Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Info

Brazen

By Brazen,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm amazed at the positive feedback everyone has about them; my experience was so shockingly different, I simply will not use anything they make.

Motul & Silkolene (Fuchs) are the only oils that go anywhere near my engines.

Edited by Daleo
  • Replies 2.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nickcorr
nickcorr

Skyline Registrations in Japan: Bodystyle/Engine 3.7 Coupe 2.5 Sedan 3.5 Sedan 3.7 Sedan 3.7 SUV________Total Market cars... 09_____________983_______3,398______20_______860_____1,601_________

andy65b
andy65b

Not a bad result..

And
And

Ok, guys from Moscow approached me today. They have a "demo" version ready, now they need a brave person in Perth who's got a car DVD based Xanai unit (M35 Stagea or Skyline up to 2005). This gotta

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

I'm amazed at the positive feedback everyone has about them; my experience was so shockingly different, I simply will not use anything they make.

Motul & Silkolene (Fuchs) are the only oils that go anywhere near my engines.

well what they make anymore.

the sougi is good. but obviously no more of that.. i got 2 bottles left lol

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I asked the guys at Autobarn if they had heard of Sougi, they hadn't even though they are one of the largest GW stockists for automotive. They told me the rep had said nothing about it and just stocked the shelf with the cheap crap. They rang Repco and Bursons for me to chase some up, they had never heard of it/stocked it either.

Great marketing GW. :thumbsup: I wonder why it never took off? hahahahahahahha

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

no i meant as in maybe 1kw less.. as its quality isnt up there with sougi..

Please don't say shit like that mate, it's embarrassing.

You simply can't judge an oil quality by power figures.

Sure, you can get a decent power loss by using an oil that is much too thick (see Sin, Penrite), but c'mon man, saying a 1kw drop in power could be expected because an oil is of near quality to another oil is like saying that my hands are warmer today because I wore my Rivers shoes instead of my sneakers.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I agree Scotty.

After all the raving people did about Sougi, they're literally on my doorstep so that's why I went there. This was ages ago too, long before it was discontinued.

I can't imagine why you would recommend a bargain basement oil (of the wrong weight) to a customer who is looking for a high performance product.

wht510 Experienced

wht510

Posted
Posted

Sometimes sales people will recommend products because they have a quota to make, or there's a deal if the sales person sells 10 of these they get one free.

I like Penrite products, because they always answer my technical questions with fact and engineered experiments. I like to try and support local product and Penrite have been Australian owned since 1926!

I have ran most of my motors using Penrite and the condition they are in (wear on bores etc. cam wear, big end bearing wear etc.) excellent condition.

Give MotoFluid in Bayswater VIC a call. They are a Penrite stockist and provide discount for bulk purchase (20L drum anyone?)

PLUS they are HEAVILY involved in motorsport including support club racing/sprints etc. One of the tech guys there (Ken) has had numerous Datsun 1600's and other non important cars :whistling:, and has a fair bit of experience with oils. Good bloke and has a vast amount of experience/knowledge with a no bullshit approach.

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted (edited)

Please don't say shit like that mate, it's embarrassing.

You simply can't judge an oil quality by power figures.

Sure, you can get a decent power loss by using an oil that is much too thick (see Sin, Penrite), but c'mon man, saying a 1kw drop in power could be expected because an oil is of near quality to another oil is like saying that my hands are warmer today because I wore my Rivers shoes instead of my sneakers.

I repeat: THIS IS WHAT THE "ENGINEERS" AT GW TOLD ME.

and also it is a fact that your body tempreture can rise or drop dependant on the shoes you wear. heat comes in through your feet and out your head. :nyaanyaa:

Edited by AaronNM35
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry mate, missed your reference to the "engineer".... especially going from when you typed;

no i meant as in maybe 1kw less.. as its quality isnt up there with sougi..

Fair enough though, can't believe how hard GW fail sometimes.

Dale, agree on Fuchs, I used the 5w40 Titan Super Syn a while ago and the car felt "more together" than when using Mobil 1.

It is a Group IV oil I believe and reasonably priced.

Edited by iamhe77
bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I havent used the Castrol, but someone on here or m35stagea.info called it cheap shit.

Im using Valvoline fully synthetic at the moment, seems fine, but when the free stash runs out Ill probably switch to Motul or Royal Purple, whatevers easier to get.

My local Repco have Motul 300v but theres bugger all discount and Im pretty sure I have to buy 4+1 litres...

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted (edited)

I used castrol 5-30 in my SR when it was running E85 making 275rwkw on 17psi and found it fine on the track. Only ever ran it during winter with a nsimo thermostat keeping the engine on a max of 72deg. Currently only use Shell helix 10w-40 semi syn in it with no dramas at all. Not sure how it would go during summer running at normal temps, it's also near on the factory grade too.

The CTS drift 180sx running over 350rwkw was running castrol 10w-60 so it can't be all bad.

My m35 will be delivered to my mates compliance shop tomorrow (earlier than I expected) for compliance so will go shopping this weekend for parts to do a service.

Edited by slippylotion
bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Eeek. I'll rather use castrol then valvoline!

Why? I checked with them and its as high a grade as the Castrol etc.

The stuff Im using is left over from a supply Valvoline gave dad for his Jackaroo when he was competing in the Safari rallies. Seemed alright for that, and it was exposed to all kinds of dirt and crap. Engine is still fine.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Eeek. I'll rather use castrol then valvoline!

Actually the Valvoline Syn Power 5w40 is a pretty good oil.

Not the best synthetic you can get, but you could do a lot worse.

The only Castrol that you'd touch is the German Castrol (labelled "Syntech 0w30"), but I think that as as scarce as Sougi S6000 these days.

wht510 Experienced

wht510

Posted
Posted

lol, marketing.

The Nulon "fully synthetic" oils are a mineral base. Not a good oil at all. :nuke::nuke::nuke:

Most oils which say "Fully Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. I think only certain oils (such as motuls 300V for example) state they are 100% synthetic or 100% ester based.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Most oils which say "Fully Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. I think only certain oils (such as motuls 300V for example) state they are 100% synthetic or 100% ester based.

Yes, I think that the court ruling was that if the oil is a minimum of 70% synthetic, it could be marketed as "fully synthetic".

There are more than Motul though... Redline and Amsoil are two that I can think of immediately that are 100% synthetic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...