Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok just bought a r32 gtst 4 door my first turbo car, was just wondering a couple of things

1. what are the disadvantages of running higher boost without a front mount, will get one soon but don't have the coin atm

2. how much boost can the factory BOV handle ??

3. how much boost could i run with this stock set up???

any help would be appreciated

Edited by G-Money
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180951-r32-gtst-questions/
Share on other sites

Its not a matter of how much boost the factory BOV can handle its how much the factory turbo can handle.

The turbo's are ceramic and realistically, with a front mount the most boost you would want to run constantly is 13psi. But be warned that gauges are often inaccurate whereas a dyno will give you a real boost reading.

Running 13psi daily without a front mount can be done but you are quite likely to be reducing the life of your turbo and you should be turbo timing the car. Either way change your oil every 5,000km!

edit - Some people may be happy to run higher boost than this as a replacement turbo is not awfully expensive and it does present an opportunity to upgrade it, but to each his own.

Edited by r32line

You'll get close enough to 200 on the stocky...

just need a bunch of other shit.

turbo back exhaust, pod with cold air box, fmic, new computer or piggyback fuel doovalacky, 13 pounds and a good tuner

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

I love budget builds..

1.) R34 stock side mounted intercooler = $150 + $50 to mod it so that the inlet and outlet match the stock R32 one.

2.) GTR fuel pump - $150

3.) Stock RB25 turbo - $400

4.) Xforce Mild steel, turbo back exhaust - $700

5.) TurboTech manual boost controller - $40

6.) Case of beer to CEFFIE from these forums to remap your stock ECU - $50 :P

That will have you at about 190-200rwkw and will have cost you about $1500 - $2K

then you will need decent tyres and suspension setup to use the new found power.

My RB20 is making ~250rwhp @ 12psi untuned (but a bit lean due to old pump), currently has the following:

RB25 turbo - $300

3" front pipe - $30

"hiflow" 3" cat - $20

Greddy Profec B spec2 - was a b'day present but you can get them new for about $350-400 or you can fork out a little more for a blitz. I previously had a $30 turbotech boost T which worked fine.

Xforce split dump pipe (came with car)

2 3/4" cat back (came with car)

Chinaspec front mount (came with the car)

Got a Bosch 044 pump sitting here waiting to go in and have one of CEFFIE's remapped chips on the way. We'll see how that goes and might put an SAFC in to smooth things out a little more. Hoping to get close to 280rwhp with a little more boost out of this RB20 with minimal $_$ spent as I'd rather spend the big $_$ on an RB25 when the 20 finally dies :D

Keep an eye out on the forums, I picked up the "hiflow" cat, front pipe and turbo off local people from this forum :P

ok just bought a r32 gtst 4 door my first turbo car, was just wondering a couple of things

1. what are the disadvantages of running higher boost without a front mount, will get one soon but don't have the coin atm

2. how much boost can the factory BOV handle ??

3. how much boost could i run with this stock set up???

any help would be appreciated

Get a FMIC setup, which is about $345 from JUST JAP, plus delivery.

Factory BOV is fine for what ever boost you want to run on the street. People are running up to 19psi on standard BOV.

I'd say no more than about 13 - 14psi on standard turbo.

That should be enough to have some fun, and reliably.

Dont forget to get a turbo back 3" exhaust as well, that will help with power/flow/response.

A GTR pump wouldnt be a bad investment either, I paid $60 for mine delivered, and it was in perfect working order.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu

how long is a piece of string?

generally 200 ish rwkw.. but like everything it all depends on how you drive!

I had 225 rwkw and drifted my 32 at every track event and no box failures. yert some mates of mine blow 20 boxes with organic clutches and 160 rwkw....

You'll get close enough to 200 on the stocky...

just need a bunch of other shit.

turbo back exhaust, pod with cold air box, fmic, new computer or piggyback fuel doovalacky, 13 pounds and a good tuner

Would SAFCII suffice as a "piggyback" I have all of the above inc. standard r33 turbo and stock ecu. Not to sure on power figure? Just wanting to see if it would be a cheaper alternative to going a PFC. Was thinking around 160rwkw

thanx guys thats really helpful

Generally there is a usefully large amount of gear that can be taken from either the RB25's or the 26's & fitted to the 20's.

Off the GT-R's fuel pumps have been mentioned (Got one for sale as it happens) but also injectors with suitable mods fit, as do the cams & if you are handy even GT-R intercoolers can be made to fit.

From the RB25's the turbo is the most usefull component, as mentioned.

Edited by djr81

25 turbo is the single best bang for buck upgrade you can do to the RB20. As for the gearbox, not sure about the auto's, I'm going to put a 25 engine in front of my 20 box and see how long it lasts. My mates 25/30 commodore was running a 20 box for about 6 months (because it had an RB20 in it before the 25/30) making 490rwhp, it eventually snapped 3rd gear in a big way.. loaded it up in 3rd from low revs and when it hit boost it went BANG! Depends on driving style I guess, I tend to abuse my cars a bit more than him :rofl:

Would SAFCII suffice as a "piggyback" I have all of the above inc. standard r33 turbo and stock ecu. Not to sure on power figure? Just wanting to see if it would be a cheaper alternative to going a PFC. Was thinking around 160rwkw

SAFC II is a piggy back fuel computer.

If your chasing about 210rwkw, then the SAFC II will do the job. Once you need to upgrade the stock injectors to after market, the SAFC II will becoming useless as they cant support after market injectors with a higher flow rating.

Around 200 - 220rwkw the stock injectors will max out on RB20. Thats a rough figure, as results on the forums vary.

With the following mods;

RB25 turbo

Intercooler

3" turbo back exhaust

GTR/WALBRO/BOSCH 040 fuel pump

SAFC II + tune

Power = 175 - 190rwkw

On about 14psi that should get you about 180rwkw, but you wouldn't want to push that stock RB25 turbo anymore, but if you were to, no more than 15 -16psi max.

You should be able to get 160rwkw on the above mods, running stock RB20 turbo. :D

I also bought an SAFC II for my R32, and have just purchased cooler piping and a cooler. Once my compliance gets done, I will buy an after market turbo depending on funds, if not then a RB25 turbo.

Already have a GTR fuel pump in there, so will install the SAFC II my self and get it tuned by something.. hoping for anything from 180 - 200rwkw depending on my turbo choice.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu

You'll probably notice your stock bov start to leak at about 14psi. Just get a second hand GTR bov and put that in. Can handle more than you would probably want, but it just doesn't have the 'psshhh' sound some people want.

There's been a few people on these forums that have got over the 200rwkw mark with the stock rb20 injectors. It just all depends on the tune/tuner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...