Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just installed my new nismo super coppermix clutch, and its got a very light pedal feel to it(i bought a nismo large slave), but its really on/off, i mean once its disengages, it just catches and goes, and i have to be several meters away from the car infront to make sure i dont hit it, its good for launching, but traffic is a bitc*, does this sound normal???, and anyway to make the clutch feel more progressive?

Just installed my new nismo super coppermix clutch, and its got a very light pedal feel to it(i bought a nismo large slave), but its really on/off, i mean once its disengages, it just catches and goes, and i have to be several meters away from the car infront to make sure i dont hit it, its good for launching, but traffic is a bitc*, does this sound normal???, and anyway to make the clutch feel more progressive?

normal as far as I know....mine is the same..u get used to it.

in the same boat....from stock clutch to twin plate....but doesnt take too long to get used to.....but its pretty embarasing stalling a gtr...

A friend of mine with a Nismo twin plate of some kind says all Skyline drivers should stall at least once every time they drive the car.

Man up people!

My OS twin is very aggressive, but I expected it to be. I just give it two quick blips before I take off to ensure enough revs with the lightened flywheel and off ya go. Interesting up hill in the wet, but apart from that it's all good :P

A friend of mine with a Nismo twin plate of some kind says all Skyline drivers should stall at least once every time they drive the car.

Lol. i used to have an OS twin plate and was quite pleased with myself if i made it somewhere without stalling. I was a happy boy when i went back to a single purely as i wasn't worried i was going to stall every time i pulled away. I think i've stalled less in the last year than i did in my best week with the twin plate.

Interesting..

I drove a mates OS twin and found the pedal lighter than my single and had a more progressive/smoother take up. Yes the take up was super quick and was easy to stall but I found it easier to drive than my at the time new 9puk Xtreme XHD.

As the 9puk got to half its life it was almost like a normal organic clutch in its feel where as the OS is still nice tight and grippy.

i actually went from a TS2A to a 9 puck XHD extreme :) After the twin plate the single was a joy to drive and was about the same weight as stock. Still doesn't slip on me and still nice to drive

I went from stock to HD organic then to XHD 9puk.

The XHD felt 2x the weight of the HD and the HD was basically the same as stock.

I'm very keen to see how this GTR exedy pressure plate stacks up as I believe its up around 1500kg vs the 1180kg of the XHD I bought back in late 04.

I went from stock to an os giken twin plate and stalled straight away. I got so used to it an loved it after a while.

Now i have a JIm Berry clutch of some sort and it's a single plate. I hate it after about 4 days of driving it. It's too light, it's too easy(sounds good but it ain't) to drive and i hate not having a lightened flywheel now. I feel like i'm driving my sisters charade. I have a feeling i'll be going back to a twin plate soon.

I'm looking at buying an ORC 709D.. what do you mean by menace?

well some people have it and reckon it's easy to drive. they reckon mine isn't installed correctly...

it's actually really light, but has a hair trigger - on or off.

it's only done about 1,000kms, so might get better with some time.

it can be slipped, but I don't get 'used' to it as it get driven about once or twice a month :)

you might like it...

Just installed my new nismo super coppermix clutch, and its got a very light pedal feel to it(i bought a nismo large slave), but its really on/off, i mean once its disengages, it just catches and goes, and i have to be several meters away from the car infront to make sure i dont hit it, its good for launching, but traffic is a bitc*, does this sound normal???, and anyway to make the clutch feel more progressive?

You will need at least 1000k's to break it in....

Then you will need to drive hard every time you see it playing up.

Most of us who use these clutches..whether it be Jim Berry or Nismo drive around in traffic

Once in a while you need to give them a hard time so they come good again.

In your case it is new...take it easy till you bed in your flywheel.

I have a Jim Berry one and I have problems with it when it is cold...bites quick like the way you are saying.

The worst problem is when I drive a standard car for a while then jump into mine...always end up stalling it

on take off the first two times.... :) ...but can't help it..the foot just comes up..not expecting that force.

lol good to see everyone has the same issues.

You only stall it cos you dont wanna look like a tool reving the car too hard, then u look like a tool for stalling it...but you get used ot it and then its fine.

Peak Hour is a bitch...I only drive it on the w/e anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...