Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I am looking into M35's atm (something like an AR-X). Only concern is fuel consumption and reliability! What sort of fuel consumption and reliability can I expect? (Assuming I dont thrash/bost all the the time and drive sedately). Can I expect problems such as, blown turbos, broken gearboxes, electrical problems? Would I be right in assuming that the running costs would be a fair bit higher than a local wagon/sedan? Sorry if the question seems vauge.

Edited by Dilan
hey guys,

I am looking into M35's atm (something like an AR-X). Only concern is fuel consumption and reliability! What sort of fuel consumption and reliability can I expect? (Assuming I dont thrash/bost all the the time and drive sedately). Can I expect problems such as, blown turbos, broken gearboxes, electrical problems? Would I be right in assuming that the running costs would be a fair bit higher than a local wagon/sedan? Sorry if the question seems vauge.

The fuel economy figures can be found earlier in this thread, please have a read, plenty of other info in this thread too!

The M35's a very reliable.

That said, they do have a ceramic wheel turbo which can let go if the exhaust does not flow well enough.

There are 2 that I know of on these boards that have had turbo's replaced (mine being one of them).

Running costs are generally very good.

I do service mine every 10,000kms and use expensive fluids, so I suppose in that respect they cost more (If I had a falcodore, I would not care what was put in it, but because I love my cars, I would never have a falcodore in the firs pace!).

You can have them serviced at a decent dealership if that is what you are inclined to do and they cost no more than a Maxima.

People seem to think that because it is an import, they cost more to run, and something I am trying to drill into my brother's head, but this is not the case... unless you are talking about weather deflectors!

Cheers for the reply. Yeah, while searching I came across the turbo problems the two of you had, had. My other major worry was about the gearbox being 'sealed for life'...this didnt go down too well on my old car at 150,000 clicks (so much for full service history :D ). I also didnt come across too many electrical problems that ppl have had, guess there aren't too many or they havent surfaced yet. It seems my conerns are not that common problems. Servicing (fluids, brakes etc) is something I can do, major repairs probably not. So in that respect I guess things shouldnt be too bad.

Edited by Dilan
Cheers for the reply. Yeah, while searching I came across the turbo problems the two of you had, had. My other major worry was about the gearbox being 'sealed for life'...this didnt go down too well on my old car at 150,000 clicks (so much for full service history :D ). I also didnt come across too many electrical problems that ppl have had, guess there aren't too many or they havent surfaced yet. It seems my conerns are not that common problems. Servicing (fluids, brakes etc) is something I can do, major repairs probably not. So in that respect I guess things shouldnt be too bad.

I wouldn't be overly concerned about the Gearbox. There are more Nissan's that have a similar setup than you would think.

I have just passed 140,000km's and the only drama has been the turbo/exhaust issue and the passenger wheel bearing (quickly replaced by a decent dealership).

Depends on what you want to do to it.

If you want to leave the car pretty stock (maybe add an exhaust), I don't think you will have many troubles. They are a really well put together car overall.

However, I would imagine that if want to go for say, 300awkw, you may find a few issues.

I would like to see 230-250awkw reliably out of mine at some point and don't think that is unreasonable.

Thing is, nobody has really pushed these things.

I think NRVOUS is "dipping his foot", as am I to some extent (albeit quite slowly) to see what these things can do.

I do think they have a fair amount of potential though.

hey guys,

I am looking into M35's atm (something like an AR-X). Only concern is fuel consumption and reliability! What sort of fuel consumption and reliability can I expect? (Assuming I dont thrash/bost all the the time and drive sedately). Can I expect problems such as, blown turbos, broken gearboxes, electrical problems? Would I be right in assuming that the running costs would be a fair bit higher than a local wagon/sedan? Sorry if the question seems vauge.

Fuel consumption with my M35 RS4 in brisbane is about 11.5-12L/100km daily - (thats including about 10-20% driving on motorways) - and 9.8L/100km on the open highway mostly sitting on 110km/h. Thats pretty close to the locally made wagons I'd say - and when you consider that my purchase price was also equivalent to a falcodore wagon of the same year/kms the only thing really that was more expensive is insurance, and only by about $350 a year. Fuel costs a little more because you need to use premium, but you end up with a MUCH better car for your money. Its not worth comparing these to a falcon or commodore. Either you want the cheapest car or the best car...thats all there is to it. Maybe I'm a little biased? but I dont think you can beat a stagea on value for money (in a wagon).

Provided you're a safe/responsible driver and dont have outrageous plans to modify it beyond its limits, I dont believe it would be much more expensive than a locally made wagon, and you end up with a much better car in my opinion.

My stagea is completely stock btw. :down:

I just drove 1500km over the last 2 days in my new 2001 ARX and it averaged 10.8 L/100km, however during the first 200km it was going through 12.4 L/100km while I was "learning" all about the new car ;) A/C on all the way - it's been hot in NSW/VIC this week!

My impressions:

Very comfortable - I did the whole trip by myself and didn't once get out of the car sore or overly tired. The leather was fine, although I haven't tried the cloth seats.

The tiptronic system seems to be a waste of time for the most part EXCEPT when cruising at 110km/h. I found that if I left it in "D", I just needed to flex my big toe and the revs would flare and it would take off - I often found myself doing 130 without even realising it. By putting it in tiptronic mode and leaving it in 5th I found the revs didn't rise as easily (torque converter locked up?) and it was much easier to maintain 110km/h. Tiptronic mode for driving hard? It just seemed too slow...too soft. It can sometimes take a few seconds to move up a gear, and I often found myself changing AGAIN because I thought the first change hadn't worked...

The ride - in my opinion - is fine. Sure, it moves around a little bit on big undulations, but I haven't come from a highly modified ride (like I expect many of you would have), so I found it to be comfortable but very sure-footed. I had originally planned on fitting some bilsteins after reading some info on here, but I really don't think it's worth it now.

I love it, and I'm sure the wife will enjoy driving it (when she gets a chance!).

Hey everyone,

I'm currently considering getting a Stagea M35, I'm booked in for a test drive tomorrow.

I wanted to post the pics and some details just to see if you guys think it's a good deal and I should take the plunge and go for it!

-----

2001

2.5 ltr Turbo RS-Four

53,000km

Display screen TV

Volt, Temp and Boost gauges

Sport exhaust

Dual sunroof

Factory bodykit

Arrive into Australia 3 weeks ago

Comes with 6 months rego

$19,000 not negotiable

---------

So what do you guys reckon?? Should I do it!!

Stephen

post-59561-1233187136_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233187208_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233187233_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233187260_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233187284_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233187312_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233187337_thumb.jpg

post-59561-1233188459_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bis-e Bee
wow they actually look pretty good in that red colour!

looks like its got an aero kit without front driving lights.

looks in good nick.

So I gather that is a thumbs up from you? :P

Good stuff, I will have to get a set of front driving lights!!

Anyone got the part number on hand? :)

Stephen

they are probably rare as hens teeth, and there is additional wiring and a extra switch and a relay next to the airbox (i have the driving lights :P) so it might be a pain in the ass to wire up.

anyway, if the car runs well and you think its worth the money go for it!

damn they look so much better with the black interior!

they are probably rare as hens teeth, and there is additional wiring and a extra switch and a relay next to the airbox (i have the driving lights :P ) so it might be a pain in the ass to wire up.

anyway, if the car runs well and you think its worth the money go for it!

damn they look so much better with the black interior!

Looks like a workshop can do the driving lights then :D

I've done some looking around on-line and this model with similar KM's is like $22000 +, so am I wrong in thinkiing $19000 is a bargain?

I just know it's going to drive awesome, better get my cheque book ready :)

Stephen

yeah private prices are a little lower than dealers. ive seen some other M35s for similar prices to yours. one was lower, but from the pics you could tell the front had been resprayed.

i take it your in NSW/sydney? youll have to come to a meet up one thursday night and show us all!

im sure a workshop could easily do the wiring. but youll need to find the lights to go in there first!

yeah private prices are a little lower than dealers. ive seen some other M35s for similar prices to yours. one was lower, but from the pics you could tell the front had been resprayed.

i take it your in NSW/sydney? youll have to come to a meet up one thursday night and show us all!

im sure a workshop could easily do the wiring. but youll need to find the lights to go in there first!

This is a dealer!!! But it looks immaculate, will have a good peek tomorrow and check it out.

As for the meet, most definatly. Do you guys do a different location every time or you have a fav spot?

Cheers

Stephen

Hey everyone,

I'm currently considering getting a Stagea M35, I'm booked in for a test drive tomorrow.

I wanted to post the pics and some details just to see if you guys think it's a good deal and I should take the plunge and go for it!

-----

2001

2.5 ltr Turbo RS-Four

53,000km

Display screen TV

Volt, Temp and Boost gauges

Sport exhaust

Dual sunroof

Factory bodykit

Arrive into Australia 3 weeks ago

Comes with 6 months rego

$19,000 not negotiable

---------

So what do you guys reckon?? Should I do it!!

Stephen

Looks Nice Stephen.

I was just looking at this one on Carpoint. (I like to have a look at what is around from time to time)

If it comes with a 12 month warranty, it would seem like a good deal.

They do look very nice in the red.

Check that the gauge cluster works properly. If one of the gauges is faulty, you will have to replace the entire cluster.

damn they look so much better with the black interior!

Yeah, but I think that the Black leather interior would definitely top the red off.

Still like those cloth seats... Very comfy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...