Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i will be ordering a FF intake from Vulture Motorsport soon, takes standard TB (R33)and is available in Aus for a reasonable price, same intake gasket part number for R33/R34 so it SHOULD physically fit a NEO motor but may have other fitment issues on R34

this thread will be extremely useful when i buy a gtst. i can't stand the original plenum lol. i'm switching from a gtr to gtst. i know its a huge downgrade but i'm caught in financial trouble.

does his package comes with all the parts needed?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RB25-intake-manifold-R33-R34-Intake-plenum-RB25DET-/170775341630?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c300ea3e

Edited by Mingy
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thought id post some pics of my plenum.

Used a genuine Greddy plenum and Q45 throttle body had zero problem fitting after looking through this thread. I didnt flip the injectors or fpr (i think it looks neater), also ran the coolent lines through the throttle body.

3rd pic shows where i mounted the stock bov and 4th shows how i plumbed it back

Performance wise bit of a drop in the mid range, but made an extra 4kw more :cheers:

post-54283-0-07774000-1333606636_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-89289100-1333606651_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-03488000-1333606670_thumb.jpg

post-54283-0-73730500-1333606686_thumb.jpg

Thought id post some pics of my plenum.

Used a genuine Greddy plenum and Q45 throttle body had zero problem fitting after looking through this thread. I didnt flip the injectors or fpr (i think it looks neater), also ran the coolent lines through the throttle body.

3rd pic shows where i mounted the stock bov and 4th shows how i plumbed it back

Performance wise bit of a drop in the mid range, but made an extra 4kw more :cheers:

Great job man very neat!

How did you go about changing both the cam cover breather barbs to the single outlet 90 degree ? do they just push out?

  • 1 month later...

Ok so can anyone tell me what I should have plugged into the Vac nipples on the underside of the plenum?

Im thinking BOV, Rocker cover breather, FPR...... What am I missing?

Carbon Canister if you are still using it

And are you sure rocker cover breather was one of them?

Should be BOV, FPR, Carbon Canister, Boost gauge

EDIT: You must have been talking about the larger Nipple that goes to the PCV valve

Edited by 89CAL

Great job man very neat!

How did you go about changing both the cam cover breather barbs to the single outlet 90 degree ? do they just push out?

I changed mine around so it looked a bit neater using the stock fittings and the stock position plumbed into the intake pipe. I pulled the T fitting that points straight up and out as well out and used a bench grinder to shave it down enough so that it would fit into the cam cover, neatened it up before I put it in but thats basically what I did

heres what it looks like:

20120510_162549.jpg

so where exactly does that line that comes out the side of the rocker cover go? Also, when I got my rocker covers ceramic coated I think the guys took out the o-ring or whatever it was that was in there... is there anything else I can use to connect that line with the one way valve?

The line that comes out of the intake side of the rocker cover is the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. If you just have an empty hole there, then they have removed the whole thing and you will need to find another one. They are pretty small and basic but the setup wont work unless you have a working PCV valve in there

It goes to one of the nipples on the intake manifold (i got a bigger nipple with mine which is the right size for the hose needed to go PCV -> Manifold

yeah well I have still got the hose with the one way valve attached, but I think there was an o-ring or something in the hole before that held it in there. Maybe it broke when we were removing it? Anyone know where I can buy a new one?

  • 2 months later...

ATTENTION: DO NOT PM ME ABOUT "PICTURES NOT WORKING" OR asking me stupid fking questions (that are already answered in the thread) about this plenum install I did 5 years ago - using the words "lol cant werk out how to buy brass nipples dat fit aye" - If you can't read/comprehend - not my problem.

/signed: the cranky author of this thread who has rarely visited here in 3+ years.

ATTENTION: DO NOT PM ME ABOUT "PICTURES NOT WORKING" OR asking me stupid fking questions (that are already answered in the thread) about this plenum install I did 5 years ago - using the words "lol cant werk out how to buy brass nipples dat fit aye" - If you can't read/comprehend - not my problem.

/signed: the cranky author of this thread who has rarely visited here in 3+ years.

Yeah this is fair enough, the Guide (and the following pages) are more then enough to do the basic install. The rest of the stuff (like cooler piping, BOV location etc) need to be worked out on your own.

AFAIK Autobarn will sell you the fitting kit for these anyway, thats where mine is from and I got a bag full of bolts, nipples, joiners. Everything you need pretty much to put the plenum on

  • 1 year later...

Hi there, I'm new to this forum..I have a few issues with the plenum/injector seals! I have a top feed setup with top feed Bosch injectors. The plenum came with 6 little bosses for top feed injectors. I have put the o rings on these and put the o rings on the injectors! The metal bosses are loose as buggers! I have been told to buy gtr seals and get the metal collar on each injector machined to allow the seals to go into the plenum with the injectors. This also means I will have to shorten the fuel rail spacers lowering the height of he rail..is there any other way of fitting top feed injectors creating a seal?

Thanks for any info

Stef

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...