Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seems alot of ppl are having dramas with these manifolds, i put mine on about year and half ago... took few days, didnt even use new gaskets and never even got it shaved. hasnt leaked and still going strong lol

even came with every bolt i needed to bolt it all on + vacum fittings.

keep at it should all work out in the end.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Zebra , any chance of a pic of where the bleed valve is . I'm interested to know if a mount could be fabbed to fit the knock off manifold to mount the bleed valve conveniently .

I was looking at one on an R33 yesterday and I'm also interested to see if the plenum inlet could be flange modified to take the std TB and so leave room for the std washer tank .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
Anyone else done the install without blocking up the pipe coming out of the thermostat housing?

Look two pages back :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4333536

Edited by WilYawn
Hi Zebra , any chance of a pic of where the bleed valve is . I'm interested to know if a mount could be fabbed to fit the knock off manifold to mount the bleed valve conveniently .

I was looking at one on an R33 yesterday and I'm also interested to see if the plenum inlet could be flange modified to take the std TB and so leave room for the std washer tank .

Cheers A .

there are adapaters you can buy for about $90 to bolt on the factory TB.

also if you run a 90 degree silicon bend of the TB and down thru your usual intercooler hole. you can retain your washer bottle..

its all so very simple.

if you look around for the greddy instructions in pdf, you will see they remove absolutely everything water hose wise and run a hose from the nipple at the back on the heater hose to the nipple at the front near the thermostat

pretty easy

  • 3 weeks later...

I bought a greddy style plenum KIT from vulture motorsport. Cost me $565 deliviered. It also came with a throttle body adapter and all the other shit you need to do this. Was a prick of a job. Im not a mechanic but like to do my own work so I had a crack at it. I Was pretty much stumped with it half on until I found this thread. Awesome write up :P

I run a 90 deg silicone bend straight off the throttle body. I had to cut the existing hole a bit more to make it work. Got a new lenth of straight intercooler pipe and had a vaccum nipple for something on the Power fc and the AAC line fitting welded in. Because the washer bottle now didnt fit I took it to the plastice welders. They chopped the bottle in half, right beside the internal pumps and sealed it back up. It half the capacity of stock now but at least it isn't a defect and you still have enough water to wash the windescreen.

The tosser who owned my car before me cut up the stock plenum and put the throttle body to the front greddy wank style. It hurt tuning and I have NFI why it was done. Ill put up some before and after shots....

post-65433-1250164183_thumb.jpg

post-65433-1250164216_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...