Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

Thought I might give an update on my Turbo removal. Took about 3.5 hours. This included spending about 30 minutes to remove one 10mm bolt holding the heat shield. Had to remove exhaust, tail shaft and transmission mount bolt so I was able to push engine/trans unit across to the right to allow removal of turbo. I was lucky to have the use of a two post hoist and 3/8 drive sockets whit swivel heads.

Priced a new unit from Nissan $1950 plus tax, two weeks delivery.

Precision Turbochargers Sydney approx $1400 yet to be confirmed.

What had the turbo done?

Exhaust turbine was still there but had lost some of its vanes. Bearings were seized also. I think this happened after the turbine damage, as once power was lost turbo could still be heard trying to boost for a couple of days.

Looking forward to refit later this week and more torque.

Muz

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey did a search of this thread..

On just japs website.. which oil filter is the genuine nissan item?? i keep having problems with ryco ones from supercheap and they aint that cheap..

http://www.justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=...on=0&page=2

its the S15 filter right? and v35 skyline?

Hey did a search of this thread..

On just japs website.. which oil filter is the genuine nissan item?? i keep having problems with ryco ones from supercheap and they aint that cheap..

http://www.justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=...on=0&page=2

its the S15 filter right? and v35 skyline?

Yep, same as VQ35 and SR engines.

You could go OEM for $20 OR you could go a Nismo filter for a little more :P

Edited by iamhe77
Hey did a search of this thread..

On just japs website.. which oil filter is the genuine nissan item?? i keep having problems with ryco ones from supercheap and they aint that cheap..

Can I ask what was wrong with the Ryco ones? I've used Ryco for as long as I can remember and throught they were half decent.

So the 'extra' right white dome is the fog light?

Confused... which is the one with the cold pack, and what exactly does the cold pack include?

Thanks guys, im getting s Stag soon and the one im looking at has the winking lights.

Red one on the right is the fog light.

Cold pack has heated front windscreen, a heater element in the air vent to heat up the air faster, heated side mirrors.

  • 2 weeks later...

The power and torque delivery of the VQ25DET is incredibly smooth there.

Some things I noted:

  • Boost starts becoming noticeable somewhere just before 2000rpm (as suspected)
  • The VQ35DE has more torque until 2000rpm where the VQ25DET smashes it (well, until the very top end).
  • Actually, all the others have more torque than the VQ25DET initially.
  • The VQ25DET has overall the most power and torque where it really counts (say 1500-3500rpm)

VQ25DET = awesomest! :banana:

  • 2 weeks later...

I have to add my point. Personally I don't believe that's a very good comparison if they have actually used a 350Z (Z33) car to go against a VQ25DET Stagea. I've driven both an auto 350Z and a PM35 and both cars delivers their power and torque differently. A PM35 is bloody quick off the mark, and surprisingly, I felt it was quicker than an auto 350Z. Why? The gearing on both cars are vastly different. The PM35 felt like it had a shorter gearing than the 350Z, making it spring off the mark better.

I've been surprised at how well a PM35 goes compared to an NM35. In city driving, I would actually prefer the naturally aspirated engine than a turbo. The moment you stomp on the gas of a PM35, it just shoots away. Sure the turbo NM35 will develop more power and torque at higher rpm than the VQ35DE, but it's that instant response of an n/a that I'm very impressed with.

And so much so the last 3 Stageas that we have sold recently have been PM35's. 2 of the buyers drove both the turbo and n/a cars and both decided the later model Stags drove better. The other buyer was from interstate.

But if you're after a Stag with mod potential, then the turbo wins hands down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
    • There are guys on Facebook under, Infiniti Owners Australia   https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1Z3RbPqx4k/?mibextid=wwXIfr What Whp are you after and I can help, and join this Q group in the states. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19A59cN3JR/?mibextid=wwXIfr
×
×
  • Create New...