Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from memory i think the torque is 100ft/lbs for headstuds. and i dont recall there ever being any problems with stud length in the head. Only problems with studs for the mains for the three long ones which you need to use some out of a different motor vg30 or something which you use two washers on. Hopefully im pretty close to being accurate, if not surely someone else will clear it up.

its bloudy 100ft/lbs if you use oil...and its 79ft/lbs if you use their moly grease.

that is from arp.

that wasnt supposed to sound rude...so dont get wrong idea.

Edited by r33_racer
its bloudy 100ft/lbs if you use oil...and its 79ft/lbs if you use their moly grease.

that is from arp.

that wasnt supposed to sound rude...so dont get wrong idea.

Thanks Micheal, Its just that on the back of the box they give 3 differnt torques for 3 different tensiles, but how do you know what tensile you got, then in the box they put a paper that says 70ftlb i think.

  • 9 months later...

my builder told me today that we cant use all 14 arp headstuds. Apparenty the two for the middle of the head will cause oil gallery issues. So we going to opt to replace them with two standard ones instead. Has anyone used all 14 headstuds? This is for a NEO head onto a rb30 block. Im abit concerned as we going to push 2bar of t04z and NOS.

Edited by drgnball34
  • 4 months later...

I bought my set the other week and im not too sure on this but do you use the allen key at the top of each stud to put them into the block and then torque them up or just leave them hand tight and do all the torqing from the top end once the head is on? May sound stupid but I dont want to f**k this up!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...