drive past them on the way to Villawood. I am going to call MTQ on monday and get some prices on hi flowing a 33 turbo. I also want more power than stock on about 10psi plus maintain the heatshield and current exhaust and cooler piping etc. Hi Flows back in the day used to be pretty unreliable IIRC but now a days its as good as a rebuild plus u get that extra :D.

Liam

I am about to hiflow my RB25 turbo along the lines of a mod that has been done since almost the begining of this forum.

It costs about $400.

Retains the factory ball bearing cartridge.

Gives you around 250rwkw with an aggressive mid range (more if you do some further mods). And at low boost.

Retains the ceramic wheel keeping the rapid response but, modifications you carry out prevent the failure of it.

Dyno graph of the original R33 GTST with this turbo on page 1.

fordyr31 you in sydney and are interested also maybe we can organise both of them get sent to mtq and maybe get a better deal hopefully worth asking anyway isnt it.

Nah mate i'm in Melbourne now.. I used to live in Sydney, grew up there but moved to Melb.. I would be interested but wouldnt be worth the effort of going interstate when i have an MTQ 10 mins from work. Could be the flagships in each state tho for this forum...... maybe..........

Liam

I am about to hiflow my RB25 turbo along the lines of a mod that has been done since almost the begining of this forum.

It costs about $400.

Retains the factory ball bearing cartridge.

Gives you around 250rwkw with an aggressive mid range (more if you do some further mods). And at low boost.

Retains the ceramic wheel keeping the rapid response but, modifications you carry out prevent the failure of it.

Dyno graph of the original R33 GTST with this turbo on page 1.

whats this mod you speak of?

so what are the going prices for high flows then

gcg-$1950

precision.......1500???

mtq??????

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

my tuners inconjunction with another well known turbo vendor in melb have developed a great hi-flo which I have now been using for over a year. I can say it has great response with ok power output...what I was looking for. You can PM me for more info, we dont like to advertise and by the rate of other owners in Vic buying these hi-flos they dont need to. He is a recent sample running 1.2 bar when i installed my cam gears:

post-27030-1185696778_thumb.jpg

I finally found the thread I was looking for about the DIY hiflow, saves me explaining it. Worth a sticky I think?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=vq30+turbo

top thread...

too much trouble for me but comes on hard thats fro sure...mines bad enough to drive, that would be hella crazy...

Anyone can disassemble, build or modify a turbo, after all how many parts is it comprised of and what tools do you need?

BUT not everyone has a $50 thousand dollar state of the art balancing rig and the knowhow to configure the components to give the characteristics you want or to put it back together so it does not have problems.

Kyp at ATP - Advanced Turbo Performance had the first RB into the 12's and I think the 11's as well many years ago and seems to be in this position.

Dont bother calling if you want his expertise for nothing though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...